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Thread: Zeroing Problem. seriously.

  1. #11
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    Recommend you zero at 50.

    First, zero the Aimpoint. Don't worry about where the irons are. Remove the BUIS if you want to.

    Next, turn Aimpoint off and zero the irons. Make windage adjustments using the windage on the rear BUIS, make elevation adjustments using the front sight post.

    The LT mount should allow 1/3 cowitness. When you are done you should find that with a normal cheekweld, the Aimpoint dot is centered in the glass and the irons are well below the dot, in the lower third of the glass. To use the irons at this point you'll need to adjust your cheekweld. When you do you ought to see the dot right on top of the FSP, but it will still be in the lower third of the glass.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Generally a 25 yd zero is recommended against. POA/POI at 25 is very limited in use- the organizations that use a 25 yds zero are generally using the rear sight set at 6/3 +2 (for M4s IIRC) which they dial back down to 6/3 once zeroed. This is not applicable for you since you are using the Troy rear.

    I only use 25 yds for initial correction and then move onto 50 yards or 200 yards, depending on range constrictions.
    At 25 yds POI should be roughly 1" below POA.
    Once that is achieved you will be ready for 50 or 200 yd refinement.

    I generally prefer to zero the irons first with the dot turned off. Then adjust the dot so it sits at the tip of the front sight and confirm by shooting with the dot centered in the optic.

    Just my .02

    You said "At 25 yds POI should be roughly 1" below POA." Mine was like 3"+ below.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmart View Post
    Recommend you zero at 50.

    First, zero the Aimpoint. Don't worry about where the irons are.

    next, zero the irons. Make windage adjustments using the windage on the rear BUIS, make elevation adjustments using the front sight post.

    The LT mount should allow 1/3 cowitness. When you are done you should find that with a normal cheekweld, the Aimpoint dot is centered in the glass and the irons are well below the dot, in the lower third of the glass. To use the irons at this point you'll need to adjust your cheekweld. When you do you ought to see the dot right on top of the FSP, but it will still be in the lower third of the glass.
    This is what I was trying to do but the Dot appeared half way down the Front sight post. and that was at 25yards. If i go for 50yards most likely the dot will be even lower on the front sight post. maybe almost sitting on the front sight base.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballsout View Post
    You said "At 25 yds POI should be roughly 1" below POA." Mine was like 3"+ below.
    Uh, that would indicate that you need to move your POI up about 2" - about 6 to 8 clicks on the front sight post (which will drive your front sight down).

    The close range you zeroed your Aimpoint along with an unzeroed iron system has made the discrepancy seem larger than it really is.
    Last edited by Failure2Stop; 09-20-08 at 20:41. Reason: click value
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Uh, that would indicate that you need to move your POI up about 2" - about 4-6 clicks on the front sight post (which will drive your front sight down).

    The close range you zeroed your Aimpoint along with an unzeroed iron system has made the discrepancy seem larger than it really is.
    Correct I need to move my POI up. So turn the front sight post about 1 full - 1 1/2 turns which should make the post sit lower in the FSB. correct?

  6. #16
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    Yes it will sit lower in the fsb

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballsout View Post
    Correct I need to move my POI up. So turn the front sight post about 1 full - 1 1/2 turns which should make the post sit lower in the FSB. correct?
    Yes, you are about 6 to 8 clicks low (edited above, brain fart due to 25 yd distance). Work off of the little detents in the front sight, but it will be roughly 1 and 1/2 to 2 full rotations.

    Don't forget to rezero the Aimpoint as well.

    If possible confirm zero at 50 (min) or 200 yards (preferred).
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  8. #18
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    I'm running the exact same set up, 6920, ML3 on a LaRue cant mount, and a Troy battle rear.

    Although I have not tried to zero for 25, I had no problem with a 50 yard zero.

    Haven't had an Aimpoint come zeroed out of a box yet. They are close, but not right on.

    Failure2Stop said;
    I generally prefer to zero the irons first with the dot turned off. Then adjust the dot so it sits at the tip of the front sight and confirm by shooting with the dot centered in the optic.


    Yep, what he said..........I find it easier to zero the dot.

    You should be 1 1/4"-1 3/8" low at 25 yards for a 50 yard zero.
    If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Yes, you are about 6 to 8 clicks low (edited above, brain fart due to 25 yd distance). Work off of the little detents in the front sight, but it will be roughly 1 and 1/2 to 2 full rotations.

    Don't forget to rezero the Aimpoint as well.

    If possible confirm zero at 50 (min) or 200 yards (preferred).
    The only thing I'd add is if the Aimpoint is currently zeroed, leave it alone. You zero the Aimpoint independently of the irons.

    When you get around to zeroing the irons, turn the Aimpoint off. And I would use the small aperture when zeroing.

    You should find that when the irons are zeroed with a proper sight picture, that post and aperture will be in the lower third of the Aimpoint's window. And when transitioning from one sighting system to the other, you'll have to make a minute cheekweld shift.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmart View Post
    The only thing I'd add is if the Aimpoint is currently zeroed, leave it alone. You zero the Aimpoint independently of the irons.
    He zeroed it for POA/POI at 25 yd. I was recommending rezeroing it for 1" low at 25 and refinement at 50.
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

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