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Thread: Running a MAWL with a T Rex Arms Lightbar

  1. #1
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    Running a MAWL with a T Rex Arms Lightbar

    Hi, I've been looking at various ways to run a white light and IR light with a suppressor. The MAWL is the clear choice if you're looking for the best, especially for extended ranges. I was originally going to go with a standard Arisaka Inline mount and a Modlite OKW for white light, but after watching various videos on suppressor shadow, I'm thinking that the T Rex Arms Lightbar mount is a better option for pushing the light further forward. It's essentially an Arisaka extended mount available exclusively from T Rex. In some cases, it can push a light even past a suppressor.

    What I was thinking is that I'd like the light mounted on the right-hand side of the rail to get it out of the way, but if possible I'd like it higher than the 3 o'clock position for when shooting in the prone or around corners. The obvious choice is the 1:30 offset position, but I don't know if placing it there is even possible with a MAWL, which sort of sits right at that position even though it's mounted at 12 o'clock. Since the light is pushed forward past the rail, I think it might actually clear it, but then I'd be concerned about the Modlite causing splash on the MAWL, thus defeating the whole purpose. Is what I'm saying making sense? Could the two systems work that closely together?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Great light and even greater IR laser and illuminator!

    Guess the question I have is why do you want to run the light on the RH side? That probably means some sort of pressure switch and well you know, not idea if it can be avoided.

    Have you considered running the light on the LH side with a clicky switch for constant ON if desired? Placing the light on the LH side will help balance the weight rather than having everything on the RH side. Not sure what light and rail your running? There are some options to mount the light up higher.

    I run the Unity Tactical Micro Hub 2.0 which incorporates a higher light mount and front sight post if desired while cleaning up rail space. With the light higher I dont really even notice the shadow seeings its basically underneath the rifle. I cant stand having lights mounted at 3:00 or 9:00 due to the shadows.

    Here's my set up

    IMG_0313.jpg

    IMG_0316.jpg

  3. #3
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    I would just tuck the light up under the MAWL with a standard Arisaka inline mount, and deal with the little bit of possible white light shadow. Like you pointed out, you are risking some splash with the MAWL (no bueno), by using that extendo light mount. Additionally the longer mount arm looks like a greater cantilever to possibly knock the m-lok mount loose, or maybe not, but looks wonky to me. No need to reinvent the wheel to solve non-problems and make even bigger problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by crossgun View Post
    Great light and even greater IR laser and illuminator!

    Guess the question I have is why do you want to run the light on the RH side? That probably means some sort of pressure switch and well you know, not idea if it can be avoided.

    Have you considered running the light on the LH side with a clicky switch for constant ON if desired? Placing the light on the LH side will help balance the weight rather than having everything on the RH side. Not sure what light and rail your running? There are some options to mount the light up higher.

    I run the Unity Tactical Micro Hub 2.0 which incorporates a higher light mount and front sight post if desired while cleaning up rail space. With the light higher I dont really even notice the shadow seeings its basically underneath the rifle. I cant stand having lights mounted at 3:00 or 9:00 due to the shadows.

    Here's my set up

    IMG_0313.jpg

    IMG_0316.jpg
    That's a great setup you've got there, very good lookin. The reason I figured RH side was better was because I've just seen so many people with that exact setup. All of the MAWL marketing photos have a light mounted at 3:00 and claim that this integrates well. I've also heard that having a light on the LH side reduces situational awareness because it can potentially block your view of what's downrange. Have you found that to be true?

    My preference would be to use a tailcap button as you stated, rather than a wire, at 10:30. I agree that it would be better for weight distribution. I was looking at the TAPS PRO for a while, but apparently folks have been having issues with it. Buttons are just safer and simpler. However, with the Lightbar mount, I'm afraid that unless it's run on an SBR, it would just be too far forward to effectively use a tailcap. What do you think, based off this pic of the mount?

    Last edited by BallisticHarmony; 10-29-19 at 21:55.

  5. #5
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    Im not sure where this light on the 3:00 rail concept came from. I suspect its from back in the day when many guys ran the VFG or broom stick and actually used their support hand thumb to fire the light. That grip seems to have evolved to a "C" or thumb on top grip today. Also some thought that having the light on the LH side for a RH shooter didn't expose you as much from concealment to activate your light or cause as much splash from what ever was your cover. That being said there are just as many LH corners in the world as RH so I never understood that theory.

    There is nothing at all I like about that that T Rex extended mount as for activation its going to place the light to far forward. I want to have a natural support hand grip and then have everything right there so activation of all items is fast and simple without the need to change my grip. I spend a fair amount of time training CQB and in shoot houses with and without NODs and have never experienced the light on the LH side blocking anything down range. I have never given it a though until you mentioned it (fake news) and to be honest never see it or really the end of the muzzle being threat focused. Do you see your RDS housing, does it interfere with your situational awareness?

    To help reduce the shadow from the can I do believe you should get the light as high as possible. If I am not running the Unity Micro Hub 2.0 (the 2.0 works with the MAWL) I will mount the light at the 10:30 with a MLOK mount or run it off the 12:00 position with a offset pic rail mount.

    You will get some splash off the can with the MAWL from the IR illuminator but it really isn't that noticeable unless you have the rifle up high in your field of view.

    TAPS PRO is no longer and the the newest version just out is the TAPS SYNC. It allows you to fire two devices same time with the push of one of the pressure pads. It does eat up rail space but I do believe it helps with lasers other than the MAWL that are a PITA to activate. I just set one up with a PEQ15 and additional IR illuminator. White light mounted at 10:30, PEQ at 12:00 and IR illuminator at 3:00

    Switchology of the MAWL reduces so many of the other issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by crossgun View Post
    Im not sure where this light on the 3:00 rail concept came from. I suspect its from back in the day when many guys ran the VFG or broom stick and actually used their support hand thumb to fire the light. That grip seems to have evolved to a "C" or thumb on top grip today.
    That is exactly the way my house gun is setup to this day.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crossgun View Post
    Im not sure where this light on the 3:00 rail concept came from. I suspect its from back in the day when many guys ran the VFG or broom stick and actually used their support hand thumb to fire the light. That grip seems to have evolved to a "C" or thumb on top grip today. Also some thought that having the light on the LH side for a RH shooter didn't expose you as much from concealment to activate your light or cause as much splash from what ever was your cover. That being said there are just as many LH corners in the world as RH so I never understood that theory.

    There is nothing at all I like about that that T Rex extended mount as for activation its going to place the light to far forward. I want to have a natural support hand grip and then have everything right there so activation of all items is fast and simple without the need to change my grip. I spend a fair amount of time training CQB and in shoot houses with and without NODs and have never experienced the light on the LH side blocking anything down range. I have never given it a though until you mentioned it (fake news) and to be honest never see it or really the end of the muzzle being threat focused. Do you see your RDS housing, does it interfere with your situational awareness?

    To help reduce the shadow from the can I do believe you should get the light as high as possible. If I am not running the Unity Micro Hub 2.0 (the 2.0 works with the MAWL) I will mount the light at the 10:30 with a MLOK mount or run it off the 12:00 position with a offset pic rail mount.

    You will get some splash off the can with the MAWL from the IR illuminator but it really isn't that noticeable unless you have the rifle up high in your field of view.

    TAPS PRO is no longer and the the newest version just out is the TAPS SYNC. It allows you to fire two devices same time with the push of one of the pressure pads. It does eat up rail space but I do believe it helps with lasers other than the MAWL that are a PITA to activate. I just set one up with a PEQ15 and additional IR illuminator. White light mounted at 10:30, PEQ at 12:00 and IR illuminator at 3:00

    Switchology of the MAWL reduces so many of the other issues.
    Man, that TAPS SYNC is pretty slick. I love how you can slave the white light to the visible laser, so you could take advantage of both systems at once.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BallisticHarmony View Post
    Man, that TAPS SYNC is pretty slick. I love how you can slave the white light to the visible laser, so you could take advantage of both systems at once.
    BINGO! yes sir. However now your back to a white light that must be fired by the pressure bad and cant be constant on. With my set up as pictured its less than a second to have both and one or both can be constant.

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