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Thread: Fully rustproof weatherproof AR-15

  1. #11
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    Duracoat all the parts (yes, it can be done.....most of my AR's are done in this fashion) except the bolt and carrier. For that drop in an NP3 BCG from Sionics.
    11C2P '83-'87
    Airborne Infantry

  2. #12
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    The solution to this is easy---''Birdsong's Black-T''--- available in many colors. They completely strip it down and coat every little part, springs, etc. I have some in ''Tactical Green'' [ O.D. green basically ], brown, brown with black tiger stripes, black, and just had the wife one done in ''LSU Purple and Pink'' with pink Magpul furniture. I had a Rem 700 done in '96 and it has been elk hunting on horseback and walking, it still looks great, so it holds up great. I had a Glock 34 done in black several rounds back--- still looks great. For full disclosure-- they are local to me and family friends--- but they do have a very good product and are great people.

  3. #13
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    Look at V7 Weapon Systems. They make a ton of "exotic" metal parts without all the coatings.

  4. #14
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    I think having all the small steel parts cerakoted would be a better bet than NP3 or NiB. If I remember the independent test correctly, cerakote prevented rust several thousand hours longer than duracoat, NP3, NiB, or any of the other wonder finishes. I'd wager a rifle with a chrome bore, NP3 bolt and carrier, anodized or cerakote receivers, and cerakoted small parts would prevent rust for a fairly long time.

  5. #15
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    COTS stuff:

    Nitrided barrel
    AIM nitrided bcg
    nitrided lo pro gas block
    nitrided gas tube
    nitrided muzzle device.
    MBUS pro nitrided sights
    Nitride LPK: http://www.groundzeroprecision.com/p...-control-group

    Take all the other steel stuff, like castle nut, screws, fcg etc... and send them to a nitriding place. It isn't expensive.

    Everything else is plastic or aluminum.

    fill the spring cavities with grease.

    That should do it.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    Yeah but...are you actually in the gulf?

    My rifle has seen saltwater (went on a boating trip) and the selector switch, trigger, bolt release, and mag release all started rusting before I got home.

    Making a "rust proof" AR15 is going to be expensive and difficult at best. Even an SS barrel will rust under those conditions mentioned by the OP
    Short answer, yes. I can walk about 50 feet and be standing in the water of the gulf.

    My rifle has been submerged multiple times, and god knows how longs its sat in my truck.

    I've given it every opportunity to start rusting, but it hasn't.

    It wouldn't be expensive because there isn't a whole lot you have to do

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by firefighter37 View Post
    Not to mention the springs (detent, buffer, trigger, extractor, ejector)
    exactly, and this is the part I wondered about the most. Is it possible to coat all those little parts with something like np3 or duracoat and not muck up the works? coating the springs? would it change the tension? I'm very curious about this.
    Last edited by Rermey Lee; 12-17-15 at 21:11. Reason: typo

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leonidas24 View Post
    I think having all the small steel parts cerakoted would be a better bet than NP3 or NiB. If I remember the independent test correctly, cerakote prevented rust several thousand hours longer than duracoat, NP3, NiB, or any of the other wonder finishes. I'd wager a rifle with a chrome bore, NP3 bolt and carrier, anodized or cerakote receivers, and cerakoted small parts would prevent rust for a fairly long time.
    Interesting info on the cerakote, I never knew it was so good at preventing corrosion, thanks for your reply.

  9. #19
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    Is there a tactical belt of chest mounted wd40 can holder? That's probly be cheaper and work as well.

  10. #20
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    Coat it in wd40. I've had my fair share of ocean swims with a wd40'D m4 that showed little to no rust. Just clean it well as soon as you're able to.

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