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Thread: What happens with lack of lube?

  1. #11
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    The only gun I've seen choke was a pistol. Guy just purchased it and was mad it kept malfunctioning. 2 squirting of clp and it never had an issue after.

    For an ar, I would imagine ftf due to slow speed and high friction, as well as increased wear. The bolt has to twist and slide in the carrier, the carrier has to slide in the upper, and the buffer has to slide. All are friction points. Lube also prevents corrosion and keeps carbon from sticking.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutter_spc View Post
    So the gas rings blow out and the gun is mechanically down? Round about round count this might happen?

    I've run courses and qualifications at which carbines went down due to lack of lube. The gas rings galled up and the bolt locked up.
    Train 2 Win

  3. #13
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    You may find this interesting.

    ETA: I got to shoot this gun a couple weeks after this article was posted. It was without a doubt the filthiest gun I'd ever seen. I was amazed it would run at all. The pictures don't do it justice.

    http://soldiersystems.net/2015/05/09...nk-proctor-14/
    Last edited by SteveL; 01-17-16 at 21:34.
    Steve

  4. #14
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    So it's not just one point, but multiple points? I would have thought that the AR would run just fine with no lube on the outside of the carrier. I'm not about to test that theory out on one of my uppers, but seeing as how upper receivers seem to never wear out, I would have thought this would not be the case.

    SteveL very interesting read. I love it when old theories are proven wrong about "jam-o-matic" AR.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutter_spc View Post
    So it's not just one point, but multiple points? I would have thought that the AR would run just fine with no lube on the outside of the carrier. I'm not about to test that theory out on one of my uppers, but seeing as how upper receivers seem to never wear out, I would have thought this would not be the case.

    SteveL very interesting read. I love it when old theories are proven wrong about "jam-o-matic" AR.
    Keep the weapon lubed and it will run.
    Train 2 Win

  6. #16
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    Note the famous filthy-14 had one application of lube, presumably "on all the friction points and a couple other places," It just wasn't reapplied until after 30k rounds.

    This is not the same as running without lube.

    I agree that a good AR15 is awesomely reliable.
    Last edited by stahljaeger; 01-17-16 at 23:15. Reason: Because no matter how many times I proofread, I can only find blatant grammar errors after I submit

  7. #17
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    http://www.defensereview.com/the-big...m4-unreliable/

    Another good read. Seems it might be the outside of the carrier after all. He ran this one with no lube at all.

  8. #18
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    I was going to recommend that one to read as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by cutter_spc View Post
    http://www.defensereview.com/the-big...m4-unreliable/

    Another good read. Seems it might be the outside of the carrier after all. He ran this one with no lube at all.



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  9. #19
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    Thanks for the reply's guys. Looks like I found my answers. I think we all can agree that the AR DI guns run well when lubed and should be lubed. I was just curious as to the effects of under lubed guns or guns that have run dry, and what parts needed to be lubed if and when this should occur. From what I have read, looks like I may never have this problem, LOL.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutter_spc View Post
    Thanks for the reply's guys. Looks like I found my answers. I think we all can agree that the AR DI guns run well when lubed and should be lubed. I was just curious as to the effects of under lubed guns or guns that have run dry, and what parts needed to be lubed if and when this should occur. From what I have read, looks like I may never have this problem, LOL.

    from one who knows

    How To Lube Your AR-15 (Very Important)!

    People speak of running AR-15’s “wet” but this is not the way to go at all. An AR has gas blow back and gas with particulate matter gets back into the inside of the upper receiver, the bolt carrier, etc. Having a wet sloppy mess of oil and grease in there does nothing but provide a trap for a big grungy mess to form and clog things up.

    The right type of lubrication needs only be applied where there is metal to metal contact of moving parts - any more is a potential cause for problems. You don't want gobs of oil and grease shooting and squirting all around inside your rifle as it cycles, sending lube into places where it does not belong (i.e. down in the magazines, on the bullets themselves, up inside the chamber, back into the buffer tube assembly).

    Would you indiscriminantly hose down the inside of your car's engine compartment and the drive train underneath your car with lube and oil? No!

    On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names).

    Some parts not to lubricate at all: 1. The firing pin (don't need anything to impede the pin making a good strike on the primer); and 2. The buffer or the buffer spring assembly (unless you want your rifle to possibly malfunction and short stroke); 3. If you are going to be shooting in very cold weather, keep the lubricant off the lateral riding surfaces on the outside of your bolt carrier or it can slow the carrier down enough so the rifle will short stroke. Above about 20 degrees F, that's not an issue typically.

    The areas that always need it: 1. The rear of the bolt lugs (severe duty – must do, but only need a little bit on the back of each lug); 2. The cam pin (another severe duty place, put around the pin just below the head of the pin); 3. The very back of the bolt behind the gas rings (the .250” diameter stem) where it rides in and out of the carrier; and 4. The gas rings; and 5. The lateral riding surfaces on the outside of the bolt carrier, except in very cold weather (like below 20 degrees Fahrenheit) where high viscosity lube can slow down the carrier and possibly cause the rifle to short stroke).

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