A smith vortex will do the same thing without the hassle of getting the correct number of shims. Just screw it on and it self tightens and doesn’t cause accuracy issues.
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products06.05.html
A smith vortex will do the same thing without the hassle of getting the correct number of shims. Just screw it on and it self tightens and doesn’t cause accuracy issues.
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products06.05.html
RLTW
“What’s New” button, but without GD: https://www.m4carbine.net/search.php...new&exclude=60 , courtesy of ST911.
Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.
I didn’t say it was similar. The vortex costs less and is not a compensator. But... I personally don’t see the need for a comp on a .223 rifle and I don’t have the patience to fool with shims or peel washers or whatever. The s itch is quick, easy doesn’t destroy accuracy and almost eliminates muzzle flash.
You quoted a user that was talking about a comp/brake on a gamer gun (if you think brakes are useless, get a shot timer.), and specifically the AFAB.
You didn’t say it was similar. You literally said “a Smith Vortex will do the same thing”.
I like the Vortex also; just pointing out that it is a different tool for different tasks.
RLTW
“What’s New” button, but without GD: https://www.m4carbine.net/search.php...new&exclude=60 , courtesy of ST911.
Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.
I only run A2s unless the rifle has a suppressor. Suppressor mounts typically need torque and if you’ve ever tried to remove a can that’s been shot 700-1000 times without removal you’d know why torque and rocksett are needed.
If you’re torquing a basic FH or comp more than a smidge you’re doing it wrong.
The flip side is if you’re over torquing a suppressor mount that’s wrong too. I’ve messed up both.
Last edited by Eurodriver; 04-01-19 at 08:14.
I'm not Clint, but here is the thread dedicated to what he is doing with his barrels. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...PTIMUM-Barrels
We consider threads to be an integral part of the overall barrel profile.
1/2-28 threads were a good choice for the lightweight barrel profile of the original M16 and became standard.
Heavier profile barrels were designed but retained the small threads mostly because it was "standard" and worked well enough to secure existing muzzle devices.
Striving for improvement often involves revisiting past design decisions in light of the current landscape of requirements.
Two recent trends helped tip the balance in favor of us making the change to larger threads.
On the commercial side, the popularity of larger caliber AR variants in 6.8SPC and 300BLK has greatly increased the number and availability of 5/8-24 muzzle devices.
On the technical side, the popularity of suppressors has driven the need for a stronger attachment method.
While a 1/2-28 thread is completely sufficient to secure a 2oz flash hider with a crush washer, a 16oz suppressor hanging 8" past the muzzle with a shimmed QD mount is a different matter altogether.
Black River Tactical
BRT OPTIMUM Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrels - 11.5", 12.5", 14.5", 16"
BRT EZTUNE Preset Gas Tubes - PISTOL, CAR, MID, RIFLE
BRT Bolt Carrier Groups M4A1, M16 CHROME
BRT Covert Comps 5.56, 6X, 7.62
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