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Thread: Castle Nut Torquing

  1. #21
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    I would highly recommend a reaction block instead of a magwell block for installing receiver extensions.

    And yes staking is a must. Its also not that hard to do , or undo for that matter.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegademiC View Post
    Buffer could bind, retainer pin or parts can bind up fcg. That said, i had a gun that loosened. Checking every couple mags worked until i upgraded the buffer and tube and got a wrench.

    The tighter, the more rounds until it comes loose. Its now staked.
    I get all that - mentioned it my post 'you might get the buffer detent and spring into place as debris that could potentially hang something up'

    I was curious that I might not have been thinking of something else that could happen since he called someone.
    Patriotism means to stand by the country. It does not mean to stand by the President... - Theodore Roosevelt, Lincoln and Free Speech, Metropolitan Magazine, Volume 47, Number 6, May 1918.

    Every Communist must grasp the truth. Political power grows out of the barrel of a gun. Our principle is that the Party commands the gun, and the gun must never be allowed to command the Party Mao Zedong, 6 November, 1938 - speech to the Communist Patry of China's sixth Central Committee

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dentron View Post
    I would highly recommend a reaction block instead of a magwell block for installing receiver extensions.
    Good advice, but a reaction block might be a little pricey for some. Alternative. Get some inexpensive rubber padded vise jaws. I clamp my REs into the padded jaws firmly, and canted so that the stock position track is braced against one face of the jaws such that it will not rotate when the castle nut is tightened. Then it's just a matter of tightening/torquing down using whatever wrench you use.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by elephantrider View Post
    Good advice, but a reaction block might be a little pricey for some. Alternative. Get some inexpensive rubber padded vise jaws. I clamp my REs into the padded jaws firmly, and canted so that the stock position track is braced against one face of the jaws such that it will not rotate when the castle nut is tightened. Then it's just a matter of tightening/torquing down using whatever wrench you use.
    This is a good cheaper alternative to the geissele

  5. #25
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