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Thread: My factory built LMT LM8MWS SBR and the lessons I've learned

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMTRules View Post
    The sights I called to get changed out when it arrived. If not that day the second day of it being local at my dealers place of business.

    I did not assemble the rifle, this was a factory built rifle so I don't think i should have to tear the rifle completely apart to check detent springs when it was fully built by LMT.

    Info i saw related to UBR gen 1, maybe I missed the gen 2 info. Figuring out how to make it run is not on LMT at all, just stating what how I made those parts work, and that they would not work stock. I was surprised the suppressor charging handle was causing the rifle to rip case heads off. Thought i'd mention it.

    I accepted the lower issues when I saw it because I wanted to start MY NFA wait time, not dealer to dealer approved back, then dealer to dealer back local, then start my trust approval. That was my decision, but when I contacted LMT to fix my barrel issue I figured I ask about getting it fixed. I was SOL, which okay sure. Not crazy about it but yeah, I should have taken to time when it first arrived. Its on me, just figured if it was going back to fix my barrel issues could they fix my lower at the same time, nope.

    Hard to believe or not that's what Gene told me on the phone. I emailed him back asking how do I fix my barrel to be able to change it by hand. Response was " Remove the BCG and upper from lower. With muzzle pointing downwards, tap the end of the rail on something solid like a corner of a bench while pulling the barrel out. I cant remember what rail you have but DO NOT put your fingers into the holes on the receiver while removing the barrel." That was the whole email so that's what I'm going to try. My issue with forcing this thing in and out is what is it doing to its mating surface inside my $1000 upper receiver?

    I do really appreciate your opinion as you seem like an expert on the LMT family of rifles. Your very informative posts and youtube videos are some of the best concerning this manufacturer. Seems like your the second person leaning towards I damaged my barrel somehow. What am I doing wrong? Pull front bolt out, loosen rear 3-4 turns right??

    Think I'm just going to lightly sand down that lip as little as possible to make it work.
    I'm very far from an expert, and I only own a couple so you shouldn't appreciate my opinion any different than Joe Bobs on this matter. That said, in the past I tried to collect any printed literature or reviews on the design, and have continually read reports from users since I got my first about 10yrs ago.

    I knew I shouldn't have even opined, or replied....and it's on me for jumping into the mud. I know better than to post on this forum, much less in a thread like this where I have no value to add.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bret View Post
    In the face of that evidence, I don't think it's appropriate to question the truthfulness of the OP simply because you've never seen a LMT firearm with this sort of problem.
    Your right sir, and luckily I can make sure I don't make such a mistake again by hitting the reply button.

    That said, your making a leap assuming I'm out right questioning some random internet person's integrity or truthfulness, and a wrong leap at that, at least in the way I intended my written word to be interpreted. While I've never spoke a word to the OP, I've had conversations with Gene on a number of occasions, and do believe I have a gauge on what type of man he is to at least a small degree. If OP says Gene told him to beat your quick detach barrel designed rifle with a HAMMER, than who am I to question that. The real question needs to be asked to LMT, as why they advertise a QD barrel change ability, when their lead tech/expert believes the design needs a hammer along with the torque wrench/bit you get.


    NONETHELESS, LMTrules…...in complete sincerity, I apologize if you thought I somehow questioned your character, integrity, and truthfulness.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by LMTRules View Post
    The sights I called to get changed out when it arrived. If not that day the second day of it being local at my dealers place of business.

    I did not assemble the rifle, this was a factory built rifle so I don't think i should have to tear the rifle completely apart to check detent springs when it was fully built by LMT.

    Info i saw related to UBR gen 1, maybe I missed the gen 2 info. Figuring out how to make it run is not on LMT at all, just stating what how I made those parts work, and that they would not work stock. I was surprised the suppressor charging handle was causing the rifle to rip case heads off. Thought i'd mention it.

    I accepted the lower issues when I saw it because I wanted to start MY NFA wait time, not dealer to dealer approved back, then dealer to dealer back local, then start my trust approval. That was my decision, but when I contacted LMT to fix my barrel issue I figured I ask about getting it fixed. I was SOL, which okay sure. Not crazy about it but yeah, I should have taken to time when it first arrived. Its on me, just figured if it was going back to fix my barrel issues could they fix my lower at the same time, nope.

    Hard to believe or not that's what Gene told me on the phone. I emailed him back asking how do I fix my barrel to be able to change it by hand. Response was " Remove the BCG and upper from lower. With muzzle pointing downwards, tap the end of the rail on something solid like a corner of a bench while pulling the barrel out. I cant remember what rail you have but DO NOT put your fingers into the holes on the receiver while removing the barrel." That was the whole email so that's what I'm going to try. My issue with forcing this thing in and out is what is it doing to its mating surface inside my $1000 upper receiver?

    I do really appreciate your opinion as you seem like an expert on the LMT family of rifles. Your very informative posts and youtube videos are some of the best concerning this manufacturer. Seems like your the second person leaning towards I damaged my barrel somehow. What am I doing wrong? Pull front bolt out, loosen rear 3-4 turns right??

    Think I'm just going to lightly sand down that lip as little as possible to make it work.
    I have not read this entire thread, but did you entirely remove the screws holding in the barrel?. I expect you did, but I have to ask.

    PB
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

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