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Thread: Best sub-$200 trigger?

  1. #11
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    As to the Jard, you'd have to call them and ask the difference. They have a website and I have talked to them...

    IMHO the quality of the pull is excellent; perhaps the more expensive ones could be better--but if so it would be wasted on me. All I know is that I wish all my weapons had pulls as good.

    I opted for the non-adjustable in pursuit of the KISS principle. It can't un-adjust.

  2. #12
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    To me it comes down to how much you plan on shooting. If it's a couple hundred rounds a year, then anybody will do really. Heck...we've got stock triggers that we tune, down to a crisp 2.5-3#. Would I shoot 3-Gun with it? Nope.

    At the higher levels, shooters are going through 20-30k of ammo a year. I got back from A-Stan in February and have only put 10k through my primary 3-Gun rifle, and haven't done enough practice for FTB-3G in December. Probably another 10k before the match though.

    For that level. JP is it for me.

    Rich

  3. #13
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    I have a RRA WOA tuned trigger on my SPR, but what is the consensus on the LMT 2-Stage? It cost a tad more ($149) than the RRA / WOA.
    "I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night..."

  4. #14
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    Thanx for all the info - and as for how much it gets shot, it's still a new rifle, I bought it for duty work overseas (private security)... but in between that, I normally shoot about 10 - 12.5K rounds a year in this particular caliber, training and competing combined - and I hope to try 3-gun soon, and intend on using this rifle when I do. It's purpose was to serve as a SDM rifle, and the trigger is the last thing left to mod before it's finished..
    Can someone elaborate to me a bit about the difference between 1/2 stage triggers?
    Also, is the WOA RRA trigger adjustable? Or is it set to a specific pull weight at the factory? Thanx again, everyone.
    "A government big enough to give you what you want, is strong enough to take what you have." -T. Jefferson

  5. #15
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    I have the 3# Timney on an M&P15T with no complaints. Fine trigger, very nice face & crisp break, but I only use it for the range. Perhaps the 4# may be a better choice for training, but that's not my forte. Only factor in choosing it for me was the price I got it for vs the competitors (150 shipped), but no regrets whatsoever.
    WARNING!
    There ain't no more continues, dog...

  6. #16
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    Nice... what about the JP modular trigger? It's a bit out of my price range, but if it's worth it, I can save a little longer... And, how much does a good Geiselle cost approximately? Are they adjustable (easily)?
    Please excuse my ignorance on this subject, as I said, AR triggers are an unexplored country to me... seems to be nothing like bolt rifle triggers..
    Thanx very much for all the reples...
    So far, I am thinking of getting a 3 lb. Timney, just for ease of use/install, but I would rather have something a bit more "professional" and easily adjustable..
    "A government big enough to give you what you want, is strong enough to take what you have." -T. Jefferson

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damascus View Post
    Can someone elaborate to me a bit about the difference between 1/2 stage triggers?
    In a two stage trigger, you have an initial pull that's just short of the 'break' point and you'll have a tactile feel where it will stop (stage 1). The second stage is the actual 'break' stage. If you've shot some of the more recent offerings in polymer pistols, you've more than likely experienced a two-stage trigger feel.

    In a single stage trigger, it's much more firm, but when you press it, it just goes bang. Most standard AR triggers are single stage albeit typically heavy - anywhere from 6 - 9#'s stock.
    WARNING!
    There ain't no more continues, dog...

  8. #18
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    Damascus - The JP Modular is AWESOME! I picked one up to try and it's just great. Basically, it does a couple of things that other modulars don't and then some.

    First, you get a great single stage trigger. JP is the standard. Second, because of varying tolerances of lowers, they allow for this by including a modified thumb safety (not 100% necessary, but it's great) to help the alignment and end function of the system. Finally, it just makes the install of the JP fire control system brainless. Not that the standard one is difficult. I'm mechanically inclined and it's easier for some.

    Rich

  9. #19
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    Well then... that's got me thinking about the JP modular now... any other owners here care to discuss your feelings about said product?
    @Liquid Rhino - Thanx for elaborating on that for me. My S&W M&P15T feels like it has a pull stage before it stops on a stiffer point, before finally breaking... does my Smith have a 2 stage trigger?

    Comparing 1 and 2 stage triggers, which would be best for SDM combat use? In other words, which one would be more prone to an AD if the rifle were dropped on the butt, and the trigger was set very light? Or is there no difference? Like I said, I want a very light and crisp trigger pull, but I also would like to be able to bounce the rifle on it's butt without it discharging.
    Thanx again for all the help - you guys are great!
    "A government big enough to give you what you want, is strong enough to take what you have." -T. Jefferson

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damascus View Post
    @Liquid Rhino - Thanx for elaborating on that for me. My S&W M&P15T feels like it has a pull stage before it stops on a stiffer point, before finally breaking... does my Smith have a 2 stage trigger?
    Nope. It's a single stage from factory... The S&W's stock trigger is a little on the heavy side vs. other stock AR's from what I've shot among my friend's various rifles.

    Here's the Timney 3# (solid, non-skeletonized) on my M&P15T, much like yours:




    Hope this helps.
    WARNING!
    There ain't no more continues, dog...

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