QD WMLs

[Canonshooter]

Acknowledging that I might be pursuing this due to misplaced priorities, I figure I'd share in case anyone else is interested.

It has been a struggle to keep my lightweight carbine light weight. It was going well until I realized that I truly need decent magnified optics to see past my finger tips anymore, but I managed to keep my "lightweight" carbine at just over 7 pounds with the use of a Leupold VX-R Patrol scope and a reasonably light weight (5.5 ounces) GG&G non-QD mount.

Though I depend on a Glock 17 and "Betty" (see link in sig section) as my primary HD weapons - both of which wear WMLs 24/7 - I have been resistant to add a WML to my carbine because....well....I'm trying to keep it light weight. That said, being 100% convinced of the utility of WMLs, how can I not have my carbine set up for one?

Based entirely on my own (and perhaps not-so-good) self advice, I decided that I would take the "detach it when you don't need it" approach, which in my case I estimate to be about 99.9% of the time. Since the WML will most likely be detached before it even goes into the case on the way to the range, I figured I may as well go for as much light as I can without getting overly stupid about it.

So here's the set-up: a Malkoff M61T MD2 in a Vltor off-set scout mount;





With 350 lumens through a TIR optic producing 12,000 lux at one meter, long run time, uber-quality construction and a lifetime warranty, the light is nicely spec'ed for weapon use. It's also a really nice light for other (normal, hand held) uses. The switch is forward-clicky but is recessed in the cap and takes quite a push to lock it on.

The Vltor mount is working out nicely as well, placed on the top of the BCM KMR rail all the way forward (my Magpul offset BUIS only had to be moved back a few notches). The thumbscrews make attachment/detachment quick and easy, and a bit of black electrical tape on the inside contact surfaces keep the light from moving under recoil (and keeps the type 3 anodizing on the Malkoff pretty).

The light and mount together weigh 8 ounces, which compared to something like the Arisaka 300 is a bit heavy. But then again quick, tool-less mounting means the light doesn't live on the rifle.

(PS - for a "permanently mounted" WML I've would have been all over the Arisaka)

Sighting imaginary zombies in my back yard in the dark with the Leupold set to 1.25X and the scope's red dot turned on, the M61T MD2 provides plenty of illumination for target acquisition/identification all the way out to the edge of the woods about 50 yards away. With the light mounted in the 11 o'clock position, it does not enter the field of view even at the VX-R's lowest setting.

Not wanting to stop there, I also have (on order) a Malkoff Hound Dog 18650 head, which will scorch the woods with 900 lumens and 29,000 lux. It runs on the same battery (a 3400mah Li-ion) and it's just a matter of unscrewing the M61T head off and the HD 18650 head on. With that, it will be head shots on those zombies hundreds of yards away. The HD head is also equipped with Malkoff's high-low switch, which entails unscrewing the head a few degrees from full tight to drop it back to about 30 lumens, perfect for taking the dogs for their final walk of the day (after I've shot all the zombies with it mounted on the carbine).

I've been told that a WML should remain on the weapon 24/7 but since I'm too stubborn to listen, I'm so far happy with this approach. I'll post a few more photos when Gene sends me the Hound Dog.

[RobertTheTexan]

- I have been resistant to add a WML to my carbine because....well....I'm trying to keep it light weight. That said, being 100% convinced of the utility of WMLs, how can I not have my carbine set up for one?

Based entirely on my own (and perhaps not-so-good) self advice, I decided that I would take the "detach it when you don't need it" approach, which in my case I estimate to be about 99.9% of the time. I figured I may as well go for as much light as I can without getting overly stupid about it.


With 350 lumens through a TIR optic producing 12,000 lux at one meter, long run time, uber-quality construction and a lifetime warranty, the light is nicely spec'ed for weapon use. It's also a really nice light for other (normal, hand held) uses. The switch is forward-clicky but is recessed in the cap and takes quite a push to lock it on.

The Vltor mount is working out nicely as well, placed on the top of the BCM KMR rail all the way forward (my Magpul offset BUIS only had to be moved back a few notches).

The light and mount together weigh 8 ounces, which compared to something like the Arisaka 300 is a bit heavy. But then again quick, tool-less mounting means the light doesn't live on the rifle.

Sighting imaginary zombies in my back yard in the dark with the Leupold set to 1.25X and the scope's red dot turned on, the M61T MD2 provides plenty of illumination for target acquisition/identification all the way out to the edge of the woods about 50 yards away. With the light mounted in the 11 o'clock position, it does not enter the field of view even at the VX-R's lowest setting.

After I've shot all the zombies with it mounted on the carbine).

I've been told that a WML should remain on the weapon 24/7 but since I'm too stubborn to listen, I'm so far happy with this approach. I'll post a few more photos when Gene sends me the Hound Dog.

Thanks for posting the pic and links. Interestingly over the past couple of days I've been talking to Gene about a recommendation for a WML myself. I have have mounted TRL-1HL's but I'm concerned about durability. I have a couple of SBR's that need to move out of the shadows into the light and I'm really looking forward to getting his lights installed on my rifles.
I've been debating mounts myself so I appreciate your comments there.
But is the only reason you do not want to keep the light affixed on your weapon due to keeping it lightweight? Did I misunderstand you that the only time the light will be on the rifle is when you are at the range? Or in the case?
I'm not sure why you would train with it in one configuration and then when SHTF place it in a different configuration if that's what you're saying. I think you are putting the light on when you train. (After re-reading your post.)

Look forward to seeing the rest of the pics. I'd really like to see a side view shot of the WML.




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[Uprange41]

For an 8+ ounce setup, can I ask why you didn't just run an X300U-A? Or even an X300U-B, with the thumbscrew? They only weigh 4 ounces with batteries, and both versions are very easily removed.

[Canonshooter]

But is the only reason you do not want to keep the light affixed on your weapon due to keeping it lightweight? Did I misunderstand you that the only time the light will be on the rifle is when you are at the range? Or in the case?

Look forward to seeing the rest of the pics. I'd really like to see a side view shot of the WML.

The light always stays on the rifle when stored in the safe. If I pull the rifle out to go to the range to check zero, do precision shooting off the bench, practice field positions, etc., the light comes off as taking half-a-pound off the end of the rifle makes my recreational shooting activities more enjoyable.

If I want to use the light for non-weapon purposes, I can easily pull it off the rifle. Though I have plenty of other good lights for this as well, I like the Malkoff. It goes right back on the rifle when I'm done.

When the opportunities arise I participate in low-light, live-fire drills (IDPA matches). Our local outdoor range only allows shooting a half hour after sun set, so not much opportunity for this kind of training/practice. I do low-light dry-fire drills in my house and back yard, practicing light activation, target acquisition, etc. so not all is lost.

All of this said, my primary HD weapon is a Glock 17 with an Inforce APL attached (24/7), which I practice shooting and light activations/control at a local indoor range. My primary self-defense weapon is a Walther PPS in 9mm, which I carry pretty regularly and practice using a hand held light (typically a SF PR1). But should I need (for whatever reason) to reach for the carbine, it's ready to go with the light mounted and the 18650 Li-ion battery fully charged.

I'll post a few more pics this weekend!

[Canonshooter]

For an 8+ ounce setup, can I ask why you didn't just run an X300U-A? Or even an X300U-B, with the thumbscrew? They only weigh 4 ounces with batteries, and both versions are very easily removed.

I actually had a X300 and ran it at 12 o'clock on the front of the KMR. For illumination purposes it was absolutely perfect in that spot but at 1.25X it blacked out about 1/4 of my view through the scope. I didn't like it mounted on an accessory rail at 9 o'clock and figured it wouldn't be much better with a (permanently attached, right where my thumb normally goes) accessory rail at 10 - 11 o'clock. Not to mention it sucked hand held use.

Interestingly, when I ran a RDS it didn't bother me mounted on the front of the rail at 12.

[Uprange41]

I actually had a X300 and ran it at 12 o'clock on the front of the KMR. For illumination purposes it was absolutely perfect in that spot but at 1.25X it blacked out about 1/4 of my view through the scope. I didn't like it mounted on an accessory rail at 9 o'clock and figured it wouldn't be much better with a (permanently attached, right where my thumb normally goes) accessory rail at 10 - 11 o'clock. Not to mention it sucked hand held use.

Interestingly, when I ran a RDS it didn't bother me mounted on the front of the rail at 12.

Ah, I didn't consider the scope. Makes sense.

Just make sure you keep fresh batteries in the light if you use it hand-held.

[Canonshooter]

Look forward to seeing the rest of the pics. I'd really like to see a side view shot of the WML.

A few more photos - the bottom photo is the most "straight on" to the left side of the rifle to show WML positioning.

There are mounts that will pull the light in closer to the rail (like the Arisaka) but non of them are tool-less/QD. Also, the barrel shadow with this set up is virtually non-existent.

Rifle weight as shown = 7 lbs./15 ounces.

[contax_shooter]

You could probably get by with Unity Tactical front sight setup using the offset picatinny rail and a x300/WML/TLR-1

[RobertTheTexan]

You could probably get by with Unity Tactical front sight setup using the offset picatinny rail and a x300/WML/TLR-1

As an FYI the TRL-1HL is on sale Primary Arms for $99.99. If you are a non-Texas resident that is a killer deal. We Texans have to pay .0825 sales tax so it's not as good of a deal but I still picked one up. Here's the link...
http://www.primaryarms.com/streamlig...black-stl69260

Once you add it to your cart you'll see the $99.99 price.



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[Canonshooter]

You could probably get by with Unity Tactical front sight setup using the offset picatinny rail and a x300/WML/TLR-1

I'm running a Magpul offset BUIS set now so replacing the front sight wasn't in the cards.

A few other advantages of this set up;

- the light and mount detach quickly leaving no extra mounting accessory on the rifle
- this light can run on high-capacity/high draw Li-ion rechargeable batteries (the X300, TRL-1, etc. can only use CR123 primaries)
- this light with h M61T head can also use CR123 primary cells if needed (greater flexibility in power source). The HD head requires the Li-ion battery due to higher current draw.
- I think I already mentioned that the Malkoff MD2 series is also a superb hand held light too for use with a pistol

Finally, like the X300 I specifically wanted a more concentrated beam for the carbine. The lumen rating of a light tells us nothing about the shape of the beam. For example, the TRL-1HL is rated at 800 lumens but only 15,000 candela, indicating it has a pretty wide (flood type) beam, though probably a decent central hot spot. On the other hand, the Streamlight Super Tac X only has a 200 lumen rating but a 40,000 candela rating, meaning the beam is much more focused (more "throw"). The Malkoff M61T head is rated at 350 lumens/12,000 lux and the Hound Dog 18650 at 900 lumens/29,000 lux, an ideal beam pattern for longer range use on a carbine with excellent throw and adequate spill.

Beam pattern can be wide or concentrated depending on the intended use/mission. Understanding the relationship between lumens and candela (or lux) can help us decide which light is the best choice for how we intend to use it.

Sorry for all of the flashlight techno drivel...