Spotting Scope for Zeroing

[Bimmer]

I have a basic 20-60x80mm Konus. It was less than $200 at the time (a screaming deal via GunBroker), and they're still less than $300. Search for it, and I think I and some others have talked about the good (the scope works well) and the bad (all the accessories are junk).

That said, when I want to see bullet holes at 200+ yds, then I use "shoot'n'c" or "splatter" targets. Easy!

If nothing else, use the "Champion" white sight-in targets, because holes are easier to see on white than on black.

[Coal Dragger]

I’ll just echo what others have said. Larger spotting scopes work better than small ones, glass quality, mounts they’ve being equal. For .224” holes at 200 yards I would be looking for at least 25X-30X if my target is not going to contrast the bullet holes much against the background, or lighting conditions are not ideal.

You can stack things in your favor by shooting at Shoot-n-See type targets that will leave a contrasting ring of color around the bullet hole. I have also found that shooting regular zeroing targets that are glued onto a cardboard backer helps a bit, probably because the bullet holes are much cleaner, and with a backer creating a small cylinder the hole is a bit shaded (might be my imagination), at the very least gluing the target to cardboard makes it almost impossible for your zeroing target to be blown off in the wind.

As for what I would look for in a range use only, or primarily range oriented spotting scope that you don’t plan to hump around while hunting, I would go for at least an 80mm objective lens on the main body. Since the eyepiece on many scopes controls your magnification range and you can buy one or more of them, get as much glass up front as possible. The larger your objective lens, the more light will be transmitted to the eye (glass quality being equal), the larger the exit pupil will be, the brighter the image, and the more generous the eye box. If you want to support high magnification, particularly on an overcast day, then the biggest objective lens you can get is a good step in the right direction.

[joedirt199]

I have an old bushnell spacemaster (made in japan) that has good glass, black rubber coated 15x45 power. Works good and won't break the bank.

[markm]

The better strategy is to pick good targets with the "shoot-n-c" feature. You can save a bunch of money on a scope and see holes easily. Pappabear found some Non-peel and stick blue ones that we're really favoring currently.

[Coal Dragger]

I like the looks of that target, who makes it?

[Rayrevolver]

I have been using a Celestron 20-60x80. It looks identical to the Konus.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._Spotting.html

Found this as smaller option:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...BI%3A514&smp=Y

I am not saying these are the best prices but just showing options in the less than $200 range. All the guys who are serious about precision seem to own Kowa where I shoot.

[Alpine2k3]

I like the looks of that target, who makes it?

Big Dawg Targets


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[NWPilgrim]

Big Dawg Targets


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Those look way better for shooting groups and zeroing a scope than the bullseye type shootNsee targets. Thx guys for the tip!

[markm]

Those look way better for shooting groups and zeroing a scope than the bullseye type shootNsee targets. Thx guys for the tip!

They are much better.

[TomMcC]

The better strategy is to pick good targets with the "shoot-n-c" feature. You can save a bunch of money on a scope and see holes easily. Pappabear found some Non-peel and stick blue ones that we're really favoring currently.

I use something similar. I use 12" by 12" Pro Shot grid targets (similar to Shoot n sees) on a white background. The paper is white butcher paper I get from Walmart. The targets are black with yellow green underneath. Unless you get a pretty high end scope with some pretty good resolution, it's pretty hard to see .223 holes at 200 yds on a regular paper target.