Suppressor Stuck on Mount

[lee1000]

Should I put the anti-seize on the mount or the inside of the suppressor?


My iPhone XS Max is better than your android!

It doesn't matter, I would apply it to the mount. That stuff is going to spread all over the threads as soon as you shoot it.

Keep in mind that I don't own a suppressor yet. We do apply anti seize to gas turbines though.

[MadAngler1]

I guess I will try the Go Juice

[MegademiC]

Just something I noticed with my SF can:
As it heats up, I can tighten it up a couple clicks. If I dont loosen it before it cools, it is extremely difficult to remove.

[officerX]

Just something I noticed with my SF can:
As it heats up, I can tighten it up a couple clicks. If I dont loosen it before it cools, it is extremely difficult to remove.

It stuck once before; I let it cool off while still on the mount. (It wasn't as hard to remove that time.) After that time, I read somewhere, when putting the can on the mount, put it all the way on and then turn it back one click. I had been doing that and hadn't had any trouble, until this time.

[Pappabear]

The Sig QD cans lock down after a few rounds and you really need to let them cool off before removing. Or you have a fight on your hands. My only knock against them is they can be a PITA to remove.

PB

[oddballmkg]

I have several Surefire Legacy cans that get stuck on the adapters all the time. I have one suppressor that I leave on my LWRC short barrel rifle that gets shot a lot and its pretty much always stuck on the adapter. I found anti seize really does not do very much to keep the suppressor from sticking, it just makes a mess. I believe the carbon from the rounds going off just fills in the gaps/ space around the adapter making hard to remove the suppressor off the barrel adapter. I found if you just take propane torch and heat up the locking collar on the suppressor they come right off because of the different extension rates of the barrel material, suppressor and carbon. It does not take very much heat(have not tried heat gun). The other way and this is going to sound really bad and I only do when I half too, but other way is to just shoot the suppressor off the adapter. Loosen the locking collar and shoot a round off or two. I've had to shoot my suppressor off the end of my barrel two or three times. I just do it over some soft dirt/ground. The projectile is moving so fast its already made it through the barrel and out the suppressor before the pressure of the round moves the suppressor off the adapter. I have one Surefire SOCOM 308 can and the design of the adapter makes way easier to remove. With the SOCOM you just have to wiggle the can back and forth and it will come off. I also use carbon fiber welding mat to handle hot cans with. With the carbon fiber mat, you can actually hold on the can without burning yourself, way better than welding gloves. I end up wrapping hot suppressors in the mat when I put the gun into my carrying cases to keep from melting things.

[Clint]

The Q cans are the same way.

Must have something to do with the direct taper in front of the threads.

The Sig QD cans lock down after a few rounds and you really need to let them cool off before removing. Or you have a fight on your hands. My only knock against them is they can be a PITA to remove.

PB

[ODgreenpizza]

The Q cans are the same way.

Must have something to do with the direct taper in front of the threads.

I think you are right. When the can is installed the mount is compressed btwn the threads and front taper. My guess is the mount expands longitudinally when heated to lock down the can.

[lee1000]

I think you are right. When the can is installed the mount is compressed btwn the threads and front taper. My guess is the mount expands longitudinally when heated to lock down the can.

I waiting on one of these now, a Srd762 QD. Would you consider this a feature?