G&R Tactical
Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 678
Results 71 to 77 of 77

Thread: Getting Started Shooting at 1000 Yards

  1. #71
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    320
    Feedback Score
    0
    I assume Mistwolf that your 1000 yard range is west of a freeway in a local town known for its local fruit orchards and just south of a town named after a local religious leader/colonizer. If so that's the range I also use when I'm not using the west desert.

    Edited: just noticed you named the range earlier in the thread. Same range I go to once or twice on summer weekends. Great facility, friendly ROs.
    Last edited by B52U; 10-25-18 at 11:07.

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    130
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)
    Not sure what you’re using for ammo but if you can find the Federal Gold Medal Berger, loaded with 185s, they should do you good. Tried them back to back with the standard Federal 175 smk load and they were favorable between 300-500m. About .3mil better at 300, and .2 at 500 fwiw. Also more consistent in the variable winds that day.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    7,798
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by redpillregret View Post
    Another consideration, you may be able to send your Leupold into their custom shop for M5 0.1 mil per click conversion.
    I just got off the phone with the Leupold Custom Shop about this. It's a No-Go. Scope is too old and not compatible with the mil turrets.
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Central TX
    Posts
    195
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    I just got off the phone with the Leupold Custom Shop about this. It's a No-Go. Scope is too old and not compatible with the mil turrets.
    I sent one in a few years back to switch the reticle.

    My recommendation if you are looking for economy is a leupold MKIV with M5 turrets and mildot reticle front focal plane version. These turrets will match the reticle. Can be had used for under 1000. Matching turrets and reticle are a must IMO and FFP is also the standard for this kinda thing. I would spend more on optic though as it is not consumed with use like your barrel or ammo. Why not buy one you can live with then a compromise that you will need to change down the road. If you are only looking for one optic to rule them all though my personal pic would be the S&B PMII.

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    423
    Feedback Score
    0
    Great thread.

    I started long range shooting with Eurodriver, who was about as good a of a coach as you could ask for.

    Rear bag is a must. Bipod or front bag is whatever your preference.

    My rifle has Seekins rings. They are works of art. Spurh gets all the name recognition, but you're splitting hairs at great cost when you start to get into Spurh territory.

    Chrono is huge if you're working on a load (and if you're serious at doing precision rifle out to 1000y, you should be doing load development). If you're shooting factory ammo, a chrono would be helpful, but not as critical.

    The Leupold scope you have, as everyone has said, is plenty. I started out with a Nightforce ATACR 4-16 F1, and made most of my shots at 16x until I started to figure out that I didn't need anything more than 10-12x. But, and this is a big but, the glass quality and light transmission is fantastic on the ATACR, so 16x didn't really sacrifice a lot of clarity. I'd look at the 4-16 while you're looking at the 5-25. Depends on if you intend on carrying the rifle much.

    6.5 Creedmoor is the tits. The drop and wind performance is outrageous. I nabbed a Tikka T3X Lite stainless for $650. You don't need to spend $3k to get a good 6.5 rifle.

    If you're married to .308, get a 20MOA base for sure.

    Shooting solo out beyond 400-500y is really, REALLY hard. It's an exercise in frustration. A good spotter, with a good spotting optic (scope or binos, whatever) is a night and day difference. Spotting trails and misses is the difference between wasting $1.50 per shot and making hits. If you can, do your first serious long range shooting sessions with a buddy / trainer that has good spotting glass. It's worth the wait / struggle to have this.
    Last edited by noonesshowmonkey; 12-19-18 at 14:59.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    2,129
    Feedback Score
    47 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by redpillregret View Post
    Not trying to be a jerk, but you admitted you don’t know what you don’t know. The old Mark 4 will get it done until YOU learn what you’re doing. Cancel that order, run the Mark 4 and get a training course, a kestrel, and a case of ammo. You’ll be far ahead. Try to make some local matches and see what gear those that are successful are using.

    Not knocking the VX6, but reticles, knobs, and all that are almost the opposite of what you want in a field rifle unless you intend to get into short range bench rest or belly bench rest. Magnification is also not your friend. You’ll pick up a ton of mirage and that high-power won’t help all that much. Then, being SFP, the reticle won’t do you much good. The most successful shooters dial elevation and hold wind using a FFP reticle. In PRS, I rarely found myself above 12x except for the longest shots at small targets. Shooting F-Class, I would use a little more magnification but typically don’t end up much above 16x because of mirage.

    On bases and rings, lots of good makers out there. I’m a big fan of NF ultra light rings.

    I also like Badger bases/rings if you want heavy duty steel that it bomb proof, though that doesn’t seem the direction you’re going.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've heard mixed things. For PRS specifically, would you recommend beginners start with a simple mil reticle, or would you be okay with grid/tree holdover reticles if you're accustomed to using them on other platforms for other applications? Thanks.

    ETA: I do understand that mastery is a result of training extensive with what you've got, but if the learning curve can be mitigated to a degree then I think that's the best option.
    Last edited by Boba Fett v2; 01-02-19 at 16:36.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    1
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Boba Fett v2 View Post
    I've heard mixed things. For PRS specifically, would you recommend beginners start with a simple mil reticle, or would you be okay with grid/tree holdover reticles if you're accustomed to using them on other platforms for other applications? Thanks.

    ETA: I do understand that mastery is a result of training extensive with what you've got, but if the learning curve can be mitigated to a degree then I think that's the best option.
    My $.02 - disreagrd, I went down the comp road too quickly, not what the OP requested.
    Deleted
    Last edited by jd138; 01-04-19 at 08:32. Reason: Not applicable to OP

Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 678

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •