Home-Rolled Trigger Job?

[deadwood83]

I've been thinking about how awful my factory BM trigger is and just got an idea for a trigger job but i'm not sure it would work.

Now, not being the type that is adventurous enough to risk FA or burst firing, I don't plan on changing the hammer engagement angle (I am taking most of my trigger modding ideas from playing with 10/22's) but instead I want to put a set screw right above the notch to control the ammount of hammer engagement. Anyone think it might work?

ETA: I just realized that limiting the hammer's engagement might prevent the bolt carrier from moving rearward with as much force as it should.

So with that idea thrown out, I thought possibly of putting a 6-40 set screw in the groove of the trigger itself, preventing it from fully rising into the notch and therefore preventing creep safely. The only problem I can see with that is the disconnector might not release the hammer when the trigger's full movement is limited. However with a little JB-Weld I can build up the lower edge of the disco and fix that.

Here is a little rough diagram representing my idea.

Red = Creep setscrew location
Green = Roughly where the disconnector ends
Blue = Overtravel setscrew location

[Robb Jensen]

There's a better kit to do that that uses a modified pistol grip screw that controls sear engagement. But I wouldn't use it on a fighting rifle.

[deadwood83]

I think I remember seeing that somewhere. It looked like a good idea but from how I pictured it in my mind, any adjustments were nullified unless you were willing to deal with a sloppy pistol grip. Being a hunter/target shooter anything being a sloppy fit just freaks me out.

And of course i'm kinda cheap when it comes to gun parts.

But what i'm asking is would my idea really work?

[Thors ~ Hammer]

Time to go see your gunsmith deadwood83. Screwing around with FCGs is very dangerous.

[deadwood83]

yeah, but first I need to find a fgood AR-smith near me.

[Bill Alexander]

Hammer/Trigger groups are "supposed" to be 4140 with between 7 and 10 thou case hardening on the engagement surfaces. This will give about 15 thou on the rest of the surfaces. If you can drill and tap, your already have a problem because the sear will collapse, being too soft for long term wear. The same applies for changing the engagement angles. Unless you can get everything set with 6 thou or less material removal the unit will need rehardening. This can be achieved reasonably quickly and easily with Kasnit powder but the result is somewhat of an unknown and should not be trusted if there is any occasion for lead to be coming back the other way during the use of said trigger.

It was such problems that led me to the design of the tactical trigger. This is a single stage unit that already has the angles and positions set, has adjustment screws built in and the finish of the sear is additionally bearing chromed to provide 72 HRC surfaces that will not corrode or crumble. I match it with a reduced weight hammer but it is designed to run with FA standard units. The latest gen units are machined out of S7 and heat treated as we found this material to be the best available with good toughness, hardness and corrosion resistance even before the chrome.

Bill Alexander

[Thors ~ Hammer]

Hammer/Trigger groups are "supposed" to be 4140 with between 7 and 10 thou case hardening on the engagement surfaces. This will give about 15 thou on the rest of the surfaces. If you can drill and tap, your already have a problem because the sear will collapse, being too soft for long term wear. The same applies for changing the engagement angles. Unless you can get everything set with 6 thou or less material removal the unit will need rehardening. This can be achieved reasonably quickly and easily with Kasnit powder but the result is somewhat of an unknown and should not be trusted if there is any occasion for lead to be coming back the other way during the use of said trigger.

It was such problems that led me to the design of the tactical trigger. This is a single stage unit that already has the angles and positions set, has adjustment screws built in and the finish of the sear is additionally bearing chromed to provide 72 HRC surfaces that will not corrode or crumble. I match it with a reduced weight hammer but it is designed to run with FA standard units. The latest gen units are machined out of S7 and heat treated as we found this material to be the best available with good toughness, hardness and corrosion resistance even before the chrome.

Bill Alexander

deadwood83 listen to this man he knows what he is talking about. If you can't fund a custom drop in FCG then look online for a smith. They are not out of reach. Whatever you do just be careful and make sure your gun does not go FA.

[deadwood83]

I think i'll just opt to buy an aftermarket trigger. I really started looking at where exactly stuff would go and there were way too many ways a tap/drill could break, plus everyone has pretty much said don't tap/drill so i'm gonna heed their advice.

I think this means it's time to browse the FSOT forums and Midway. Unless anybody has any suggestions?

[Nitrox]

I think i'll just opt to buy an aftermarket trigger. I really started looking at where exactly stuff would go and there were way too many ways a tap/drill could break, plus everyone has pretty much said don't tap/drill so i'm gonna heed their advice.

I think this means it's time to browse the FSOT forums and Midway. Unless anybody has any suggestions?

RRA is currently having a sale on 2 stage triggers to dealers, call around and see if you can find a deal.

[Harv]

Never met a trigger I could not overcome with practice and rds thru it.....
I used a stock Bushmaster trigger for a decade and never had a problem hitting was I was aiming at......

Don't try to "Buy" accuracy.....Just my $.02


I watch ALOT of guys with fancy 2stage triggers who suck shooting.....