LOWER RECEIVERS QUALITY

[w3453l]

You asked if all lowers are created equally. (More or less). While the number of true lower manufacturers are far fewer than those who sell, it is my understanding that one of the differences are wis the level of quality assurance inspections. I am referring to the X out of XX lowers that gets inspected kind of QC. The higher the ratio, the more bad lowers that are caught, the better the lower that is available to the consumer. I believe the inexpensive lowers have fewer QC checks, because it generally takes a person to do that visual inspection and people cost money and that money is one of the factors of consumer cost. That said I have also experienced quality issues where you would think there wouldn't be an issue. And I have had lowers where so many on here have said they are a POS, but mine worked better than the expensive "name-brand". So all I can do is offer up what my sampling of data is.
All my AR's are from stripped lowers.
I've built 6 Aero Precision lowers. They have all had a consistent fit and finish. I have not had a single problem and honestly when I want to build, I'm going to probably buy an Aero. I use DSG Arms LPK, in all my builds.
I have built one Noveke Gen 2 lower. It had the absolute best finish of any lower I have bought. It just doesn't match with any upper. But meh... don't really care. But fit and function were perfect. I prefer the Gen 2 because I use Redi-Mag's on all CQ rifles.
I have owned two KAC stripped lowers. One I sent back, the replacement I kept. (Excellent customer service.) Good thing I don't wig out on the finish, because this one has issues. It's chalky whitish. Weird. But it shoots and the KAC trigger guard even fit (can I get an amen?)
I own two Anderson lowers. My very first build was an Anderson. This was in 2014. I shot the mess out of it before reading here that it was....ahem... a bad lower. Unfortunately it still keeps operating as advertised. Caveat, it has a CMC trigger which uses anti-walk screws so... I don't know if standard pins would walk out. I have just read on another thread that anti walk pins are borne from the bowels of hell and are evil, but I put those opines in the "DGAFBA Category". I have one Anderson 80% and if the trigger pins walk out of that it's my own fault since I made them. So that doesn't really count.
So BLUF?
I buy Aero's because in my experience they are well made and I have had ZERO issues.
I bought the Noveske for a very special build, but they are expensive. I bought the KAC because it was a KAC stripped lower (and pretty expensive. But If you check my spare part bins, you will find Aero stripped lowers, some built out, others waiting for a project.
I would recommend Aero lowers all day long.



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Sorry to drift off topic, I've had this "chalky finish" on a lower and just rubbed some CLP over it. I did this a couple times with about a day or two in between. The "chalky" spots disappeared. The CLP I used was Breakfree.

It might be worth a try if the white spots bother you. It wasn't a big deal for me, but I remember Ayan from Boltcarrier recommended it and I thought I'd try it out.

To the OP, I did have a friend that built three lowers using Anderson receivers. The first one came out fine, but the next two needed KNS pins. Now all three were bought at the same time, so they could have came from a single batch. Which would explain the two out of three that were out of spec.

The way I look at it is that as far as forged lowers go, the price ranges don't span very far. In other words, lets say the cheapest price you find is $30, the most expensive will be about $150. With plenty of quality receivers with a price in between. I think I remember seeing Sionics stripped lowers for about $70ish.

The lower is the serialized part, so you might as well just invest the extra few dollars for piece of mind. You'll probably still end up spending close to equal or greater amount on just the grip and handguard.

*The price range of $30 - $150 mentioned above was just from what I have seen for plain aluminum forged lowers. I know there are exceptions like the Noveske Gen II and Umbrella Corporation lowers that go for more.

[tom12.7]

I would generally agree with the above post concerning QA and QC. There's a lot that can wrong. I've worked in quality departments when I really didn't want to.

[26 Inf]

I think the quote by Grant is right on the money. However, the chances of getting a bad one typically increases with lower cost. It's not just about volume. Good manufacturing processes and QC will catch a lot of issues so the end user won't have to. This costs more money. How much is YOUR time worth? Didn't realize that you could do QC at home in your spare time for free?

Sure, every MFG can send out a bad product, but it is far more likely with the inexpensive brands, and they could also hang you out to dry with regard to warranty and/or replacement as well. Or, they'll keep sending out a defective replacement until you want to cry and give up. Seen it first hand.

replaced lowers that had issues related to FCG hole location. One was sent to Geissele for troubleshooting because their SSA trigger didn't reset and they determined it was the lower. Another didn't have enough clearance on the mag well side to allow hammer install, and yet another wouldn't allow installation of the trigger with the safety installed. A few quick measurements is all that it took to discover the hidden cost of low prices.

I'm not discounting any experiences anyone else has had, and I agree there is a possibility that QC checks are not as stringent with more inexpensive mafgrs.

But damn, some of you guys have the damnedest luck. I've put together 11 using PSA stripped lowers, 3 using Alexandria Pro-Fab (from Aim) and one (my first) using a lower Sully made. No drama they all run fine.

I thought one of the PSA's had the selector hole bored too low, but it turned out to be the trigger from a LPK I bought from Brownells (I don't remember the source or if Brownell's even noted it).

As someone mentioned, as long as the FCG fits and functions, and the mag inserts, retains, and drops as it should, who gives a shit, the accuracy, and arguably most of the reliability, lives in the upper.

I'm on an Alexandria Pro-Fab kick at the present, not because they have a secret sauce or anything of that nature, simply because the 3 lowers I bought functioned fine AND they didn't have roll marks.

JM .02 YMMV

[Fatorangecat]

I bought a Noveske lower and it was horribly finished. I ended up having to have it replaced. The replacement was very nicely finished. Buying a particular brand will not guarantee it is nicely finished but it will guarantee that it is the appropriate material and hardness. If you want pretty you need to inspect it in person.

[C4IGrant]

Let me get this straight: out of the several who have purchased Anderson lowers at your club in recent years, every single person has issues with their pins walking? Every single one? Okay.

Low tier crap? Sigh.. it's not even worth the effort.

OP, just pick a lower with the rollmark you like best and chances are you'll be good.

Yes, Anderson is very low end. No, not all lowers are equal. Not all companies follow a standard (let alone the TDP).


C4

[C4IGrant]

When asked about which lower to buy, who said this:

"As long as mags drop free and the dims are correct, I don't think it matters. What is much more important are the internal inside of it!"

Look, I'm not advocating against those mentioned brands. My point is this: for people to tell the OP, essentially, that unless he sticks to those mentioned brands of lowers he would be buying junk, is disingenuous.

Now, the OP didn't specify whether he wanted a stripped lower or a complete one. If buying complete, I certainly would push for those mentioned brands as the internals are likely to be of a high quality.

But for a stripped lower, like the person quoted above, as long as its in spec and the mags drop free, they are essentially all the same.

Oh, and to put a name to the quote above, it was C4IGrant.

And just so its clear, my arguments are strictly about stripped lowers, which seemed to be what OP was asking about.

Once again, I bow out. For good this time.

OP, good luck with your choice and enjoy your new build.

I no longer get consumed with roll marks as I have learned that people don't care. It is all about what appeals to them (and their budget). With that said, we have seen to many Anderson lowers in our shop (with something wrong) to recommend them. YMMV.


C4

[VanceMMA]

I need a fde matched reciever set. Anderson is 100 dollars cheaper than the Spikes and I'm not sure if I'm really giving up anything. I think ill go for it. Although I have a couple Spike lowers already and I like them a lot...

[Iraqgunz]

I'd rather have unprotected sex with a tranny than purchase a stripped Anderson lower. Consistently across the board I have seen more issues with them, than an other lower.

[CLee0509]

I need a fde matched reciever set. Anderson is 100 dollars cheaper than the Spikes and I'm not sure if I'm really giving up anything. I think ill go for it. Although I have a couple Spike lowers already and I like them a lot...

I've been really happy with an Aero FDE set I picked up recently, Monmouth Reloading always has them at a great price.

I own BCM, Noveske gen 1 and gen 2, Spikes, Anderson and my latest Aero. Comparing them closely, looking at every corner inside and out, I can not find a single difference between my Spikes and Anderson.
My Noveske gen 1 is one of their latest versions I believe, it is marked 'Safe' and 'Semi', others I've saw have been marked 'Fire'. The forging is quite different than all my other lowers. The Noveske gen. 2 as everybody knows is in league of its own.
My Aero lower most closely matches my BCM lower....it is slightly different in front of the pivot pin area though but they are very much alike on the outside at least and are my favorites.

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[RichinVA]

......... it has a CMC trigger which uses anti-walk screws so... I don't know if standard pins would walk out........

I would be surprised if they didn't, as the CMC trigger spring legs don't engage the grooves in a mil-spec pin.