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Thread: Building an upper

  1. #31
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    Will plain simple lithium wheel bearing grease do the trick?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by titsonritz View Post
    Will plain simple lithium wheel bearing grease do the trick?
    Works for me.
    Power is in tearing human minds to pieces and putting them together again in new shapes of your own choosing. George Orwell, 1984

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I doubt most of the guys on the forums have built as many guns as I have. I have been using C5-A for well over 10 years, and on my personal guns.
    What is it about Loctite C5-A? What made you decide to use it in the first place and what makes you keep using it when anything with graphite in it is considered by most to be not good?

  4. #34
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    Ahh... the old Moly paste vs anti seize nonsense. There's some hard cores out that believe your AR will melt, lock up, or self destruct if you assemble the barrel nut with anti seize and only the spec'd Aeroshell moly should be used. Phooey!

    Go team anti seize!
    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Stop dicking the dog, please. It's gross.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    I doubt most of the guys on the forums have built as many guns as I have. I have been using C5-A for well over 10 years, and on my personal guns.
    Do you change anything for stainless barrels?

    Have you taken apart anything many years old that you built and had any issues getting it apart? I mean due to lube. I honestly haven't read anything about the schools of thought other than someone said copper AS could have a galvanic reaction. My BCM built stainless upper looks like it has some sort of brownish (copper?) lube... not sure what they use... It's not grey or white though, that's for sure. I thought a main purpose of copper AS was to prevent galvanic reactions.

  6. #36
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    Agree with the Geissele Reaction Rod - it is pricey, but guarantees you will not ruin the parts you just purchased.
    - Ive often wondered if putting torque on the feed ramps/locking lug area, could cause any problems, but I think the metal of the geissele is softer?? - any thoughts 556BlackRifle?

  7. #37
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    Brownells sells a version for 308 and the 556 upper. I have not tried it yet but brownells is a place for gunsmiths to buy tools

    Its a brownells brand

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalDeliveryAssistant View Post
    Agree with the Geissele Reaction Rod - it is pricey, but guarantees you will not ruin the parts you just purchased.
    - Ive often wondered if putting torque on the feed ramps/locking lug area, could cause any problems, but I think the metal of the geissele is softer?? - any thoughts 556BlackRifle?
    Sorry but I honestly don't know if the RR is made with softer material than the BE. Sounds like a good question for Geissele.....
    “I predict future happiness for Americans, if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.”
    Thomas Jefferson

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel87 View Post
    Brownells sells a version for 308 and the 556 upper. I have not tried it yet but brownells is a place for gunsmiths to buy tools

    Its a brownells brand

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
    That tool is actually worse than the Reaction Rod if you use it the way the instructions tell you to. The Brownells tool as it is, is not long enough to be clamped in a vise. It is made to be attached to a torque wrench.

    This tool actually came out before the Reaction Rod and the way the instructions read everyone avoided it because of the pure ridiculousness of the whole thing.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by 556Cliff View Post
    That tool is actually worse than the Reaction Rod if you use it the way the instructions tell you to. The Brownells tool as it is, is not long enough to be clamped in a vise. It is made to be attached to a torque wrench.

    This tool actually came out before the Reaction Rod and the way the instructions read everyone avoided it because of the pure ridiculousness of the whole thing.
    I have the Brownell's rod and for occasional use it is fine especially considering it cost me $25 secondhand. If I changed barrels everyday I would have the Geissele rod and a $750 Wilton vise to hold it with.

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