3d Printer shenanigans

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

PSssst. 0.6? My other printer runs a 0.8 nozzle . I have a tendency to run thinner layers since it seems to help with warping on ABS. Bed adhesion was driving me crazy until went with PETG, buildtack with some glue stick and a bit of heat. Just starting to get back to thicker layers. That 0.8 nozzle at 0.8 layers on a spiralized 'vase setting' cranks stuff out. I'm looking at printing less infill and figuring out a an expanding foamish fill that has fibers in it for better overall physical. There are layer issues, but to me the biggest issue is the slicing and the rendering of small holes and direct measurements. Not so much a calibration thing since gross objects are spot on, but in the past Cura and Slic3r both would undersize holes.

Designing parts is my real issue. Don't do it enough to get good at it.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

That is the other thing. Uproar about 3D printing guns- which has huge technical issues- but 'blue prints' for guns - especially AR lowers, have been out for years, and CNC machines that can make usable fire arms. There are videos of a machinist casting a block of brass and aluminium and just using a lower as a template, making an AR10 and AR15 lower.

Cat's been out of the bag for awhile- and it's kittens are 3D printing.

[turnburglar]

That's the other reason I laugh so hard at the 'ghost gun craze'. Real men have been able to make ghost guns in a proper shop, since the first man made a gun in a shop. They forget its 1950's tech sometimes, and some designs are even earlier than that ala 1911. I was just thinking that the issue isnt FDM 3D printing, the issue is most people want a design that was originally intended for forged Aluminium to fit in the exact same form factor as FDM plastics. A propper 3D printed lower could be a reality, it would just have to be designed from the ground up to be optimized for the manufacturing process.

Im using my GI bill to get a BS in aerospace engineering and havent had a good CAD class through my formal degree plan yet. To supplement that I downloaded Fusion 360 (autodesk) on my Mac and took free classes on udemy dot com. Overall I have had some minor buggy issues with fusion, but on the free educational license I cant complain at all. I dont have expereicne with solid works, but from what I hear modeling anything with fusion is dramatcially easier. One guy said something that would take a week to model in soldiworks would take only an afternoon in Fusion.

What materials have you printed? Get to CF nylon or PC yet?

[Doc Safari]

Check out the homemade weapons on these sites:

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/...made-firearms/

http://weaponsman.com/?p=19208

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/...aviv-shooting/

Those sites are just three I picked at random.

Google "homemade guns" in Google images and you'll see that 3D printing is simply adding the prospect of mass production to the improvised firearms trade.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

Getting into Fusion is my end goal for now. I started in Tinkercad and was getting OK with 123Design before the pulled the plug. I have Fusion on my Mac too, I'll try those tutorials you mentioned. When you can do something in Tinkercad, it is amazing. When you want to push the design a bit further- ugh, it is painful.

I don't like PLA- too brittle and I don't like printing with a fan, since that reduces interlayer adhesion. Did a lot in ABS. Made my own ABS filament on a Filastruder. Tried Taulman Nylons. Nylon and ABS were such a pain with warping and bed adhesion. It got to the point with either that I'd print with a brim and then tape the brim down with scotch tape as the head moved around. Not smart or a good solution. I had played with Taulman PET-G before, and liked it ok for 'vase' mode/single-wall extrusion. Thicker things didn't print well and I had to print slow. I don't know if Taulman changed their formula, but I get it to print much better now. I've done some in Taluman PCTPE- and mehhh- it is OK. Frankly not that stretchable.

Want to look at ninjaflex, the carbon fiber filled filaments, the metal filled and soluble supports next.

I have two Printrbots that run on the ceramic UBIS hot ends. I don't feel like re-engineering them both to take new ends. I might mod my single head PB+ to run a E3D V6. I'll probably go with a Prusa Mk3 with the multimaterial modification.

[turnburglar]

check out 3dxtech DOT com. They have all the regular filaments and most of the super exotic stuff that will drive you mad trying to print. I have been putting off buying my first printer because I kept telling myself: "they are getting better and cheaper every year, and I dont think the product has matured enough yet." I think that has finally changed with the creality Cr10 (5-900) and their new ender 3 which can be found under $200.

[JusticeM4]

While the anti's are so obsessed by 3D printed firearms, I wonder if they're also aware how easy it is for criminals to buy normal guns in the black market? why don't they focus on that instead of 3d printing parts, which is not widespread at this point and no criminal is using 3d firearms on a large scale (when they can just more easily buy illegal firearms).

[turnburglar]

So when I was saying earlier that you couldnt just 3D print a lower, I wasnt speaking from personal experience. When I found this video this morning I thought it would be really cool to check out how it went for this guy. He did use a fairly quality printer and a material that is known for being accurate over strong. Yet he still had a ton of dimensional tolerance issues. I honestly thought that the guy who made 3D printing guns famous would have atleast been able to deliver a model that a mag would fit into. Nope. Good luck getting all the other parts to fit, AND last. I could see the reciever breaking near the buffer tube pretty fast as well as the trigger pins walking out their holes pretty fast and locking the gun up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCbYBF5E3rc&t=833s

To skip to the important part go right too 6:15 minutes.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

Holes, holes, holes. I can never get them to print like I design them. The smaller, the more off they are. I don't think it is so much the printer, but the slicer that sends tells the printer where to put plastic. Frankly, to me, anything smaller than 1mm or located with in 1mm is too small for my system to print correctly.

[rero360]

Why not print it sans holes and then drill them out afterwards? I mean if you’re going to have to have secondary operations, I can think of worse.