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Thread: Buffers / Supressors / Backpressure - WTF?

  1. #21
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    Bigthunder - care to share that source? I'd pick up a case or two for that price.

    JoshNC - thanks for the confirmation.

    DNW - how do they run with heavy lube?

    MrWilson - thank you for the tip - good price too. Ever chronoed the same bullet weight Silver Bear vs Wolf out of the same tube?

    M4 - Nice tip on non jacketed frangible - I didn't know that.

    Thank you all again

  2. #22
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    Negative on the chrono.

    Maybe someone else can chime in on Bear Vs. Wolf Velocity.

  3. #23
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    Here is a link to the ammo source:http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=111474501
    If this one is no longer available,click on "seller's other auctions".He has plenty.

  4. #24
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    big - thanks, I'll check it out.

  5. #25
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    Face,

    I am not saying heavy lube is a fix, it just reduces the failure rate probably because you reduce the friction in the system. As soon as the gun starts to dry out, the failure rate increases ( this is true with all barrel lengths, it is just worse with the shorter barrels). This is with the Remmington frangible we use (also jacketed). When we are doing a training day on the range with this ammo, I have folks keep their bolts wet to keep the guns working. When they clean up and go back to duty, I dont recommend "heavy" lube.

  6. #26
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    DNW - same / same here. I like Tetra grease and a hint of Tetra oil but nothing heavy. Failures are definately reduced with heavy lube and light loads. Post a fix if you find one. I think I will pick up an H2 buffer and see what happens.

  7. #27
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    Just a little update on this -

    Something in the back of my mind said "confirm the ability to lock back with factory ammo".

    So I had some BH 75s and AE 63's - one round in the mag, 3 mags - none worked.

    Light bulb goes on.

    I pulled the rail and the FS and checked the gas tube.

    I pulled the bolt and slid the carrier fore and aft in the receiver several times confirming that there was zero resistance at the gas tube.

    I then grabbed an old 20 rnd (empty) and inserted it and pulled the charging handle all the way to the rear - no lock back.

    The bolt catch felt gritty so I pulled it out and smoothed it with a flat file and emory cloth, a hit of Tetra grease and smidge of Tetra oil and reinstalled it. Still no joy. Still felt a little grabby on the front side and the spring tension was over the top. So I pulled it again and really looked at - I am not convinced that the cast peice (CMT LPK) is vertically plumb and think that causes the rub - cuz it smooth after my efforts with the file and emory cloth. Instead of screwing with the geometry of the part I attacked the other issue - the spring tension. I clipped 1.5 coils. After lubing and putting it back together I tried that same (empty 20rnd mag) - bingo. Works like a charm. That said, 1.5 coils was too much to clip - with the mag out and the bolt locked back any kind of a bump to the weapon (anywhere) will release the bolt. So I need a new bolt catch spring. In the mean time I think I will pull this apart again and stretch the spring to get the tension I need.

    I *think* the gun will run and lock back with Wolf after this. I will stretch the spring and run some Wolf (and factory good stuff) later in the week and update.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Face_N_The_Crowd View Post
    Just a little update on this -

    Something in the back of my mind said "confirm the ability to lock back with factory ammo".

    So I had some BH 75s and AE 63's - one round in the mag, 3 mags - none worked.

    Light bulb goes on.

    I pulled the rail and the FS and checked the gas tube.

    I pulled the bolt and slid the carrier fore and aft in the receiver several times confirming that there was zero resistance at the gas tube.

    I then grabbed an old 20 rnd (empty) and inserted it and pulled the charging handle all the way to the rear - no lock back.

    The bolt catch felt gritty so I pulled it out and smoothed it with a flat file and emory cloth, a hit of Tetra grease and smidge of Tetra oil and reinstalled it. Still no joy. Still felt a little grabby on the front side and the spring tension was over the top. So I pulled it again and really looked at - I am not convinced that the cast peice (CMT LPK) is vertically plumb and think that causes the rub - cuz it smooth after my efforts with the file and emory cloth. Instead of screwing with the geometry of the part I attacked the other issue - the spring tension. I clipped 1.5 coils. After lubing and putting it back together I tried that same (empty 20rnd mag) - bingo. Works like a charm. That said, 1.5 coils was too much to clip - with the mag out and the bolt locked back any kind of a bump to the weapon (anywhere) will release the bolt. So I need a new bolt catch spring. In the mean time I think I will pull this apart again and stretch the spring to get the tension I need.

    I *think* the gun will run and lock back with Wolf after this. I will stretch the spring and run some Wolf (and factory good stuff) later in the week and update.
    Bad idea cutting the buffer spring, if it's a match rifle not so much so.

    buffer spring lengths should be:
    CAR 10 1/16" to 11 1/4"
    Rifle 11 3/4" to 13 1/2"

    For weaker ammo use a short CAR buffer spring closer to the bottom end of the spec.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotm4 View Post
    Bad idea cutting the buffer spring, if it's a match rifle not so much so.

    I think he cut the plunger spring on the bolt catch.... not the buffer spring.

    I had a gun I had to do this with too. That was a bitch to diagnos.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  10. #30
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    Yes - bolt catch plunger spring; but I do appreciate the advice not to snip the buffer spring - a few weeks ago that seemed like a reasonable idea. Now based on both of your reccommendation and some additional reading - not so much.


    Demi - did you get lucky with the amount you snipped off the first time? Or bettter put - if a stock spring was too strong how did you get to the point where you had enough spring tension so that you had to use the bolt release to send it home but not so much that it would not lock back with an empty mag?

    I am thinking that I may get a Colt bolt catch and a Colt spring and if the tension is too much just gently apply pressure to the collapsed spring instead of clipping it. Thoughts?

    Again I will try stretching the one I have on hand first.

    Thank you again.

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