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Thread: Building an upper

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
    I have the Brownell's rod and for occasional use it is fine especially considering it cost me $25 secondhand. If I changed barrels everyday I would have the Geissele rod and a $750 Wilton vise to hold it with.
    Do you use it the way the instructions say to or do you put a piece of square 1/2 inch steel rod in it and then clamp that in a vice?
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-04-15 at 16:43.

  2. #42
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    Prime example of the Brownells Reaction Rod. > http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/684...14178#i7014178

  3. #43
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    So, it's obviously a no-no to clamp the upper in a vice directly on the forward assist and rounded left side. However, I always just clamp mine between the bottom of the upper and the rail. I have zero issues applying the specified toque to the barrel nut with that setup. For soft jaws I use either wood or UHMWPE (cutting board material). This isn't my photo, but it might as well be - same HF vice, same white plastic blocks:



    Also, when removing a barrel nut, always heat it up first! Just an electric heat gun is fine if you're squeamish with a torch. Warming the nut directly expands it, and also loosens/softens anything binding the threads.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    Prime example of the Brownells Reaction Rod. > http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/684...14178#i7014178
    He started out with a DPMS Claw vise block, isn't it possible that it was the culprit? But yeah I can see how torqueing from the rod end could do it. I still think the Geissele rod would not be an issue with in spec torqued barrel nut, 80lbs seem excessive even for removal. Have you seen the same thing happen with Geissele rods or is it just the Brownells type?
    Last edited by titsonritz; 11-12-15 at 15:53.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by titsonritz View Post
    He started out with a DPMS Claw vise block, isn't it possible that it was the culprit? But yeah I can see how torqueing from the rod end could do it. I still think the Geissele rod would not be an issue with in spec torqued barrel nut, 80lbs seem excessive even for removal. Have you seen the same thing happen with Geissele rods or is it just the Brownells type?
    The DPMS Claw block sucks too but all of the damage being on the left side of the index pin notch indicates that it was the Brownells tool that caused the index pin to shear.

    Because of it's popularity I have seen this type of thing happen many more times with the Geissele Reaction Rod, both with installation and removal of the barrel nut but mostly on removal.
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-12-15 at 16:40.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    Prime example of the Brownells Reaction Rod. > http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/684...14178#i7014178
    Prime example of the vise block.>>> https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.h...&f=49&t=355495

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
    Prime example of the vise block.>>> https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.h...&f=49&t=355495
    Yes, that happens all the time with those DPMS Claw type or pin style vise blocks. Those are made for installing sights and scopes.

    Unless you use them like Auto-X Fil shows above.
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-12-15 at 17:04.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    Do you use it the way the instructions say to or do you put a piece of square 1/2 inch steel rod in it and then clamp that in a vice?
    I am a woodworker/gearhead so I whipped up wooden fixture with a 1/2" drive T-handle sandwiched between it clamped to the bench. Working with the upper parallel to and close to the bench doesn't require 3 hands like doing it the Brownell's way. Like I said... I would have the Geissele rod if I did it everyday.

    Last edited by GH41; 11-12-15 at 16:56.

  9. #49
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    Better than doing it as per Brownells instructions for sure.
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-12-15 at 16:58.

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