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Thread: Surefire SOCOM stuck, FML...

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    Surefire SOCOM stuck, FML...

    I took a carbine class this weekend, and on the last day discovered my locking ring is stuck solid. Since I can't loosen the ring, I can't shoot it off. I've been told I should try soaking the mount in solvent, anyone have any other ideas?
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    Since it's probably carbon that has it stuck, try some carbon cutter like from Slip 2000 or the like. Keep in mind, strong chemicals can strip coatings, but it has to come off somehow.

    ETA: Also found this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ombiP14aFu8
    Last edited by straitR; 10-19-15 at 19:59.

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    Deleted.
    Last edited by scooter22; 10-19-15 at 20:10.

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    Quote Originally Posted by straitR View Post
    Since it's probably carbon that has it stuck, try some carbon cutter like from Slip 2000 or the like. Keep in mind, strong chemicals can strip coatings, but it has to come off somehow.

    ETA: Also found this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ombiP14aFu8
    I was gonna suggest trying a heat application, and saw this vid you shared. That's the route I'd try before solvents.

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    Quote Originally Posted by straitR View Post
    Since it's probably carbon that has it stuck, try some carbon cutter like from Slip 2000 or the like. Keep in mind, strong chemicals can strip coatings, but it has to come off somehow.

    ETA: Also found this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ombiP14aFu8
    I actually put a mag dump through it to try to loosen it as soon as I realized it was stuck but no joy. Seemed pretty hot (needed FR gloves to handle it) but maybe a torch is worth a try. I may also contact Surefire and see what they have to say.
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    If Slip doesn't work you could always try Kroil Oil.


    Give Garin the SF rep (Kudu22) a PM.
    "When governments fear the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny. The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson.

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    How many rounds did you put through it during the class?

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    900ish, took my can off twice on the first day (lunch and at the end) to keep it from locking up, but forgot my wire brush to clean the mount and just added some Fireclean to help.
    Last edited by kaltesherz; 10-20-15 at 13:53.
    PRAISE THE FALLEN
    SSG Kevin Roberts KIA 7-May-08
    1Lt Nick Dewhirst KIA 20-July-08
    Cpl Charles Gaffney KIA 24-Dec-08
    Spc Peter Courcy KIA 10-Feb-09
    PFC Jason Watson KIA 10-Feb-09

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    Quote Originally Posted by straitR View Post
    Thanks for sharing the video, using a butane torch is fine, but I'd be hesitant to follow his advice using a sanding block on the end mount for cleaning the muzzle device. Although the muzzle device is made from heat treated stainless, without knowing the specific surface hardness, using a sanding block may cause potential issues. The taper engagement surface and index notch are controlled dimensions. Once you've removed the DLC coating you'd could potentially be removing the substrate material. Using a sanding block a few times lightly polishing it up may not be an immediate cause for concern, but doing so repeatedly may eventually cause potential alignment issues or allow more blow back/carbon fouling to occur between the main suppressor body and locking ring collar at the BDC indexing tab location. It doesn't have to be white glove clean, your not going to eat off it.

    I've had my Surefire 7.62-RC lock up too when I was shooting multicalibers and let it cool down prior to removing it. If I remember correctly, it started out on an 7.62 OBR, then onto a Mk18 host, and then back to the OBR. The locking ring was carbon welded at the indexing tab location. The solution I found was removing the socket cap screw that retains the locking lever, and then using a strap wrench on the collar to shear the carbon weld loose. After that I used a wood block between the rail and locking collar to leverage the suppressor loose. Depending on the dimension between the back section of the locking collar and rail, that may or may not be feasible option for every configuration, and you'd have to use heat - shoot some more, or use the butane torch.

    Since that experience, I've always brought a set of welding gloves and a silicone cooking pad in my range bag, and remembered to remove any QD suppressors while hot. I also perform routine cleanings, on the muzzle device, and back end of the suppressor. For cleaning the suppressor, I just chuck up a large diameter nylon pipe cleaner on a cordless drill and invert the can - muzzle up and going go up to the blast baffle, for more extensive cleanings, what I do is cork up the muzzle end of the suppressor bore and let the solvents do the work while I take care of other things. For solvents, I've used everything from the foaming bore cleaners, the dip, and CLR. In the past, can't remember which thread, a SF rep, Garin, Kudu22, has recommended using CLR and it doesn't has effected the Cerakote finish.

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    If you get the latch unlocked, but the can is still stuck, you can slam the front end of the suppressor on a carpeted surface a few times.

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