AK suppressor alignment on pined and welded flash hider

[Hellfire]

I have an Arsenal SLR-107CR that I am sending off to have some work done and need some advice please. When I bought the rifle years ago I had planned to SBR it, but for multiple reasons I have now decided to go a different route. My plan now is to have the barrel cut/crowned and have a SilerencoCo ASR flash hider pinned and welded.

I plan to add a suppressor at some point, not sure when, but chose a muzzel device that would accept one so that I would not be limited IF I eventually did go that route.

The company I’m sending my rifle to offers “suppressor alignment” when installing the muzzel device for $100. Looking at the SilencerCo website I don’t see much mentioned about aligning a suppressor when using one of their muzzel devices. The flash hider doesn’t need to be timed like a muzzle brake so I’m wondering what actions they would be performing with this service.

Of course I understand you don’t want a round hitting a baffle but if the barrel is cut and threaded properly and I’m using a SilencerCo flash hider and plan to use a SilencerCo suppressor IF I go that route then I would expect things to line up well.

Could anyone explain suppressor alignment and is it a service that’s needed, and is $100 a fair price? Any input is appreciated.

[NongShim]

When done properly, a muzzle will be threaded concentric to the bore. The threads and shoulder should be perpendicular to the bore so that when the muzzle device is threaded against the shoulder, it will align the bore of the can to the bore of the barrel. Sounds like these guys want to charge an extra $100 to do what should be done anyway.

My local guy who does muzzles on barrels he cuts for me charges less to do it right and I haven’t had any baffle strikes on numerous non-AK guns.

Anyone have a recommendation on who to have fix a canted Arsenal FSB?

[RetroRevolver77]

I'd SBR it, make sure the grommet is removed from the gas port, and use a Dead Air Wolverine PB1-1 suppressor.

You fix a canted front sight block by drifting out the sight pins, align with a mallet, then replace pins after tapering them a bit in a vice with a ball peen hammer.

[Smokin338]

As stated above, if the barrel is threaded concentric to the bore and has a proper shoulder on it... there's nothing else left to align!

[Bret]

I'd SBR it, make sure the grommet is removed from the gas port, and use a Dead Air Wolverine PB1-1 suppressor.

I'd SBR it too. That will keep the velocity down which will obviously help with sound suppression. Based on my experience SBR'ing three Arsenal SLR-10X series rifles, cut the barrel first and then see if it will run. They tend to be way overgassed.

[NongShim]

You fix a canted front sight block by drifting out the sight pins, align with a mallet, then replace pins after tapering them a bit in a vice with a ball peen hammer.

I’m trying visualize this playing out. Once the FSB of the glorious peoples’ rifle Of workers’ paradise is vertical, the holes through the barrel and FSB won’t align. So am I thinning and then shortening the pins so they just sorta fit, or bending them and trying to snake them through the now misaligned holes?

[RetroRevolver77]

I’m trying visualize this playing out. Once the FSB of the glorious peoples’ rifle Of workers’ paradise is vertical, the holes through the barrel and FSB won’t align. So am I thinning and then shortening the pins so they just sorta fit, or bending them and trying to snake them through the now misaligned holes?

The holes are going to be off marginally, you bend the pin slightly in a vice with a hammer because the holes will be ever so slightly offset. Then just put the pins back in. I'm talking very slight bend, barely noticeable. Just try it. Make sure your front sight post is centered before you begin. You can't mess it up, the worse that happens is you have to run a drill to open it up slightly but I've only had to that maybe once or twice. Most of the time, it works without drilling. Put a little creep oil on that block also.

[SteyrAUG]

The holes are going to be off marginally, you bend the pin slightly in a vice with a hammer because the holes will be ever so slightly offset. Then just put the pins back in. I'm talking very slight bend, barely noticeable. Just try it. Make sure your front sight post is centered before you begin. You can't mess it up, the worse that happens is you have to run a drill to open it up slightly but I've only had to that maybe once or twice. Most of the time, it works without drilling. Put a little creep oil on that block also.

Would be nice if they could just ship that crap from the factory correctly at 12 o'clock. If Colt ever shipped a 6920 like that the internet would collectively loose it's f-ing minds. People shouldn't have to whack their sights with a mallet and bend pins just to have their front sights where they are supposed to be from the factory.

It was something people put up with when SAR and Maadi rifles were $299 and Bulgarians were only $399 but honestly even then there was no excuse. If anyone held the AK (from any country) to the same standard of criticism as the AR, it would be considered one of the worst rifles in the world.

That is why there isn't an AK chart.

I like AKs, I can appreciate what they are and are not and I still enjoy collecting and shooting them. But it's a commie rifle built with a commie mindset of "good enough" and people champion how it performs in dust rooms but at the same time overlook huge, major flaws found on most rifles.

The fact that even with the 100 series you can encounter rifles with wonky sights (both front and rear) is just disgraceful and very, very preventable.

[Rayrevolver]

I would send it Class III Machining in Texas. Guy is named Morgan and I think his total cost would be around $100 for everything.

https://class3machining.com

Thread on TOS:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/equipmen...s/143-1029861/

[themonk]

My 2 cents - I totally dont think its worth suppressing an AK. Its an open system and gas goes everywhere. Because of this it has a significant bark at the ear. I have a few that are configured as you mention and I rarely shoot them suppressed.

That being said, a lot of AK boars are often off center so if you just throw a suppressor on the end you will get baffle strikes. The right way to do it is to put the barrel in a lathe and indicate off the ID of the bore and then thread off that. Depending on the lathe and the gun the barrel may have to be pulled to do this. So you could see why there would be an added expense vs a quick cut job and doing the threads by hand. You are going to have better luck with the bore being on center with an Arsenal vs a wasr if you want to roll the dice.

Personally I would SBR it. If I didnt do that I would spend the extra $100 and make sure it's done right. I would also make sure they guarantee the alignment so if you have anissues down the road they will fix it.