FMCDH- Thats probably because the smaller holes are loosing tolerances to not only the resolution of the slicer and any mechanical innacuracies in printer, but now the thermal shrinkage is affecting the dimensional acccuracy. As you know with ABS it shrinks and warps alot going from a hot nozzle and heated bed to a fully cooled part. In an injection molded part all the cooling happens at once. With FDM printing the cooling happens layer by layer through the part affecting the over all dimensional stability of the part alot. The higher end polymers like PEEK, PPSF, PSU, and PEI dont have the same dimensional stability issues, but now you need a really high end printer capable of handling 400C. Not only does material choice matter so much when it comes to this, but part orientation also plays a roll. Does your particular printer make better circles in the Y or Z axis? With an AR lower you have holes going in every axis which is why it is such a pain to simply print one out. Honestly though until I watched the video I had no idea how bad dimensional stability and tolerances where gonna be on a lower. I thouhght the tiny LPK pieces like detent springs and trigger pins might not fit. I didnt expect the mag well to be THAT bad though.
rero360- I understand doing a little post processing for a 3D printed part, but at some point you will hit diminishing returns and it becomes better to just use a different method to achieve the same results. If your willing to drill precise holes into plastic just get a polymer 80 lower and have fun. The injection molded plastic will be way more useable. If you are trying to be in the camp: "yea but I want to make a lower from NOTHING, I dont even want to go into public to make a ghost gun!!!" then I would say a solid peice of 3x6 in your favorite grain of wood would probably even make a better lower reciever than a typical consumer grade 3D printer can produce. Im a big fan of 3D printing I just dont like to see it over hyped.
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