Best degreaser for paint prep?

[SHIVAN]

I know some degreasers contain a chemical that will harm plastics and polymers, but work really well.

Well, I don't want to risk it, but I do want to degrease my new build in prep for some rattle can coloration.

So what do you guys use that's safe for polymers and plastics found on AR's??

[tiger seven]

I've used non-chlorinated brake cleaner on a number of gun-related painting projects over the years. It works really well at degreasing, and there has never been the slightest evidence of damage to stocks, grips, handguards or anything plastic or polymer.

If I had something that I wanted to paint and I thought that brake cleaner might be too aggressive, I'd try electrical contact cleaner.

Hope that helps.

Derek

[johnson601]

I used Slip2000 Cleaner/Degreaser on one of my ar's that I duracoated. Only used it one time but there is no problems with it so far.

[Robb Jensen]

Break Free Powder Blast.

[SHIVAN]

How about prep for A2 stock? This one has a smooth shiny texture....

I intend to use Krylon camo paint. Gonna be an issue?

[Iraqgunz]

SHIVAN,

I painted the M16A4 that I was using here previously and I used Simple Green and hot water ( I use it often) it will degrease and remove most everything. I then do a complete hot water rinse and dry.

[RogerinTPA]

I use Simple Green as a degreaser for the bolts as well. There are a lot of rumors about it corroding aluminum and will corrode aluminum parts on an AR. I have looked on there website and there's nothing hazardous, toxic or corrosive in it. I wish someone could cite a reference to prove that it corrodes aluminum instead of hear say BS.

SHIVAN,

I painted the M16A4 that I was using here previously and I used Simple Green and hot water ( I use it often) it will degrease and remove most everything. I then do a complete hot water rinse and dry.

[MX5]

Lacquer Thinner.

[Heavy Metal]

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a can of Acetone.

[PRGGodfather]

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a can of Acetone.

Or Home Depot...

Acetone and plain old Isopropyl alcohol work just great. Isopropyl is for any parts you're worried about melting with acetone, which shouldn't be many. I've used acetone and ispropyl practically interchangeably.

Acetone can harm SOME plastics, but usually, it makes the surface just rough enough for the pain to adhere. I have used it on all kinds of rifles -- boltguns and AR's -- and simply, there just isn't that much to worry about.

Also, the Krylon rattlecan (Ultra Flat Camo) paint looks great, and even better the farther you get away from it.

I have personally painted over a dozen rifles in county with it, and simply, it is one the best "bangs for your buck" around.

Some of my favorite stencils are plastic fern leaves and branches from the local hobby store (or if that's not available, backyard vegetation works, too) and a mesh laundry bag from Walgreens.

Now, if you want a rifle to match your belt and shoes -- well, Duracoat and Cerakote are great alternatives, if certainly more expensive.

Don't worry about it -- just do it. The first spray is the hardest -- but once done, if you don't like it -- do it over. No big deal.

Duracoat or Cerakote will stay perfect longer, but both finishes are also subject to scratching and chipping. If you're painting a GO gun and not a SHOW gun, Krylon rattlecan is hard to beat.