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Thread: Can't get new barrel to group.

  1. #11
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    Check your gas block has at least 1/8" clearance from handguard

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kansaswoodguy View Post
    Check your gas block has at least 1/8" clearance from handguard
    I thought this may of been the issue but it appears not.
    I'm going to call today to see what they can do. Either replace it with a standard chamber and move to a Kreiger or refund.



    Did some testing yesterday with 4064 and have the same effect. All groups are 1.5-2 inches.



    I thought maybe the gas block was hitting the rail, so I took the rail off. No marks at all
















  3. #13
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    Some barrels require some break in followed by a thorough cleaning. Years ago, I purchased a Ruger heavy barrel .223 varmint rifle that should have been a tack driver, but shot 2-1/2" groups at 100 yards. I checked scope mounts, action screws, you name it and the rifle still grouped like a shotgun.

    After roughly 150 frustrating rounds, I decided to trade off the rifle on something else. Before trading it off, I cleaned the bore thoroughly, then followed up with J.B. Bore Paste. After I cleaned the barrel, I decided to shoot another group before heading to the gun shop. The same ammunition shot 1/2 MOA out to 200 meters.
    Train 2 Win

  4. #14
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    Try taking the barrel nut off and check that the barrel extension fits snugly into the upper reciever. If not you can use Locktite to bed it in this can still be removed with use of a good quality heat gun if needed. Try a diffrent scope. Make sure everything is tight scope rings ect. Try a diffrent bolt maybe head space out of spec. Try black hills ammo or 55vmax 21gr imr 3031 CCI small rifle primer COL 2.25" this is my standard AR load if it won't shoot that, barrel has real issues. Did see a loose gas key causing issues once but it was causing cycling issues if I remember right. I also do not clean my barrels hardly ever unless the accuracy tails off then I will this takes hundreds if not thousands of rounds in most of my guns. I have a Bushmaster that has to have 40-60 rounds down the tube after a good copper cleaning to come back to shooting MOA. And I also have ruger m77 30-06 that looks like I've been copper mining after 5 rounds there all individuals.

  5. #15
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    I generally square and true the crown on all my AR's this can make a big difference.

    C4


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kansaswoodguy View Post
    Try taking the barrel nut off and check that the barrel extension fits snugly into the upper reciever. If not you can use Locktite to bed it in this can still be removed with use of a good quality heat gun if needed. Try a diffrent scope. Make sure everything is tight scope rings ect. Try a diffrent bolt maybe head space out of spec. Try black hills ammo or 55vmax 21gr imr 3031 CCI small rifle primer COL 2.25" this is my standard AR load if it won't shoot that, barrel has real issues. Did see a loose gas key causing issues once but it was causing cycling issues if I remember right. I also do not clean my barrels hardly ever unless the accuracy tails off then I will this takes hundreds if not thousands of rounds in most of my guns. I have a Bushmaster that has to have 40-60 rounds down the tube after a good copper cleaning to come back to shooting MOA. And I also have ruger m77 30-06 that looks like I've been copper mining after 5 rounds there all individuals.
    Make sure the fit was snugged
    Tired a different scope
    Use blue loctie on the fasteners for the scope
    Bolt was headspace just for that bolt
    Tired Hornday match as well as a few other matc
    BCG is fine

  7. #17
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    In spring of 2015, I bought a CLE DOUGLAS recon 16" barrel with 1:7, wylde chamber. It shot 2 MOA. I sent it back and they said that there was a burr in the gas port. I got it back and it still didn't group. They replaced the barrel and the new one shoots good.

    I got a CLE DOUGLAS 20" 1:7, WYLDE chsmber bull barrel a few years ago and it shot great from the beginning.

    BTW, if you are worried about a muzzle device causing issues, try shooting it without one installed. I did it during my debugging procedues and found that it made no difference in my case.


    Good luck.
    Last edited by DRT; 01-09-16 at 16:54.

  8. #18
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    UPDATE



    Got the WOA barrel in and went to the range. I typically shoot 6 shots, clean the barrel. Did this 3-4 times. Total wise I shot 118 rounds and the last few groups were under a 1moa at 100. I was tired and ready to go home so not my best shooting by any means.

    Something I notice. The gas block on the Compass Lake was loose fit, however on the WOA I had to wiggle and push to harder to get it on and lined up.

    Also saw the gas tube was touching the receiver with the Compass. I've never heard of gas tube causing such inaccuracy issues. When installing the WOA I made darn sure the gas block was line up and the tube was free of the receiver. It only touches on the top of the gas hole opening in the receiver.

  9. #19
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    i have 20 inch Krieger sourced from Brownells, chambered by Krieger i believe. it's a 1 in 7.7 twist. try 73 gr Bergers, (non VLD's) with Varget or Reloader 15. around 22.5 t0 23 grs works. from a rest off the bench it 's shooting in the .3's to .5's consistently, 5 shot groups. awesome bullet
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    Last edited by swadiver; 01-24-16 at 04:16.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisguy65 View Post
    Shooting prone and using a rear bag at 100 yards I get groups of 1-1.5 moa. To be fair I have not shot semi in a while but when I did I got 1/2 - 3/4 moa. I was taught how to shoot a bolt gun, but not a semi. I often hear you have to "drive it" different. What that differences is? I do not know. So it could be me but I honestly doubt it as I record where the crosshairs were when the trigger broke.
    Difference between a bolt rifle and semi-auto, is the recoil impulse. A bolt action has one recoil impulse, vs. the multiple things going on with an AR type semi auto during the firing cycle. "Driving," the semi-auto is controlling it through it's full recoil cycle and movement. Not uncommon for folks with lots of bolt gun experience to have this issue when moving over to a semi-auto, and it is even more pronounced w/ the larger .308/7.62mm sized cartridge platform as the recoil and reciprocating masses are even larger than .223/5.56. In other words, bolt guns are more forgiving of less than perfect shooter inputs than semi-autos are. If you head on over to the Snipershide.com forum, I believe there are some free videos on semi-auto vs. bolt gun lessons that may explain it a little better.

    It sounds like you may have had a barrel issue that you sorted out, but I felt it was important to bring up the 'software' issue as well b/c it remains a factor even if all the gear related issues are sorted out.

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