Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: Castle Nut Torquing

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Feedback Score
    0

    Castle Nut Torquing

    I am installing a QD end plate on my Colt and am need of some advice. The tools I used to get it off was the hammerhead tool with the lower secured in a Magpul Bev Block/vise. This was no issue. As far as putting it back together, I have a torque wrench and will use loctite C5A. My concern is with how the lower is secured in the bev block...would applying the proper torque spec cause any harm using this combo?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    9,577
    Feedback Score
    45 (100%)
    And why are you using Lotite? A castle nut should have an appropriate anti-seize compond applied, torqued to spec and staked in two places.

    I not seeing how a Bev block and Hammerhead combo would harm anything.
    Gettin' down innagrass.
    Let's Go Brandon!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by titsonritz View Post
    And why are you using Lotite? A castle nut should have an appropriate anti-seize compond applied, torqued to spec and staked in two places.

    I not seeing how a Bev block and Hammerhead combo would harm anything.
    Loctite C5A is anti seize, not threadlocker. I was more worried about possible stress or flex to the lower.
    Last edited by jschmitt08; 05-13-18 at 23:30.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    9,577
    Feedback Score
    45 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by jschmitt08 View Post
    Loctite C5A is anti seize, not threadlocker. I was more worried about possible stress or flex to the lower.
    Oops, duh, my apology.
    Gettin' down innagrass.
    Let's Go Brandon!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,689
    Feedback Score
    41 (100%)
    Torque spec is 40 ft. Lbs plus or minus 2, it's not a lot of torque. I've never used a Bev block to secure a lower, but if it secures through the mag well it should be fine. Just go slow, and stop if you feel like damage is being done.
    Last edited by Hammer_Man; 05-14-18 at 07:52.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    121
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer_Man View Post
    Torque spec is 40 plus or minus 2, it's not a lot of torque. I've never used a Bev block to secure a lower, but if it secures through the mag well it should be fine. Just go slow, and stop if you feel like damage is being done.
    Yes it will be secured through the magwell.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    201
    Feedback Score
    0
    Bev block will be fine. A magwell holder will also work just fine. Just support it with ur hard while doing s proper torque. And use the anti seize. And stake in 2 places. It will be good. You would be surprised how many top manufacturers for properly torque the castle nut


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    750
    Feedback Score
    19 (100%)
    I would highly recommend a reaction block instead of a magwell block for installing receiver extensions.

    And yes staking is a must. Its also not that hard to do , or undo for that matter.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    669
    Feedback Score
    18 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by dentron View Post
    I would highly recommend a reaction block instead of a magwell block for installing receiver extensions.
    Good advice, but a reaction block might be a little pricey for some. Alternative. Get some inexpensive rubber padded vise jaws. I clamp my REs into the padded jaws firmly, and canted so that the stock position track is braced against one face of the jaws such that it will not rotate when the castle nut is tightened. Then it's just a matter of tightening/torquing down using whatever wrench you use.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    750
    Feedback Score
    19 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by elephantrider View Post
    Good advice, but a reaction block might be a little pricey for some. Alternative. Get some inexpensive rubber padded vise jaws. I clamp my REs into the padded jaws firmly, and canted so that the stock position track is braced against one face of the jaws such that it will not rotate when the castle nut is tightened. Then it's just a matter of tightening/torquing down using whatever wrench you use.
    This is a good cheaper alternative to the geissele

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •