What about case lube?

[Gunfixr]

Hadn't tried making dcl. Haven't found easier than dcl, I have an old shoebox with a rag in the bottom. Dump brass in until it mostly covers the bottom, spritz over them a bit, shake 'em around in the box a bit, dump out and repeat. Put the lid on the box and set aside when done. Been using the same box with the same rag in it for almost a decade.

[markm]

It's cheaper, admittedly not by much. I was more curious than anything and was out of case lube at the time. As a bonus my wife has found other uses for the lanolin so there's that.
Cheaper is assuming however that Dillon mixes it to a similar ratio.
All that said, it works very well so my time and effort wasn't a waste.

That's cool.

Hadn't tried making dcl. Haven't found easier than dcl, I have an old shoebox with a rag in the bottom. Dump brass in until it mostly covers the bottom, spritz over them a bit, shake 'em around in the box a bit, dump out and repeat. Put the lid on the box and set aside when done. Been using the same box with the same rag in it for almost a decade.

Yeah... I have old black plastic meat trays from MAP packaging. Pour a load in and mist the brass. A completely non-process step.

[kwg020]

Been using RCBS case lube for years but I'm finally getting low. Wondering about any of the new stuff that's out there that may be cleaner and less sticky.

I still use the RCBS glycerin lube. I start with putting the cases in a plastic freezer bag and then putting in some of the lube. I stir the bag around and if I have some time I let the lube crawl over the brass. This technique really works well with .223 and similar bottle shaped cases. I prefer to do this 24 hours before I want to resize. This lets the lube crawl into the mouth of the cases as well.
Once I have resized the cases I simply spray them with some windex and rinse them in hot water. The glycerin will go down the sink with the windex and hot water so you will not have a sticky case when you are done. The lube is gone. Once the cases have dried I finish with what ever needs to be done, either trim or remove primer crimps. I finally tumble them after everything else is done. The walnut shells seem to last longer since I am not contaminating them with glycerin or sizing wax.

kwg

[Gunnar da Wolf]

I see all these "processes" and wonder why not just dump the brass in a tray and spritz them with DCL. You don't even have to hit them all evenly. The stuff is so user friendly.

I’ve tried spray lubes and gotten too many bumpy case shoulders. The 120+ cases from playing with Hornady 62 gr bthp loads took fifteen minutes to lube, size and put in the hot water and LemiShine bath this morning. They are laying in the sun today and will be clean , shiny and reloaded tomorrow.

[bigedp51]

I’ve tried spray lubes and gotten too many bumpy case shoulders. The 120+ cases from playing with Hornady 62 gr bthp loads took fifteen minutes to lube, size and put in the hot water and LemiShine bath this morning. They are laying in the sun today and will be clean , shiny and reloaded tomorrow.

With any type case lube you should wipe the case shoulder and neck off before sizing. And any excess case lube on the case body can be squeezed upward onto the shoulder.

Hornady One Shot is a dry case lube that does not flow or buildup on to the case shoulder and cause dents. And One Shot does not have to be wiped or cleaned off after sizing.

[markm]

I’ve tried spray lubes and gotten too many bumpy case shoulders.

With what caliber and dies? I've literally NEVER had a hydraulic dent in a shoulder.

[Gunfixr]

There's spritz, and there's drench.
Spritz is only enough to barely wet them. Actually, the reason I have the bottom of the box covered with a rag, is that I spray the rag first, pretty much cover it with a layer of cases, lightly spritz them, and then shake them around to distribute the lube. The rag helps to wet the bottom side, as well as wipe off excess.
BTW, I only spray the rag at first, not before each box load.

[Gunnar da Wolf]

I’ve had dents mainly in .223/5.56 using RCBS dies with RCBS lube , Franklin Armory lube and some isopropyl alcohol / lanolin mix from a professional reloader. I’ve also had dents in .30-30, .308 and .45/70 using spray lubes. If I get heavy handed with the RCBS liquid lube I get dents. I’ve learned to go easy with the liquid lube and as a benefit I don’t have to wipe the case shoulders or necks since only the case body contacts the surface of the pad.

The trick with the rag in the box to help moderate lube is something I may try in the future if I buy more spray lube.

[markm]

I'm at a loss. I've loaded over a hundred thousand rounds of rifle ammo since I started 25+ years ago, and have never hydraulic'd my shoulders.

[mic2377]

I think whether you get lube dents is in part somewhat dependent on the type of die. Some have small holes near the shoulder that will allow lube to be vented instead of denting the shoulder. It also depends if lube gets on the case shoulder.

I have had a few small dents early in my reloading career but it was cosmetic only.

That being said spray application of liquid lubes has been the worst offender for me in terms of these dents. No issue with wax lubes particularly when applied reasonably.