Barrel Nut Removal Tips?

[26 Inf]

Good deal, thanks for letting us know.

[556Cliff]

Great! I'm happy that it worked out.

Does your indexing pin look okay? Also, how does the indexing pin notch on the upper receiver look? Specifically on the left and right sides where the pin makes contact with the notch. You might see an impression of the pin from the aluminum crushing around it.

You might have to clean the notch up pretty good (I use brake cleaner) to see any damage.

If there happens to be no damage it will be a double win.

[bamashooter]

Glad to see you prevailed. OP, are you saying that due to the clam shell you had success removing the nut as compared to your attempt using a rod?

[titsonritz]

Glad to see you prevailed. OP, are you saying that due to the clam shell you had success removing the nut as compared to your attempt using a rod?

I wouldn't doubt it based on this IG tidbit alone...
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...01#post2226401
...one of many good threads on the subject of tools.

[medicman816]

Index pin and slot appear undamaged when I cleaned the old grease off. I was thinking, and correctly it seems, that it would be ok considering that there was zero noticeable movement on the wrench with the rod.

I am 99% saying that the clamshell was the trick. Using the reaction style rod, penetrating oil, and differential cooling was unsuccessful after 2ish hours of trying. The clamshell took less than a minute without differential cooling or additional oil (although there was residual oil from the first attempt on the nut for the past 3 weeks. I guess in fairness I should have tried the rod again to see if 3 weeks of oil helped any). There was also significantly less effort applied. The previous attempt was moving the workbench the vise is mounted to, this attempt did not.

I wish I had been able to find that thread before this saga began. It was not among those listed in my search results prior to starting this, I searched for advice on which tool to start with and it seemed 50/50 rod/clamshell.

[556Cliff]

No damage, double win.

And you had to clean off the old grease, so dry assembly wasn't the problem.

[medicman816]

There was definitely grease on the threads. It was whiter than other barrel grease that I have seen, but my sample size is small here. Seemed almost like pipe dope.

The more I think about it I think it was just on really tight. It seemed like a tire lug nut that is put on with an air impact wrench. A regular lug wrench won't budge it, but a cheater bar makes it seem rather easy. Had it been seized, the oil and heat should have worked, or the clamshell wouldn't have either.

[bamashooter]

Thanks medicman816.

[ajyaros]

Good info. I’ve been trying to decide on what type of vise block.


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[opngrnd]

Index pin and slot appear undamaged when I cleaned the old grease off. I was thinking, and correctly it seems, that it would be ok considering that there was zero noticeable movement on the wrench with the rod.

I am 99% saying that the clamshell was the trick. Using the reaction style rod, penetrating oil, and differential cooling was unsuccessful after 2ish hours of trying. The clamshell took less than a minute without differential cooling or additional oil (although there was residual oil from the first attempt on the nut for the past 3 weeks. I guess in fairness I should have tried the rod again to see if 3 weeks of oil helped any). There was also significantly less effort applied. The previous attempt was moving the workbench the vise is mounted to, this attempt did not.

I wish I had been able to find that thread before this saga began. It was not among those listed in my search results prior to starting this, I searched for advice on which tool to start with and it seemed 50/50 rod/clamshell.

Can you provide a link to which clamshell show you purchased?