Mobil One As a Lube But What Weight?

[thopkins22]

Well,

my degree is in petroleum engineering

Are you not the guy we want to talk to? Tell us what you use.

Well...I currently work as a photojournalist.

I like grease because it stays put in the heat. I don’t live in Alaska, so viscosity at genuinely low temperatures is irrelevant to me. I’ve used bottle after bottle of slip2000 before that and have never had a lubrication related failure.

Lubes are just a compromise between lubricity, corrosion impedance, temperature sensitivity, and the ability to stay on the desired surface. I sincerely doubt that there is a significant difference between oils and greases made for firearms and those made for vehicles. It just doesn’t make sense to invest that kind of research on systems that really aren’t finicky and aren’t wearing out because of friction....

I think what I really learned is that you need to use something that is thick enough to stay on, thin enough to work without getting it really hot, and to have it on when it counts.

As to vegetable oils...they likely “bake on” which is what happens to a cast iron pan. The oils aren’t soaking into the metal as much as they are polymerizing on the exterior. It could give the impression that cleaning is easier...and maybe it is, even though the oils aren’t lasting as long or working quite as well.

[HKGuns]

Don't say it too loud or you'll end up with a lawsuit on your hands.

Ha! Someone who got it!

[Dr. Bullseye]

Well...I currently work as a photojournalist.

I like grease because it stays put in the heat. I don’t live in Alaska, so viscosity at genuinely low temperatures is irrelevant to me. I’ve used bottle after bottle of slip2000 before that and have never had a lubrication related failure.

Lubes are just a compromise between lubricity, corrosion impedance, temperature sensitivity, and the ability to stay on the desired surface. I sincerely doubt that there is a significant difference between oils and greases made for firearms and those made for vehicles. It just doesn’t make sense to invest that kind of research on systems that really aren’t finicky and aren’t wearing out because of friction....

I think what I really learned is that you need to use something that is thick enough to stay on, thin enough to work without getting it really hot, and to have it on when it counts.

As to vegetable oils...they likely “bake on” which is what happens to a cast iron pan. The oils aren’t soaking into the metal as much as they are polymerizing on the exterior. It could give the impression that cleaning is easier...and maybe it is, even though the oils aren’t lasting as long or working quite as well.

I was using synthetic, MO2 impregnated auto grease on my rails. After shooting there would still be grease in that whole area. But I began to wonder if the grease, being so thick, somehow impeded the function, the cycling of the AR. It just always seemed more sluggish at first and afer 20 rounds or so it seemed to loosen up. Maybe this was my imagination but it got me thinking about thinner lubes.

[T2C]

I can’t speak to fireclean, but my degree is in petroleum engineering. There are a lot of food safe chemicals for many purposes that are just effective as the toxic chemical...just more expensive. Being non toxic and food safe as a lubricant doesn’t really mean much in and of itself.

Unless it’s based on a lot more than that. Not sure.

In your expert opinion, what is the risk of Benzene exposure from firing rifles lubricated with synthetic motor oils? How about conventional motor oils? Have any studies on vapor exposure been conducted? Is there any difference in Benzene levels between conventional oils and synthetics?

Until Lucas Oil released their own firearm lubricant, I did not think any firearm lubricant companies had their own oil refineries and had to subcontract production with oil companies. We used motor oils for lubricant on some weapons in the military in the 1970's. I've been using motor oil and wheel bearing grease for lubricant on my own weapons for over 30 years and am curious about Benzene exposure. I m not trying to stir the pot; I would like the opinion of a petroleum engineer.

[SomeOtherGuy]

As already noted you're going to be inhaling vaporized lube, so something nontoxic is a very good idea. Slip2000 (normal or EWL), Froglube, and ALG Go-Juice are all nontoxic options. 4oz of lube will last most people 3-10 years, even if you shoot lots and lots and lots. Spend $10-20 on one of those, use it, and stop wondering.

Written by someone who tried every fashionable lube about 7 years ago and found nothing better than S2K, but now has bottles of 6-8 different brands leftover.

[Bravo Sierra]

9mm vs .45

[georgeib]

I use whatever weight Mobil 1 they put in the Slip 2000 EWL bottle.

[Dr. Bullseye]

I use whatever weight Mobil 1 they put in the Slip 2000 EWL bottle.

This is so funny because it just may be true.

[SomeOtherGuy]

9mm vs .45

20mm beats them both.

I use whatever weight Mobil 1 they put in the Slip 2000 EWL bottle.

Sure, yeah, who knows. AFAIK unused motor oil is not carcinogenic, but that doesn't mean it's food grade. Most people would probably be fine using pure canola oil or coconut oil from the supermarket. Yes, I know the background for these two and the once-popular lubes that were based on (+???) these.

[T2C]

As already noted you're going to be inhaling vaporized lube, so something nontoxic is a very good idea. Slip2000 (normal or EWL), Froglube, and ALG Go-Juice are all nontoxic options. 4oz of lube will last most people 3-10 years, even if you shoot lots and lots and lots. Spend $10-20 on one of those, use it, and stop wondering.

Written by someone who tried every fashionable lube about 7 years ago and found nothing better than S2K, but now has bottles of 6-8 different brands leftover.

I am concerned about Benzene levels in clean motor oil.