VP9 Disconnector Tuning

[al800]

Picked up a new VP9 recently after drinking the HK koolaid. It's a nice shooting gun, but I'm not sure my trigger is as brilliant as reported.

Essentially, there's a "hitch" or a bit of grit in the takeup, before the break. I've seen the HKPro thread on this, and it would appear I'm having a similar issue. The HKPro thread is nice, but I'd like to get some other opinions or longer-term reports.

Thread is here: http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgu...matically.html



I've only put about 200 rounds through the gun, but I've been working the trigger for hours trying to smooth it out with no effect.

I have another disconnector on the way, and plan to hit the circled area with some fine grit paper. I'm assuming I don't want to change the profile, just shine it up a bit?

Can anyone share their thoughts or experience on this topic?

[tb-av]

I have an unfired VP9 here and I would describe the trigger as a hard knee break. Clean.

Knee = shape of a hocky stick or roof/wall.

The used one I have feels more like medium knee and sometimes a double knee break. IOW, one rounded pull or a pull with two minor knee transitions.

But nothing remotely resembling a 15lb pull mentioned in that thread. It's all light pull.

I don't feel any hump as mentioned. On the used one I feel maybe a 'dropping in' on those knees. The only thing I could liken that to is lock picking where you feel something settel in a bit but not unlock. IOW the opposite of a hump, more of a valley or down grade feel.

I'll be interested to see what you end up with though... but 15lbs!!! that should tell you something is seriously wrong to begin with.

Two things I notice in that thread... the "polished" piece simply looks like someone rubbed the finish off it. all the polished parts I have seen or bought look like a mirror.

The video... I can't actually get my finger to pull on such an unusual angle and have the tip rub on the guard. When I try to do that it pushes the trigger over and makes it harder to pull. But my finger is typically more perpendicular to trigger and not layed in on an angle like that.

Also that first take up he does. You can feel a mechanical action at the beginning but I just take that all up right away. Again, if you are pushing the trigger to the side maybe that seems like trigger pull but to me that's just basically taking the safety off and setting the resistance for the actual pull.

Anyway... that's my modestly informed take on it. If I was pulling 15lbs though I would be sending it back to where it came from.

[JimmyB62]

I've got about 35 k through my VP9 and the trigger has not smoothed out appreciably, but really if you're shooting at speed, it makes no difference. A smooth take up is really only noticeable for slow fire or prepping a precision shot and then, in my opinion only, doesn't really matter.

I also get that everyone is different and things that don't matter to me can be bothersome to others. Still, no matter what you do to smooth the take up is unlikely to improve your shooting.

Probably the only part of my answer that will help is that shooting/dry fire does not help and that hand polishing will be necessary.

[al800]

Thank you both. I appreciate hearing input from folks who have run the gun and know what's normal for it.

Some of the replies on the other thread are, I think, a little outlandish, especially the 15lb pull. I am completely happy with the pull weight, and the actual break is good.

I realize that it's not a 1911, but I heard such glowing reviews of the trigger I was curious.

JimmyB62, you're absolutely correct that it's not noticeable during normal operation, and it's not impacting accuracy. It's just something that I've noticed dry firing, but is easy to pull through.

When the trigger spring pliers arrive I'll pull the current disconnector, compare the two and post pictures. I'll assess the need for polishing from there; I'd prefer to avoid it if possible. Hopefully I can just swap parts and see an improvement, if there's even one to be had.

[tb-av]

I'll assess the need for polishing from there; I'd prefer to avoid it if possible.

To answer your earlier question. I'm pretty sure that when people reprofile parts, they have a knowledge and reason to do so.

But to polish is to shine and create a slicker surface. So if slickness is a good thing at that place, then polish would be good. Again, if you know the physics of the parts in action, which I don't, that would tell you if polishing is a good thing to try.

In my 22/45 the polished sear looks like a mirror and feels a world of difference from the oem but they are the same shape.

[MSparks909]

I've got about 35 k through my VP9 and the trigger has not smoothed out appreciably, but really if you're shooting at speed, it makes no difference. A smooth take up is really only noticeable for slow fire or prepping a precision shot and then, in my opinion only, doesn't really matter.

I also get that everyone is different and things that don't matter to me can be bothersome to others. Still, no matter what you do to smooth the take up is unlikely to improve your shooting.

Probably the only part of my answer that will help is that shooting/dry fire does not help and that hand polishing will be necessary.

Minor hijack...35K is the most rounds I've seen so far put through a VP9. How's it holding up? Have to do any spring replacements? Any breakages?

[JimmyB62]

Minor hijack...35K is the most rounds I've seen so far put through a VP9. How's it holding up? Have to do any spring replacements? Any breakages?

I put approx 25k through it in the first year and changed the recoil spring at 16k. I would have done it at 10k but couldn't find one then. HK later told me 15k is the max they recommend before replacement. I changed it again at about 25k and need to do it now. No breakages at all so far which has surprised me. I'm inclined to believe it may be a bit of a fluke. I thought I'd need to replace the trs by now.

The mag well looks like bloody hell from mag changes but that's about it. I shoot on my property and always shoot from concealment. I use a Milt Sparks VM2 and the inside stitching is torn/shredding but the gun finish is surprisingly good. It's definitely worn, but wear is even with few obvious hot spots. Other guns I've used didn't hold up as well finish wise.

About 20k rounds were Magtech 115 fmj and most of the rest were my reloads from that brass. I don't keep a great log so I can't tell you how many stoppages I've had but it's probably 5-7 and two for sure were bad rounds (mine).

I've temporarily retired the HK and gone back to a PPQ for reasons unrelated to the performance of the HK.

[MSparks909]

I put approx 25k through it in the first year and changed the recoil spring at 16k. I would have done it at 10k but couldn't find one then. HK later told me 15k is the max they recommend before replacement. I changed it again at about 25k and need to do it now. No breakages at all so far which has surprised me. I'm inclined to believe it may be a bit of a fluke. I thought I'd need to replace the trs by now.

The mag well looks like bloody hell from mag changes but that's about it. I shoot on my property and always shoot from concealment. I use a Milt Sparks VM2 and the inside stitching is torn/shredding but the gun finish is surprisingly good. It's definitely worn, but wear is even with few obvious hot spots. Other guns I've used didn't hold up as well finish wise.

About 20k rounds were Magtech 115 fmj and most of the rest were my reloads from that brass. I don't keep a great log so I can't tell you how many stoppages I've had but it's probably 5-7 and two for sure were bad rounds (mine).

I've temporarily retired the HK and gone back to a PPQ for reasons unrelated to the performance of the HK.

Thanks for the info. Good to know. I just hit 5,000 through one of my VPs. I'll order a recoil spring and plan on replacing every 10K. Carry on with the original intent of this thread

[Kevin P]

I put approx 25k through it in the first year and changed the recoil spring at 16k. I would have done it at 10k but couldn't find one then. HK later told me 15k is the max they recommend before replacement. I changed it again at about 25k and need to do it now. No breakages at all so far which has surprised me. I'm inclined to believe it may be a bit of a fluke. I thought I'd need to replace the trs by now.

The mag well looks like bloody hell from mag changes but that's about it. I shoot on my property and always shoot from concealment. I use a Milt Sparks VM2 and the inside stitching is torn/shredding but the gun finish is surprisingly good. It's definitely worn, but wear is even with few obvious hot spots. Other guns I've used didn't hold up as well finish wise.

About 20k rounds were Magtech 115 fmj and most of the rest were my reloads from that brass. I don't keep a great log so I can't tell you how many stoppages I've had but it's probably 5-7 and two for sure were bad rounds (mine).

I've temporarily retired the HK and gone back to a PPQ for reasons unrelated to the performance of the HK.

Is it possible for you to snap some pictures of the internals and stuff? Just curious on how the vp9 wears. Thanks

[al800]

Hey folks, I wanted to update the thread here with my results of replacing and polishing of the disconnector.

First I replaced the disconnector with a spare for HKParts. This actually removed most of the "grit" I was feeling, and I was pretty satisfied.

But, I like to fix things until they're broken, so out came the whetstones.

I did not change the profile of the disconnector at all initially, but did polish up the contact points where the sear rides along. This was done to original, but now spare disconnector

Put simply, this was a big waste of time. Even with a (fairly) nice polish, the trigger improvement was negligible, and about on par with the feel from the new disconnector.

I then got more aggressive with the profile of the circled area in the first post, and rounded it out slightly. Again, no change.

If you've got a little "hitch" in the trigger, try a new disconnector, it did help in my case. But the polishing was not effective.

As a side note, the hkparts trigger return pliers work well. I had the best luck setting the edge of the pliers on the short side of the spring, and using the pliers to depress the short side while gently pushing down and back into the frame. This procedure sets the trigger return spring in first try with a little practice.

I hope this saves someone a little time troubleshooting. If anyone needs to borrow the trigger return pliers, just shoot me a PM and I'll send em off.