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Thread: Secure your gas block, please...

  1. #41
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    I love rocksett for set screws. I'll stake my set screws or use rocksett, or BOTH.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  2. #42
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    HMac: Since you don't receive PM's here goes:

    As Rayrevolver posted: From what I remember when I first joined M4C in 2006, it was pinned GB and thats it! And then BCM came along without pins and made it work.

    As Iraqgunz mentions, the company that he works for, as well as several others, use dimpled and set-screwed gas blocks.

    Here's my take:

    1. Unless you have a fixture to hold the barrel and gas-block absolutely aligned to mill the roll pin channel, it is necessary to first dimple and then set-screw the gas-block in order to drill the roll pin channel.

    2. In terms of production time, in a true manufacturing facility, slapping the assembly into a fixture, boring the channels for the pins, and then using a press to set the pins is probably most cost effective then dimpling and set-screwing.

    3. Another alternative would be to spec barrels with the channel for the gas-block roll pin milled. This would add a step to the barrel manufacturing process and, therefore, add cost to the barrel. I know somebody does this because I've purchased several barrels with the channels for gas block roll pins, here is an example: http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/gm-m40-...kout-ar15-1-7/

    4. The cost of producing a gas-block held in place by a roll pin would be less expensive than that of producing a gas-block held in place by two set-screws. BUT, aftermarket producers are selling to folks that generally don't have access to to the equipment to install a pinned gas-block, so they produce gas-blocks which the DIY'er can install with a modicum of common sense and simple tools.

    5. An assembler that is putting together rifles in the hundreds, rather than the thousands, is probably going to source parts from these suppliers, rather than contract for a run of gas-blocks built to their specs.

    So, if you look at the personalities involved, and the advertisers on this site, it is understandable that the bias toward pinned gas-blocks has shifted.

    There is no doubted, that a 'properly' installed set-screw gas-block will be robust enough for normal use. Early on in my DIY career I removed an ALG tube which had been installed on a barrel with a dimpled and set-screwed Geissele gas block. I expected the tube to slide off, it didn't. I thought dayum, is it corroded? So I used a hardwood block to tap the tube forward. This initally took more force than I expected, to my embarrassment when the tube slid off I found that I had smeared the end of the rear socket screw used on the m-lok bipod mount installed on the tube. The gas-block hadn't budged.

    All that being said, I wore a reserve parachute for over 150 military and civilian jumps, never needed it, didn't think I would, but still wore it. That being said, Geiselle makes their gas-blocks to be screwed and if you want pinned. I'm doing both.

    YMMV
    Last edited by 26 Inf; 03-09-18 at 13:23.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I love rocksett for set screws. I'll stake my set screws or use rocksett, or BOTH.
    Locktite the set screws, then stake them.

    Done. Sleep well at night.

  4. #44
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    A. Loctite works when done correctly.

    B. Rocksett would require soaking in water to loosen the screws.

    C. With the frequency that some people seem to tear apart their guns and dick with them, Rocksett doesn't seem smart.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fluke View Post
    What's your opinion on Rocksett vs Red Loctite for dimpled set-screw jobs? The recent Rocksett thread made a good argument for using it vs Red Loctite, higher temp resistance plus easier to remove if needed.

    And what about wicking Green Loctite? Wouldn't its wicking ability also chemically secure the entire gas block to the barrel making it a very strong attachment method?

    Pros and cons of Rocksett vs Red vs Green Loctite for dimpled set-screw gas blocks? Temperature resistance, strength, ease of removal if needed? Would love to hear opinions from the professionals here.



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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    A. Loctite works when done correctly.

    B. Rocksett would require soaking in water to loosen the screws.

    C. With the frequency that some people seem to tear apart their guns and dick with them, Rocksett doesn't seem smart.
    Thanks IG, could you please give us your opinion on the correct application of Loctite on set-screw secured gas blocks? You are using Red but only a tiny bit on the dimpled set screw(s) correct?

    Does the Red tend to wick and also bond the gas block to the barrel journal?

    And how about the Green wicking Loctite? Have you used it and have an opinion on it? Would it be a good choice for those who don't have (or want to) drill dimples for the set screws?

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    You can stake the set screws.
    I was wondering the same thing.

  7. #47
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    We clean the screws and then apply a small amount to the screw(s) and put them into the block. Both screws receive the Loctite. I am sure there is a little leakage, but we don't bathe them in Loctite.

    By green Loctite I am assuming you mean Loctite 609 retaining compound? If so, that has VERY LIMITED applications as it is very difficult to remove anything once applied.

    I can't really speak to the efficacy as I do not use it, nor do I recommend the installation without a proper dimple.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fluke View Post
    Thanks IG, could you please give us your opinion on the correct application of Loctite on set-screw secured gas blocks? You are using Red but only a tiny bit on the dimpled set screw(s) correct?

    Does the Red tend to wick and also bond the gas block to the barrel journal?

    And how about the Green wicking Loctite? Have you used it and have an opinion on it? Would it be a good choice for those who don't have (or want to) drill dimples for the set screws?



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    We clean the screws and then apply a small amount to the screw(s) and put them into the block. Both screws receive the Loctite. I am sure there is a little leakage, but we don't bathe them in Loctite.

    By green Loctite I am assuming you mean Loctite 609 retaining compound? If so, that has VERY LIMITED applications as it is very difficult to remove anything once applied.

    I can't really speak to the efficacy as I do not use it, nor do I recommend the installation without a proper dimple.
    Yes, I was referring to Green 609 for cylindrical bonding. There is also Green 620 for even higher temperature applications. This method would be using the wicking properties to bond the whole gas port to the barrel journal, set-screws and all. I noticed that someone else in this thread had a recommendation for Green Loctite but didn't specify which type. He (Outlander Systems) may have been referring to using Green 209 on the set screws only.

    Care to comment Outlander Systems?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluke View Post
    Yes, I was referring to Green 609 for cylindrical bonding. There is also Green 620 for even higher temperature applications. This method would be using the wicking properties to bond the whole gas port to the barrel journal, set-screws and all. I noticed that someone else in this thread had a recommendation for Green Loctite but didn't specify which type. He (Outlander Systems) may have been referring to using Green 209 on the set screws only.

    Care to comment Outlander Systems?
    One of my main complaints to the AP 308 was no dimples on the barrel nor pinned gas block. Through my countless problems with that piece of junk I sent it back and they replaced several parts including the bcg, bolt, barrel and gas block. The bareel was so over gassed I had to install an adjustable gas block and they still did not dimple the barrel, instead... their fix was the green 609. Needless to say it was a bitch to get off.
    I would recommend against using locktite 609.
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlander Systems View Post
    In 2014, a RDS and a WML are pretty much mandatory for a defensive long-gun.

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    You should have your balls removed for posting such stupidity. This is not the other site...

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer_Man View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but the MK12s were all built using a low profile gas block held in place by set screws. It is known that the dimples on the Douglas barrel only line up with the rear most set screw of the gas block. So in essence you only have one dimple/set screw holding the gas block in place anyway. If I'm not mistaken the MK18s were also built using low profile gas blocks with set screws, and those are the tacticool fanboy halo guns.
    The MK18 cqbr urg built by crane uses colt barrels with the fsb removed, barrel is dimpled and set screw gas block is used. I believe it’s the same for other issued rifles with rails/ lo pro gas blocks.

    The uppers I have built with BCM barrels had deep enough dimples that I don’t see the gas block moving without shearing the set screw, which were installed with rockset.

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