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Thread: Maritime Environment project

  1. #21
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    This is not an AR story although at the time I did have an SP1 sn just over 19K. My dad and I had a boat on the NJ Shore back in the early 70s to late 80s. We did a lot of night fishing and would often see boats moving around us with out their running lights on. We think they were drug boats. I went and had my H&R M1 Garand rebuilt with all new parts and sent it off to a company named Armoloy in TX. They refinished it in a hard industrial chrome. We kept that Garand on board with 3 bandoleers of ammunition. One bandoleer was all ball ammunition, one was mixed armor piercing with tracers and the other one was all armor piercing. Here are a few pictures of my H&R M1 Garand.






  2. #22
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    Robar has Roguard, Poly T-2 and NP3+. All lifetime warranties on corrosion and chipping, peeling.

    https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm...y-on-finishes/

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnburglar View Post
    I might be the wrong person to weigh in on this. Like I grew up on a beach so I am aware how salty it can be, but I spent all my gun time in the most Arid of deserts.

    Are you not massively over thinking this? A 6920 should have the same or similar corrosion resistance than what a majority of Navy and USMC units are using. Im assuming they just do a regular inspection and replace parts as neccesary? If you need I can ask a buddy thats a recondo, but I doubt his answer will be different.

    My answer; buy parts that are not bare steel, which shouldnt be too terribly difficult. Nitride BCGs and barrels. As mentioned a ALG trigger and LPK would be probably your best bet. I also like the V7 Al castle nut that someone else mentioned. Wouldnt want a rusted castle nut to break and cause a total failure.
    Probably overthinking, just looking at improving what's out there, the Corps and Navy have a long supply/support chain behind them. We service our own weaponsz so part of my thought process is putting together the combination of parts to cut down on corrosion even more than what Uncle Scrooge required, and partly just to do it. The aftermarket has all the improved coatings and materials available on AR parts, so it doesn't seem unrealistic to assemble a better mousetrap.
    Veteran US Army Combat Medic/US Navy FMF Corpsman

    "Well placed gun fire is the best preventive medicine."

  4. #24
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    YO That is 1 Beautiful H&R M1 Garand




    Quote Originally Posted by md66948 View Post
    This is not an AR story although at the time I did have an SP1 sn just over 19K. My dad and I had a boat on the NJ Shore back in the early 70s to late 80s. We did a lot of night fishing and would often see boats moving around us with out their running lights on. We think they were drug boats. I went and had my H&R M1 Garand rebuilt with all new parts and sent it off to a company named Armoloy in TX. They refinished it in a hard industrial chrome. We kept that Garand on board with 3 bandoleers of ammunition. One bandoleer was all ball ammunition, one was mixed armor piercing with tracers and the other one was all armor piercing. Here are a few pictures of my H&R M1 Garand.






  5. #25
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    Hey Hammered Pair:<Funny call sign.

    As far as some of the smaller parts, (IF it was I) I would wipe a small and I mean a VERY Small amount of Marine grade Grease on springs and every small screw, roll pin, and whatever else you are concerned about and I bet You that You'll NOT ever have a problem with rust or corrosion at all!

    Years ago, I've used Marine grade Grease, where you swap Props on a Out board engine, and the Grease would never come off the splines, even swapping Props back and forth many times and the grease was always there!

    A lot of people don't know about these types of grease...


    I Hope this Helps...



    Quote Originally Posted by Hammered_Pair View Post
    So being near the ocean and lots of bayou/swamp areas I have been pondering building an AR specifically resistant to this environment, as a new work gun, we do various shipboard security/anti-piracy contracting.

    Looking at major components in QPQ (Melonite) finish, NP3, and possibly cerakote, trying to eliminate as much ferrous to ferrous metal contact as possible so the idea is in making the rifle fairly amphibious.

    I'm not new to building AR's, just first time I have contemplated something more specialized.

    Currently running a Mk18-esque pistol build with melonite barrel and bcg, either thinking upgrade or start from scratch.
    I've got time for further research I am putting in for a stamp on a lower next month for either this or another project.

    Thoughts?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by md66948 View Post
    This is not an AR story although at the time I did have an SP1 sn just over 19K. My dad and I had a boat on the NJ Shore back in the early 70s to late 80s. We did a lot of night fishing and would often see boats moving around us with out their running lights on. We think they were drug boats. I went and had my H&R M1 Garand rebuilt with all new parts and sent it off to a company named Armoloy in TX. They refinished it in a hard industrial chrome. We kept that Garand on board with 3 bandoleers of ammunition. One bandoleer was all ball ammunition, one was mixed armor piercing with tracers and the other one was all armor piercing. Here are a few pictures of my H&R M1 Garand.

    I'm sorry, but you should be drawn and quartered for doing that to an M-1 Garand.






    11C2P '83-'87
    Airborne Infantry
    F**k China!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABNAK View Post
    I'm sorry, but you should be drawn and quartered for doing that to an M-1 Garand.






    It is a Post WWII Garand and it was in 1972. I wanted a weapon that could punch a hole through wood or fiberglass at long ranges. I also I needed a weapon that my father, a WWII Veteran with 46 months of combat time on his DD 214 could handle in the dark. The M1 Garand fit the bill for the requirements and mission.

  8. #28
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    I live near the ocean in Florida, half a block away from the beach in fact. If the wind has been blowing and it hasn't rained in a while I will hose off my car. I keep it waxed too. IMO one cannot just leave one's car or other valuables unprotected, materials alone is not enough protection. Buy quality to begin with and take care of it. The only rust issues I've ever had have been with blued steel magazines that got wet and left in the sun [man, those rusted fast!]. I keep the bore oiled and I protect the exterior with my left over Frog Lube which I no longer use for anything other than corrosion protection which it does rather well [WD makes a good anti-rust product too].
    A couple of months ago I shot a carbine match in a constant rain/downpour. My anti corrosion practices worked quite well, no rust and I was sure to break down both weapons later and re-apply.

  9. #29
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    This thread reminds me, I remember seeing an Inconel 600 small parts kit a while back and wondered if it was a gimmick or if there was actually some validity to using Inconel in small parts.

    https://www.apexgunparts.com/neverwe...-made-new.html

    I'm curious to hear what others with knowledge on the subject think.

  10. #30
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    Damage Industries offers a nickel teflon small parts kit.

    http://damageindustriesllc.com/store...roduct_id=2535

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