600 yard steel shooting with 5.56 - 9/2/2017 - Sub MOA @ 1000 (lol but for real)

[B52U]

In my own personal quest to reach Euro like greatness, or at least as close as I can... he sets a pretty high bar.

I tried making my first hits out past 100 yards yesterday.

I was aiming at a 24" gong and was told it was 480yrds. Out of 10 shots I was only able to hit it 4 (we think) times. The guy spotting for me had some 10x binoculars and said he could not tell on a few shots.

Equipment used:
Primary Arms 1-6 with ACSS in an Areo SPR mount.
LaRue Ultimate Upper kit with 16" Stealth Barrel, finished off with Centurion lower.
Sig Saur 77gr .233 in a Magpul Pmag.

What I was doing:
I was sitting on one of the range benches using one of the wooden blocks they provide (they are wrapped in a very old and worn carpet). Handguard was resting on the wooden block and the stock was supported by my sholder. I realize this is not the most the most stable of shooting positions...

Being 480 yards I started trying to hold over at 500. I ended up having hold the markings for 700 at the center of the target.


Questions:
1) What is the next logical step for me to create a better/more stable shooting platform? I was thinking a bipod and some kind of bag to help support the stock. Should I not sit at the bench and just lay prone, perhaps with a mat? I've read of shooting mats that use a bar or other means at the front edge that help to support the legs of the bipod.

2) Why did I have to hold over so much? Is this because the ACSS is not designed to work with the ammo I was using? Or is may 100 yard zero off and this is causing me to be way off at greater distance?

3) Any suggestions, or things I may be doing to make this harder than it should be?

Thanks!


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Better rest support is paramount. Front and rear bags or front bipod and rear bag is needed to really get consistency at distance. The rest is fundamentals and wind calls. When you reach further out than 500 you need some good ballistic data to get correct hold/drop. Also when you start compensating a lot for distance with your reticle or turrets you need to ensure the gun is level. Bubble level helps a lot.

Edited: Strelok Pro for $12 is a steal to get proper hold data for pretty much every common scope reticle on the market. You will need precise velocity with your ammo and gun to get the most out of it. Accurate height over bore for your scope as well.

Here is a screenshot with the ACSS reticle.
The numbers change depending on ammo and rifle and setup inputs:

[vandal5]

Better rest support is paramount. Front and rear bags or front bipod and rear bag is needed to really get consistency at distance. The rest is fundamentals and wind calls. When you reach further out than 500 you need some good ballistic data to get correct hold/drop. Also when you start compensating a lot for distance with your reticle or turrets you need to ensure the gun is level. Bubble level helps a lot.

Edited: Strelok Pro for $12 is a steal to get proper hold data for pretty much every common scope reticle on the market. You will need precise velocity with your ammo and gun to get the most out of it. Accurate height over bore for your scope as well.

Here is a screenshot with the ACSS reticle.
The numbers change depending on ammo and rifle and setup inputs:

Thank you B52U. I will work on getting better rest support. Will likely start with some bags till I decide on and save up for a bipod.

As for the app, I had looked at the free version but never got to actually try it while shooting. I will check it out again. I don't have a chronograph, would manufacture data be close enough to start?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[B52U]

Thank you B52U. I will work on getting better rest support. Will likely start with some bags till I decide on and save up for a bipod.

As for the app, I had looked at the free version but never got to actually try it while shooting. I will check it out again. I don't have a chronograph, would manufacture data be close enough to start?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yes as a starting point you can use manufacturer velocity and then tweak the velocity based on your actual drop at a given distance. Strelok has a trajectory correction feature that will let you true it up. Always best to get actual chrono data if you get a chance to shoot over a friend's chrono though.

[Eurodriver]

To be frank, a 24” Gong with a 6x optic, Larue UU and match ammo shouldn’t give you any trouble whatsoever at 480 yards.

B52U is giving great advice. BDC reticles are absolute garbage and I have never used one that worked properly. Even using a TA31RCOA4 on an M16A4 with M855 ammo my BDC was still off so much I was placing the 5 mark below the E target on the USMC KD course of fire.

[1168]

Yeah, BDC’s can be frustrating. They always seem to be made for the wrong pill at an optimistic velocity.

[gaijin]

I had a BDC scope that worked on a .308. Once. ( :

Prefer MIL/MIL glass on any “extended range” rifle these days.

[opngrnd]

I prefer to go for a midpoint zero, for lack of a better explanation. I use the 300 or 400 hash mark and zero at the corresponding distance. (E.g. zero at 300 with the 300 hashmark.) It gives me something usable if I'm stuck with a BDC.

[1168]

I prefer to go for a midpoint zero, for lack of a better explanation. I use the 300 or 400 hash mark and zero at the corresponding distance. (E.g. zero at 300 with the 300 hashmark.) It gives me something usable if I'm stuck with a BDC.

This is also what I do when I can.

[Pappabear]

I prefer to go for a midpoint zero, for lack of a better explanation. I use the 300 or 400 hash mark and zero at the corresponding distance. (E.g. zero at 300 with the 300 hashmark.) It gives me something usable if I'm stuck with a BDC.

I will second that . Zero at 3 to 400. You are not missing at 1-200. Then your more likely good to go at 5-750 ish. Adjust tweak and go on.

PB

[Eurodriver]

I prefer to go for a midpoint zero, for lack of a better explanation. I use the 300 or 400 hash mark and zero at the corresponding distance. (E.g. zero at 300 with the 300 hashmark.) It gives me something usable if I'm stuck with a BDC.

This is also what I do - in particular with the ACOG. 300y tip at 300y.