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Thread: RRA poly lower trouble.

  1. #1
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    RRA poly lower trouble.

    My end goal is to end up with a DDV11 and a short barreled suppressed 300blk upper.

    First step was getting an incredible deal on a DD 10.3" complete 300 blk upper from Western Sport. After that purchase I knew it would be some time before I purchased a V11 and would have that lower engraved for a SBR. I figured I could throw a cheap pistol lower together to get some use out of the upper just sitting in my safe. So I purchased a stripped RRA POLY lower locally along with a RRA LPK, pistol buffer and tube.Once I got everything together I test fire 20 rounds of supers and 20 rounds of subs for function only, everything checked fine. Mounted some optics got it zeroed at 100 with supers and shot a variety of supers. Had 6 failures to fire out of a box of 20 with Remington 130gr Hog Hammer TSX(sucks because I really wanted to hunt with this round). All FTF rounds had a solid firing pin strike in the primer. This was just short of 100 rounds in. I have not had any other failures with right at 200 rounds.

    Then I noticed this:







    Sent RRA an email describing the issue along with an email to the local shop where the initial purchase was made. LGS responded same day and stated if for any reason I was dissatisfied with RRA service they would take care of me by even trade for another or apply credit to anything in the store or whatever it took to make it right!

    After a week I called RRA and they immediately emailed me a return label. A few days later I get a call CS told me that due to the rate of failure they were not replacing poly lowers. They would issue a full MSRP refund (which was above retail) or apply MSRP credit to their line. I chose to apply credit to a forged stripped lower since I had parts sitting around. Since it wasn't an even exchange the new lower was shipped to the original shop of purchase where I picked it up and reassembled the pistol lower. Some minor inconvenience but overall very satisfied with the customer service I received from RRA and Jim's Firearms.


    Sent via telegraph with the same fingers I use to sip whiskey.
    Last edited by dbain99; 01-25-16 at 21:59.

  2. #2
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    I learned everything I ever needed to know about poly lowers in this thread:
    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...y-a-Bushmaster
    -Colt 6920 w/Aimpoint PRO

  3. #3
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    I find it interesting they won't replace the poly lower due to failure rate. If that's not a sign that poly is a no go then I don't know what is.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

  4. #4
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    Wasn't aware RRA made poly lowers.

    I've had two all poly lowers, a Plum Crazy and a New Frontier, both purchased as complete lowers. Never had any issues with the Plum Crazy which spent most of it's time mated to a 7.62x39 carbine upper. The NFA was used on a 5.45x39 upper til it started double tapping due to part of the FCG melting/deforming. Replaced them both with an Anderson and a PSA blem'd lower & PSA parts kits.

  5. #5
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    I've had better luck with Tennessee Arms poly lowers if you have to have a poly lower. I still wouldn't form 1 it though.

  6. #6
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    I don't understand why anyone would ever buy a polymer lower receiver under any circumstances. I do not mean this as a passive agressive insult, I honestly just don't understand and therefore take the blame for that.

  7. #7
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    I'm shocked anybody would manufacture a plastic lower that's dimensionally the same as an aluminum one, and expect any other result than the back half coming off.

  8. #8
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    Get the super glue out. Problem fixed. Repeat as necessary.

  9. #9
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    Nice of RRA and the LGS to step up for you with no grief.

    I thought everyone decided poly lowers were for .22's? I haven't been keeping up.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by eodinert View Post
    I'm shocked anybody would manufacture a plastic lower that's dimensionally the same as an aluminum one, and expect any other result than the back half coming off.
    Really all there is to it.

    Yes, a poly could work fine. But in aluminum geometery? No. And why bother when aluminum AR lowers are so plentiful? Because you can save a couple dollars on the inferior product? Well, everybody needs to learn it themselves I guess.

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