Got the revolver bug after 40 years of semi shooting and reloading

[flenna]

If you want a fun plinking revolver pick up a Heritage. I have one in .22 lr with the 6 inch barrel that I got for $99 on sale. Me, my son and a brick of ammo makes for a fun afternoon.

[Gunnar da Wolf]

I have .38 snubbies, .357 Mag DA, and .44 Mag DA, SA and leverguns. A couple years ago I also purchased a Pietta 1860 .44 cap & ball revolver. Now that thing is a blast to shoot! A bit slow to load and clean afterwards but it does bring a grin everytime you press the boom switch.

My bucket list includes another single action in .45 Colt, I should have never gotten rid of the first one...

[Pappabear]

I have a few revolvers 38, 357, 44mg, I recently bought a couple of Colt SAA New Frontier .22's. Came with the LR and Mag options. Very fun to Shoot, Kinda looking at an Uberti .22 now. Got the fever!

[Ron3]

Watch out for light strikes in DA with the Redhawk. Not a rare issue. Problem was resolved with the Super.

I had a used one briefly. I had a couple light strikes with it in DA. Research it.

I don't care for side-load single actions. It's just way to slow to reload and reduces the fun. A swing out cylinder on a DA is cumbersome enough to be fun.

Now a top break would be different. I might enjoy a good one.

[halfmoonclip]

For the OP, think hard about sticking with one brand (I'm a Smith guy myself) and learning it well. Learn to shoot double action; finding a .22 iteration of that brand is a help.
It isn't hard to lighten the trigger stroke on a Smith; any halfway competent gunsmith can put in a milder trigger spring and slick up the action.
I started with revos, got a bunch of autos, and have drifted back to some autos. They're both fun.
Moon

[Uni-Vibe]

For the OP, think hard about sticking with one brand (I'm a Smith guy myself) and learning it well. Learn to shoot double action; finding a .22 iteration of that brand is a help.
It isn't hard to lighten the trigger stroke on a Smith; any halfway competent gunsmith can put in a milder trigger spring and slick up the action.
I started with revos, got a bunch of autos, and have drifted back to some autos. They're both fun.
Moon

I'm doing exactly that. I recently got a big brother for my 686, that being a 6.5 inch 629. I'm loading for it, too.


And I still have my venerable .44 spl S&W Hand Ejector from the 1950s. It gets shot about once a year with very mild handloads.

[halfmoonclip]

The 686 is an absolute sweetheart, and I had several...but .357s no longer charm me. I've got some magnum bear stoppers for the 640 (140FMJ at nearly 1200' out of a steel Centennial; my handloads were no better), but the blast and recoil are a pain. A 4" 686 is a really nicely balanced revolver, closely followed by the 6"
There's still a 629 in the safe, and I've taken 3 deer with it, but it doesn't seem much service. .45ACP revos are more fun and don't wear me out.
Indulge that revo jones...there's plenty of good ones out there. Don't let internet griping about the locks on some Smiths bother you...mine have given no trouble.
Moon

[Uni-Vibe]

I reload for both the 686 and the 629. Indeed, they've never seen a factory round.

I load both with hardcast SWC going about 1050 fps. Hotter than +P specials, but not as hot as factory magnum loads. You still know you're shooting a big gun, but the loads are accurate, pleasant to shoot, and easy on the guns. (Not to mention cheap: that $30 box of fifty rounds of .44 I can make for about eight bucks).

[gaijin]

I reload for both the 686 and the 629. Indeed, they've never seen a factory round.

I load both with hardcast SWC going about 1050 fps. Hotter than +P specials, but not as hot as factory magnum loads. You still know you're shooting a big gun, but the loads are accurate, pleasant to shoot, and easy on the guns. (Not to mention cheap: that $30 box of fifty rounds of .44 I can make for about eight bucks).

That bullet/velocity are about ideal for my purposes. Pretty easy to thread those softer shooters precisely where you want.
I don't think any of my .4X caliber N frames have ever shot a round hotter than 1100 FPS. I favor hardcast SWC (prefer Keith type if I can get them) or WFNGC (for hunting).
The amount of penetration that a long for caliber .41/.44/.45 is capable of is pretty incredible.
My experience is a +P .45 Colt with a KTSWC of 270 gr.+-/1050 to 1100 FPS will shoot through most hogs I've encountered- and with proper shot placement drops them like a .30/06 at realistic ranges.

Leading can be a real problem shooting cast in revolvers.
The bullet diameter needs to be sized to the cylinder throats and have enough energy/velocity to "bump up" (obturate) to properly engage the rifling.
Leading will destroy accuracy in short order; one reason I use a lot of Gas Check bullets (which eliminate "gas cutting" of the bullet base).
Additionally- MOST commercial casters use WAY too hard of lead alloy for their handgun bullets.
An alloy that is too hard for the pressures you're running will cause "blow by", or gas cutting as the the bullets enter the barrel- due to the bullet being so hard it it can't "bump up" to seal the bore, allowing gas cutting at the base.
"Hard" cast bullets are "pretty", but too hard won't shoot worth a shit.

Current production (read that the last 15+ years) S&W "N" frames have exhibited much too tight cylinder throats. I've seen .45 Colt throats running as tight as .449".
Ideally the cylinder throats will be a half thou under bore diameter; I use a .4515" reamer in a .452" bore .45 Colt as example.
How in **** do the S&W Engineers think a moderately low pressure cartridge like .45 Colt can possibly swage a bullet to .449" as it passes through the cylinder throats (increasing pressures) and then expect it to "bump up" to bore diameter of .452"?? In particular with HARD cast lead (BHN of 18+)?

I use throating reamers to open cylinder throats to proper diameters- from Dave Manson in .44 and .45 caliber, the .41's throats have always been close to correct.

For the handloaders; I've used "Montana Bullet Works" for years. They offer true, KTSWC's and WFN/LFN GC bullets of varying diameter range (.451" thru .454" in .45 Colt) and air cooled or heat treated/different BHN's).
Their bullets are not for "plinking" as they are comparatively expensive. They are, however, "state of art" in lead bullets, if you want optimal lead bullet accuracy.
I have no affiliation with MBW's, other than as a long time customer.
https://www.montanabulletworks.com/bullet-information/

The point of all of this nonsense is; your/our revolvers are likely capable of greater accuracy than you have experienced- if that's important to you.

[1986s4]

Got a Smith 686 just on a whim. Loading for and shooting this thing is fun! I can load down to .38 target velocity or load her up good and proper.

Seriously considering a Ruger Redhawk in .44 mag with 7.5 inch barrel. I will be shooting few full house .44 loads, but lots of what I'd call 44 spl +P or +P+ handloads.

What took me so long?

Yeah, what took you so long? I started my handgun shooting journey with a Smith M18 .22 and it continues. I love my 4" 686-1 and I've used it for handgun competition and even some 2 gun competition. But my K frames are just such sweet shooters. I'm always looking for a fixed sight N frame.