M&P owners, front sight walking fix?

[Djstorm100]

I never had issues with my front sight until I installed some Trijicon sights. I was shooting some steel and notice my POI was way to the right. Thinking it was rear sight adjustment I started to walk back to the shop and notice my front sight has walked over. I could a this point move it by hand with some resistance. I had been doing some fast pace drills so the barrel and slide were hot. This is my EDC and only pistol other than shield. I read how SIG will peen the slide under the sight to tighten it up. Which I did and added some blue loc tight. Not sure if anyone else has done this and how well it held. Given my current situation it was my only option. Give my pistol has Apex parts and is cerakoted (slide) I doubt S&W will do anything. Going to give them a call later anyhow.

[MegademiC]

Who installed the sights?

Some require minor fitting and perhaps too much material was removed.

[Djstorm100]

I installed the sights. No material was removed. They were fine, up until I got some heat in to the pistol. Thinking the dovetail may be tolerance stack up on sights and dovetail. Or the dovetail is just to large


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[MStarmer]

I wouldn't use blue for that particular application. I would say that you need some "fill" and "glue" type product for that particular application at this point. With that being said take a tip from Dawson Precision and use some Loctite 620. Get your poa/poi perfect and mark your slide with some fine pencil marks or measure with a caliper. Clean both the slide and sight with isopropyl alcohol and apply a small amount (loctite) to both. Reinstall to marks or measurement, clean it up carefully with some q-tips and don't get any alcohol into the bonding area while it's curing.

Watch this video but check out the loctite at 16:20 and you can see that it's not going to run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=do8sHBDfIGk

[Cap'n Crash]

I had the same problem with an M&P9 and Trijicons. I went a lazier approach than MStarmer, but it worked. I re-zeroed and used Loctite 290 (green), as it is meant to penetrate completed assemblies.

[MStarmer]

I had the same problem with an M&P9 and Trijicons. I went a lazier approach than MStarmer, but it worked. I re-zeroed and used Loctite 290 (green), as it is meant to penetrate completed assemblies.

I use 290 on all installed dovetailed sights (less rear M&P) just to make sure they don't go anywhere. Even if it's a tight press fit the "wicking" loctite can give you that extra measure of security you're looking for. It's good to have several different kinds of loctite on hand if you install or work on a lot of sights. I change and install a lot so I keep blue/red/290 and 620 on hand depending on the application.

[Djstorm100]

I use 290 on all installed dovetailed sights (less rear M&P) just to make sure they don't go anywhere. Even if it's a tight press fit the "wicking" loctite can give you that extra measure of security you're looking for. It's good to have several different kinds of loctite on hand if you install or work on a lot of sights. I change and install a lot so I keep blue/red/290 and 620 on hand depending on the application.

Whats the difference between 290 and 620? There are so many offerings by Loctite for "blue" and "red" can make your head spin at times.

[Cap'n Crash]

Whats the difference between 290 and 260? There are so many offerings by Loctite for "blue" and "red" can make your head spin at times.

All you could ever want to know about Loctite:

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEV...jONwFJ3wPtdOY-

Me, I just keep the regularly available formulas of purple, blue, red, and green on hand. The varying formulas for blue and red are explained in the attachment link. Usually has to do with temp ranges and fastener size.
(And I don't see 260 on the chart.)

[Djstorm100]

Sorry I meant 620 vs 290 (both are green)

[MStarmer]

Sorry I meant 620 vs 290 (both are green)

They are virtually opposite. 620 is very thick and has more adhesive properties and is very solvent resistant (thus why Dawson suggests it for fronts). 290 (wicking) as the name implies is thinner than water and will "wick" itself into already assembled components but has no real "fill" properties. So in a properly fitted dovetail it merely locks it down after it's where you want it, it also takes a few days to cure.

I use Red when installing any Glock front sight. This has worked well for me for probably 50-60 fronts with none shooting loose.
I use Blue on any rear set screws.
I use 290 on any stock installed dovetail sights (or newly installed) that are checked for proper zero.
I use 620 on any dovetailed front sight that has been installed more than once or has been moved from gun to gun.

I have the luxury of a MGW Sight-Pro so installs/swaps/adjustments are a breeze, ymmv.