Any downside to re-contouring a barrel into LW vs just replacing with a new one?

[mark5pt56]

I would sell and buy a new one also. Once it's done, no going back if it failed. Get that BCM comp while you are at it, great with a lw barrel.

[mack7.62]

Don't the MK14 and the MK16 use the same barrel nut? If so I bet you could sell that URG-1 barrel with barrel nut and SF4P for more than enough to cover a barrel swap. Actually I think you could pocket a few extra $$.

[17K]

I'd keep it as is. The little bit of material you can remove from the gas block journal to the threads on a 14.5" mid is minimal.

That Daniel Defense barrel will outshoot a BCM ELW all day every day.

[gaijin]

Same.
Cost of "in shop hours" to turn barrel, coupled with possible disaster factor- I'd sell and get what I want.

[scottryan]

Over the last few years I’ve grown to really like non-government profile barrels. My two most used are a BCM ELW-F and Noveske Skinny. I recently got a URG-I and figured I’d do something about the government profile barrel down the road, which brings the question. It’d be significantly cheaper to just re-profile the area in front of the gas block journal and muzzle but I’m not sure how much that’s inviting the potential for problems. Obviously there’s the possibility that the gunsmith could screw that up, but I’m not sure how likely that is if he’s qualified and trusted. Other than that, I’ve seen claims that a “sharp” gas block journal will negatively affect barrel harmonics and therefore accuracy when compared to a continuous taper design with a .625 journal. Anyone know if there’s any merit to this or anything else that I’m overlooking? I’ll also be getting the pinned SF4P removed and a WarComp pinned on, if that matters.

I only have a little over 200 rounds through the DD barrel and it definitely performs well enough that I’d rather not have to replace it and the Geissele gas block. Also, I know it doesn’t matter much with ARs but I like the idea of having a new bolt and barrel wear together.


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I think you should just leave your upper as is.

[NYH1]

Either use your barrel as is or sell it and get the one you want.

NYH1.

[Don Quijote]

Obviously there’s the possibility that the gunsmith could screw that up, but I’m not sure how likely that is if he’s qualified and trusted. Other than that

Other than that, there is always the risk of losing straightness due to released stresses when re-machining a finished part. How likely is it your barrel will do this? I can't tell you. What I can tell you is that it happens and I've seen it happen not with barrels but with other parts of similar geometry.

[hk_shootr]

I always tend to follow the known route. I would replace the barrel with a known performer in the profile you seek.

Removing your barrel, sending it off for machining, reinstalling that barrel and finding out it shoots like crap due to some weird harmonics created form the machining would be a major PITA. Simply replacing it and selling the barrel would be a known result.

[TMS951]

People pay up to 300$ for the unibtanium flash hider you want to destroy too.

Like others have said try selling the barrel assembly complete, it will work with a mk14. I’m sure you could get enough to cover a new barrel and flash hider.

Lastly if you didn’t buy the urgi yet get the in pinned version, it willl make all the parts you don’t want much easier to sell.

[Wake27]

I already have the pinned URGI, which is part of the reason I have to send it to someone. I am hoping that the SF4P can be saved to sell off though, I hate open tine flash hiders. Originally I was going to get the stripped upper but the complete one was a pretty good deal through Brownells over Labor Day. Most places are sold out of the DD LW barrel so I have an email in with Triarc right now asking if I can just send them my upper for them to put one of their Track 2.0 barrels in. It’d actually add almost half a pound but I don’t hate extra weight nearly as much as I hate useless weight.


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