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Thread: Barrel Nut Removal Tips?

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  1. #1
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    Barrel Nut Removal Tips?

    I've searched and can't seem to find an answer. I have a BCM factory upper that I would like to remove the GI barrel nut from in order to install an aftermarket rail. I have the Brownells brand barrel extension tool and a GI armorers wrench, have applied penetrating oil and heat, and can not seem to get this to budge. I've put most of my near 200# gorilla strength behind it and still a no-go. Is there a trick to this? What tricks have worked in the past? At what point does one just move on to the dreaded dremil tool for a more violent removal? Thanks in advance.
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  2. #2
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    The BCM barrel nuts are torqued on by Zeus himself.

    I used this wrench in the link and applied slow even pressure then it finally broke free.

    I was using the GI armors wrench too, but kept breaking teeth off of the barrel nut. This wrench grips multiple points all the way around and really helps.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod27412.aspx
    Last edited by Zane1844; 11-23-18 at 16:03.
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    There is a good chance that you are going to shear the indexing pin and damage the indexing pin notch in the upper receiver using the Brownells barrel extension tool to remove a stuck barrel nut.

    Put your barreled upper in the freezer for an hour, then take it out and heat up just the barrel nut with a torch, then put your upper in the vise in a set of clam shell upper receiver vise blocks.

    Stick this in the upper/barrel extension for added support. > https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com...d-p/mi-urr.htm

    Then attempt loosening with a good quality barrel nut wrench... I prefer this one, but the one from PRI is good too. > https://www.2uniquellc.com/product-p...rel-nut-wrench
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-23-18 at 16:53.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the help so far...

    Im noticing a white substance around the threads, which I would hope is anti-seize. Im going to try the differential cooling now. Had it up over 350 with the heat gun without success. Is there a theoretical max heat?

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    7075T6 can be heated to 250 degrees for no more than a total time of 30 minutes without negatively impacting the heat treat.
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    I think BCM used to use a white lithium type grease on the upper receiver threads, though I'm not sure if they still use the same stuff anymore.

    It might have taken to long to heat up with the heat gun, the aluminum upper will react faster to temperature change than the steel barrel nut will.

  7. #7
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    Use the scalloped side of the barrel nut wrench, not the side with pins. The scallops will engage more teeth and spread the stress over a larger area, reducing the chance of smearing our breaking the teeth.
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    I’d send it to BCM and ask them to remove it. If they won’t ask for a warranty repair and to have the barrel nut installed to spec which it clearly isn’t.

    I’ve disassembled Colt factory uppers and the barrel but comes off with a crappy AR multi wrench and firm hand force. I’m no Superman either, technically I have a light build.

    This makes me never want to buy a BCM upper with a factory barrel nut. Thanks for the heads up.

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    Had one mil-spec barrel nut give fits. Eventually dremeled the delta assembly off due to I had no more hand strength left to press the wrench against the nut. Strongest spring I'd ever seen. Removing the hand guards confirmed it. I used penetrating fluids, frozen it, heated it (multiple times) to the point of melting the front of the receiver block (with indirect heat-gun heat), 9 lb sledge, 4-5 ft breaker bar, hours and hours. Gave up. Told a buddy about it the following morning and he said bring it over. Took my block and receiver, put them in his vise and said, "Hand me that "gun" wrench. Sticks the wrench on and one wack with a very nice, high dollar dead blow hammer broke the nut loose easily. Didn't even wind up, just a nice wack. From the time I handed the wrench to him, less than thirty seconds it was freed. Stunned, I shook my head and thanked him. Receiver and pin were just fine. Sometimes crap just happens. Sure seems to be the norm with the BCMs.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamashooter View Post
    Had one mil-spec barrel nut give fits. Eventually dremeled the delta assembly off due to I had no more hand strength left to press the wrench against the nut. Strongest spring I'd ever seen. Removing the hand guards confirmed it. I used penetrating fluids, frozen it, heated it (multiple times) to the point of melting the front of the receiver block (with indirect heat-gun heat), 9 lb sledge, 4-5 ft breaker bar, hours and hours. Gave up. Told a buddy about it the following morning and he said bring it over. Took my block and receiver, put them in his vise and said, "Hand me that "gun" wrench. Sticks the wrench on and one wack with a very nice, high dollar dead blow hammer broke the nut loose easily. Didn't even wind up, just a nice wack. From the time I handed the wrench to him, less than thirty seconds it was freed. Stunned, I shook my head and thanked him. Receiver and pin were just fine. Sometimes crap just happens. Sure seems to be the norm with the BCMs.
    Do you remember seeing any sign of grease on the disassembled receiver and barrel nut?

    I also have a very nice, high dollar (Snap-On) dead blow hammer at my disposal, so I will keep that in mind.
    Last edited by 556Cliff; 11-25-18 at 23:12.

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