Point me to some decent factory "match" .223 ammo...

[Bimmer]

Get some Black Hills 69 gr TMK in 5.56mm.

Holy cow, I just looked it up, it's $1.05/round... That's hard to justify when FGMM is 85¢.

If I was going to spend more, then I would go for Lapua... Their 167gr Scenar is just awesome in my .308, except that it's so damned expensive.


I see that BH loads the 52 SMK, though, and that's tempting... but I really just want ONE decent factory load, so that I'll be forced to handload.

[markm]

Holy cow, I just looked it up, it's $1.05/round... That's hard to justify when FGMM is 85¢.

When you shave off nearly a mil in come up at 500 yards, that price isn't so bad. I'd give you some to try if you were near me...

Like ST911 pointed out.... If you have experience shooting 500-1000 yards plus, and you try this load... you'll be in disbelief.

[Bimmer]

Hornady 5.56mm 75 gr. BTHP T2 TAP (8126N) works well for me.

I have some of that... It's been underwhelming in my ARs, at least in terms of accuracy.

I've been collecting random samples of .223/5.56 over the years, but never really made "precision" a priority since I've been shooting lightweight ARs.

Now that I'm getting a bolt gun and really going to start hand-loading, it's different...

[Bimmer]

WI'd give you some to try if you were near me...

I appreciate it... Mostly I'll be shooting 200-300yds, and never beyond 600yds.

Irony: California has banned online ammo sales, so right now I'm looking to have something delivered to my parents' house in Colorado, so that I can pick it up when I'm there next week.

[B52U]

One can roll the dice in regards to finding an accurate factory load for THEIR rifle, same an be said for hand loading. The hand loading can turn into a nightmare if you let it. Having said that, there are factory loads that are a safe bet and the saying goes that if your rifle can't shoot FGMM than it's not the ammunition. Ask yourself what ranges you can shoot to and maybe pick a good bullet that will perform best to that distance. If short range, go for the 69's, longer-at least 77. I could be wrong but I think the 73's where intended for semi's, certain they will perform well in a bolt. Blackhills would be another good one. Don't waste your time over a nickel a bullet, nothing is worse than having a great rifle and ammo that won't shoot.

I've shot the PPU and Magtech in a couple different rifles, it did ok but not on par with Blackhills or FGMM. Every rifle is different, I have a standard 16" chrome lined LMT MRP barrel that will shoot the Sig branded 77 match into .75 bu the tack driver, 20" SS 5R hates it- over 1" But that same 20" will run BH 262 into sub 3/4" one example.

For a good combo look at H4895 and the the Hornady 75 BTHP and or IMR 8208 with the 77. I haven't mixed the two yet. That H4895 load has shot well in 3 rifles.

Hand loading doesn't have to be a nightmare, you just need the right tools and methods. A good chronograph being numero uno! Find the node that yields both the lowest SD and has the most consistent group performance, done. Yes you can go off the rails with experimentation. That's why you consult other experienced reloaders to get an idea of the right bullet and powder combinations for your application first.

[Bimmer]

OK, since I just reminded myself that I need this to arrive in Colorado by Easter Monday, I just put in an order...

Sixteen boxes (320rnds) of FGMM 69 @ $15.99 from Ammunition Depot came to $255.84, and they ship orders >$250 for free, so it came to 80¢/round, shipped.

[Bimmer]

Hand loading doesn't have to be a nightmare, you just need the right tools and methods. A good chronograph being numero uno!

Not to worry... I've been reloading pistol rounds and .30 Carbine on a RL550B since the early 1990s. I have a ProChrono and know how to use it!


Stepping up to real rifle cartridges with shoulders will be stepping up my game, but it's been a long time coming.

I've been sitting on a Dillon swagger and Dillon trimmer for years and years, and I have a phat stash of .223 cases and 48lbs of TAC and 9,000+ various .224 bullets.


Of course, I'm not going to actually buy the bolt gun until the end of the year, but that'll give me time to catch up on loading .40, .38, and .30 Mauser!

[B52U]

Not to worry... I've been reloading pistol rounds and .30 Carbine on a RL550B since the early 1990s. I have a ProChrono and know how to use it!


Stepping up to real rifle cartridges with shoulders will be stepping up my game, but it's been a long time coming.

I've been sitting on a Dillon swagger and Dillon trimmer for years and years, and I have a phat stash of .223 cases and 48lbs of TAC and 9,000+ various .224 bullets.


Of course, I'm not going to actually buy the bolt gun until the end of the year, but that'll give me time to catch up on loading .40, .38, and .30 Mauser!

Good, TAC has been outstanding for me with 77 noslers and cci41's in lake city or federal brass. Good luck!

[Bimmer]

Good, TAC has been outstanding for me...

Yes, mostly I bought it to load lots of .223 for my ARs and 7.62 for my M14, but I'm hoping that I can come up with some halfway accurate ammo for my bolt guns, too...

Really, my expectations (at least so far) are pretty low: I'd be very happy with 1moa out to 300yds.

[mark5pt56]

Hand loading doesn't have to be a nightmare, you just need the right tools and methods. A good chronograph being numero uno! Find the node that yields both the lowest SD and has the most consistent group performance, done. Yes you can go off the rails with experimentation. That's why you consult other experienced reloaders to get an idea of the right bullet and powder combinations for your application first.

That why I said -IF YOU LET IT meaning you could try every combination one could think of to chase the golden egg. Some do, the point is to go with "safe bets" and be done with it.