G&R Tactical
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Thread: BRT OPTIMUM Barrels

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by taekwondopreacher View Post
    That's true...but that's also big picture. If your hand guard, barrel, gas block, muzzle device, sighting system, and stock are all individually heavier than needed you'll quickly add pounds to your build. That's different than purposely choosing a specific component for its attributes, such as the barrel in this case.
    My 16" Optimum barreled rifle with RDS weighs approx 7.5#, and I could probably use a lighter iron rear sight than a LMT rear, a lighter 12" hand guard than my 13" hand guard, and a lighter stock than the clubfoot Imod to get under 7# if that was my goal.
    Yea I see what your saying. I plan to save weight everywhere else I can. Right now i'm thinking about going with the alg v2 rail or the brigand arms carbon fiber black edge tube. I was planning on going with a faxon gunner/pencil barrel but I think Id rather have a smoother shooting gun that doesn't open up as much at the expense of 3 to 5 ounces. It all trade offs with guns. To further save weight, Im planning on using a bcm mod 0 stock and an upper without the forward assist. But nothing is set in stone.
    Last edited by Skeeter98; Yesterday at 01:58.

  2. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by taekwondopreacher View Post
    IIRC, Tula would barely cycle mine, but not lock back. I have an AGB on mine, though. I set it so standard brass 223 locks back when loosely held, and I think weaker PMC has to be shouldered to lock back.
    is not being able to shoot steel ammo reliably important? I'm somewhat new to this. on ammoseek, brass mil spec ammo seems pretty cheap.

  3. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter98 View Post
    is not being able to shoot steel ammo reliably important? I'm somewhat new to this. on ammoseek, brass mil spec ammo seems pretty cheap.
    It's personal preference. For me, brass cased ammo is easier to get and less trouble in the long run. I don't worry about steel case. In fact, I don't know steel cased ammo will reliably run any of my current ARs.
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  4. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter98 View Post
    is not being able to shoot steel ammo reliably important? I'm somewhat new to this. on ammoseek, brass mil spec ammo seems pretty cheap.
    It's not to me, but I had a couple boxes of it for some reason. I can see the appeal of shooting cheapest possible ammo, but quality ammo is as affordable as I've seen it in recent years.

  5. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter98 View Post
    is not being able to shoot steel ammo reliably important? I'm somewhat new to this. on ammoseek, brass mil spec ammo seems pretty cheap.
    The only steel cased .223/5.56 ammo I have ever purchased was to see if my ARs would run it reliably. Curiosity killed the cat, you know.

    My 16" Optimum barrel functions correctly with mild reloads (24.5 gr TAC w/55 gr FMJ), and that is all I needed it to do.

    Andy

  6. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    It's personal preference. For me, brass cased ammo is easier to get and less trouble in the long run. I don't worry about steel case. In fact, I don't know steel cased ammo will reliably run any of my current ARs.
    I think brass is affordable enough to avoid it. My understanding Is that steel on steel contact is rougher on your gun considering that these bullets may also have bimetal jackets along with their steel cases. Also the steel doesn't obturate and create a seal as well as brass since its a much stiffer metal and I think that's what accounts for a lot of the low power you see from those rounds along with sub par powder charges. But its alluring to be able to shoot anything if you really had to for some reason.

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