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Thread: Help picking a carbine light

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adrenaline_6 View Post
    No. I am on their mailing list and report flash sales to help members on the forum to get good deals. Do you work for Surefire?
    I donít, but I donít advocate for SureFire in every single light thread with specific details about drop testing, prices, etc.


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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wake27 View Post
    I don’t, but I don’t advocate for SureFire in every single light thread with specific details about drop testing, prices, etc.


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    I mention prices usually when there is a sale to help members save money. I also have mentioned numerous times that I own a S200C2VN (modded EagTac light), not an Olight for a weapon light. I mention the drop testing because it is a industry first. Name one other manufacturer that does it,...they don't...so I think it is worth mentioning especially from a reliability stand point. If Surefire had 40% off flash sales and a thread came up with the OP needed that particular type of light, I would let them know...but as you know, that never happens.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adrenaline_6 View Post
    I mention prices usually when there is a sale to help members save money. I also have mentioned numerous times that I own a S200C2VN (modded EagTac light), not an Olight for a weapon light. I mention the drop testing because it is a industry first. Name one other manufacturer that does it,...they don't...so I think it is worth mentioning especially from a reliability stand point. If Surefire had 40% off flash sales and a thread came up with the OP needed that particular type of light, I would let them know...but as you know, that never happens.
    I donít know what test standards companies use, Iíve never been so invested in someone buying from the company that Iím recommending to bother looking up the specifics. Thatís why I asked.


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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by D.O.A.F.S. View Post
    don't waste money on a pressure pad to activate the light, mount the light so it can be activated with your thumb from your normal firing grip.
    Why is that?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wake27 View Post
    I don’t know what test standards companies use, I’ve never been so invested in someone buying from the company that I’m recommending to bother looking up the specifics. That’s why I asked.


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    Gotcha. There are no standards for drop testing on lights, because no other manufacturer currently does it. To get the "standard" you would have to look up the specifics since they are the only one who has done it. If they had a rating standard something like IP67 for instance, that pertained to drop testing, I would have posted that, but it doesn't exist.

    I didn't mention other specifics like the silent vibration motor they use as a low battery level indicator. I didn't think that it was pertinent to the OP or other members, but the performance (throw) and the durability testing was.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTF425 View Post
    Why is that?
    Because they will fail, no matter who the manufacture is. And fail at an inconvenient time, ask me how I know. Again my experience of guys that continue to run them always carry spares.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by D.O.A.F.S. View Post
    Again my experience of guys that continue to run them always carry spares.
    I thought you had a TTP picked up, like holding someone under light being easier with a tailcap switch vs tapeswitch, that made that your preferred method.
    Last edited by GTF425; 03-21-19 at 15:12.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTF425 View Post
    Why is that?
    Iíve damaged lots of pressure/tape switches by banging into stuff or rubbing against my kit, causing them to work intermittently or not at all. Some of them suck in tactile feel, also. That said, I really like the ones for IR laser/designator/illuminators. I wish Surefire and Elzetta would make tailcaps for those so at least the logistics of changing them frequently could be streamlined. That switch type is something I really liked about the M3s, especially since the LA5 came with a two button switch that mounted directly to pic rail and had two wires, one for the M3 and one for the LA5.

    I feel like Surefire or Elzetta tape switches would be just fine for home d, or whatever contrived zombie outbreak scenario.

    Quote Originally Posted by Adrenaline_6 View Post
    Gotcha. There are no standards for drop testing on lights, because no other manufacturer currently does it.
    Do Cloud Defensive, Elzetta, and Surefire not drop test? Surefire and Insight lights have been included in SOOMOD kits for like a decade or two. Surely that came with some sort of testing.

    Iíve been in .mil Units that did lots of fastroping from helos and static line parachuting, as well as working in the dark under NODs. And back in the day, NODs werenít all that great. Iím not saying this to brag. I wish I had a video compilation of dudes crashing epicly, for a good laugh. These activities result in lots of falling sideways onto your weapon, or falling gracelessly on your @$$ with your weapon slung on your back. And tripping and falling in the dark at the low ready. And bumping into $h!+. And generally beating the crap out of your flashlight. Also, like 18 years of war. I canít recall ever seeing a Surefire deadlined except for the tape switch (see above). Iím sure its happened, but if it were common, I feel like I would have taken note of that. I personally think Surefire could use some improvement and price adjustment, but their durability is not really up for debate.

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  9. #29
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    I've always thought visible wires on a fighting carbine were a mistake, and I'm glad to see that there is anecdotal evidence to that.

  10. #30
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    DOAFS,

    You bring light to the merit of having spares in a kit bag. Does nothing for you on target when your shit breaks, as both you and 1168 pointed out, and is why I’m huge on securing wires with zip ties to take slack out and keep everything low profile. The only times I’ve seen the switches dead lined has been from snags or direct impacts on the plug. In that regard, the SF plug design is significantly more robust than the one for the PEQ/LA-5. Of which I have personally broken maybe 5 or so over the years and seen it quite a lot. There’s definitely merit in the tailcap designs that have dual function for tape and click switch operation.

    And I’m glad I’m not the only one who has gloriously eaten shit under NODs.

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