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Thread: Castle nut staking: PSA and BCM

  1. #1
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    Castle nut staking: PSA and BCM

    First off, hello all. I've been lurking for some time now and I finally have a reason to introduce myself.

    I have little to no technical knowledge of the AR-15. I'm a new owner who snapped together a BCM upper and a PSA blem lower. That said, from what I've read castle nut staking is a must. I was recently comparing two PSA blem complete lowers to a BCM blem complete lower and I noticed a difference in castle nut staking.

    IMG_4664.jpg
    IMG_4662.jpg
    IMG_4668.jpg
    IMG_4665.jpg
    IMG_4666.jpg

    Is the PSA staking sufficient? I'm not posting this to bash them, but it doesn't look anywhere near as staked as the BCM castle nut (only 1 out of 3 positions and I'm not sure how much metal is really pushed into the groove). Would you guys recommend I stake the PSA castle nut myself in the areas where there is no staking?

    I should note that both PSA lowers have the same staking and have been absolutely reliable after ~250 rounds each.
    Last edited by MWAG19919; 12-20-15 at 13:52.

  2. #2
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    If it was my gun then I would stake it again because there is not sufficient metal to hold the castle nut. While your at it stake it in the other slot. It only takes a hammer and a punch.
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  3. #3
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    Stake it again, unless you're going to be switching the tubes soon.


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  4. #4
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    Go to Harbor freight and pick up their cheap auto punch. I grabbed a couple they were so cheap. Work great for staking castle nuts.
    http://m.harborfreight.com/automatic...dle-62141.html on sale for $2.99
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    Last edited by silviacrazed; 12-20-15 at 15:56.

  5. #5
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    One might be staked prettier than the other but the PSA is probably fine. This isn't rocket science..

  6. #6
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    Yup. Its easy to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by silviacrazed View Post
    Go to Harbor freight and pick up their cheap auto punch. I grabbed a couple they were so cheap. Work great for staking castle nuts.
    http://m.harborfreight.com/automatic...dle-62141.html on sale for $2.99
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    Plus one on the auto-punch. I grabbed one from Lowe's, did much better job with it then free handing it with a hammer and punch.

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    Here's my bit of advice having staked a few thousand castle nuts. Find someone to help you and break that PSA nut loose. I am 99% sure they used nothing on the threads and it isn't torqued to spec.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Here's my bit of advice having staked a few thousand castle nuts. Find someone to help you and break that PSA nut loose. I am 99% sure they used nothing on the threads and it isn't torqued to spec.
    How can you determine that? Is it just a trained eye, having seen so many? Or is there a "tell" that can be looked for?


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Here's my bit of advice having staked a few thousand castle nuts. Find someone to help you and break that PSA nut loose. I am 99% sure they used nothing on the threads and it isn't torqued to spec.

    The auto punches work and minimize collateral damage but take forever unless people have some kind of industrial model that I'm unaware of. I was initially scared of the hammer and chisel, but it really is the quickest, easiest, most secure way to do the job... I've never purchased an assembled lower so I don't know PSA's MO. I do know that I can stake the crap out of castle nut, torque it to spec, and still get it off relatively easily by myself with my feet, elbows, and a wrench. I have receiver blocks, but I usually can't be bothered to walk all the way out to the garage.

    EDIT: My first AR was a complete rifle, so I redact my statement about never purchasing a complete lower... I've never removed a castle nut from an assembled lower...
    Last edited by Shao; 12-21-15 at 09:34.

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