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Thread: Dry Film Lube and the TDP

  1. #21
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    I thought 27A was discontinued?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by lysander View Post
    Standstrom 27A (MIL-L-46147) is good stuff, we use it all the time where I work. It's just that Standstrom 099 is better, much better. I have rarely seen it worn off. The only time we use the air cured stuff is in the aerosol can for small stuff, if it goes to the paint shop to be applied, 099 is what is used.
    Who makes/sells the dry-lube in aerosol form. And is there a mailorder way to get the bake on? (Grainger, etc?)

  3. #23
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    Last I bought I got from sandstrom inc port byron illinois.

    https://www.sandstromproducts.com/

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinzgauer View Post
    Who makes/sells the dry-lube in aerosol form. And is there a mailorder way to get the bake on? (Grainger, etc?)
    https://www.skygeek.com/sandstrom-pr...lubricant.html

    27A isn't listed in their current product catalog, 28A I'm guessing replaced it.

  5. #25
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    That is what they told me like two years ago that 28A replaced everything. I still have some 27A left and it was good and I painted a lot of stuf with it. I sprayed down a rifle with 28A and carry it five miles the the AM sweating all over the action and absolutely nothing happens. No rust and it doesn't wear off.

    I run 532 powder in all my engines , vehicles, generators, tractor etc.
    Last edited by Humpy70; 12-29-19 at 12:59.

  6. #26
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    Just averted a tragedy, found my quart of 28A and something had fallen on it and dented the lip around the top and I opened it up and I had about 1" deep black glob that was the same consistency as grease. I got hold of Sandstrom and they told me to put acetone in it and lo and behold it has brought it back. I used a bent wire mixer to get it all agitated again and it took about 45 minutes with variable speed electric drill to get it thinned down to where I could paint it on and yesterday evening I painted the action/barrel of a 1903 Springfield I have been working on here and there for over a year to make a SHTF/ travel rifle.

    It has a 20" barrel with AR birdcage on it and I have it bedded in a target style stock and have NC Star 2-7X pistol scope mounted with rear lens just forward of the front receiver ring which is perfect to get a full field of the scope.

    A friend had got it in a trade and let me have it and it was a real bear to get the internal areas of the action restored as somebody cut the trigger guard inletting 3/8" too deep and overcut the action area as well. I restored all of it with Marinetex. That stuff is terrific for sure.

    Next step is stand down the outside and refinish with semi gloss polyurethane and reinstall a new forward sling swivel so I can shoot prone with a sling.

    I mostly use reworked M1 Garand cotton sling hardware and I changed out the tired cotton and replaced it with the M16A1 rough weave nylon.

    I will probably zero it for 300 yards and then print it at 100 and 200 and 400 so I will never need to change the scope again. I will also get a zero/range for using the bottom heavy section of the duplex reticle and see what range it zeros at which I am figuring is going to be about 800 yards.
    Last edited by Humpy70; 01-09-20 at 08:37.

  7. #27
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    I got it zeroed for POA/POI at 300 yards and have to aim 6" low at 100 and 200 and it is on the money.

    I am going to add a tad more acetone and thin it a bit more. I now have it in a pickle jar with wide mouth so I can mix it with L loop in electric drill. it really worked out well with the 28A.

    https://i.imgur.com/VZd5zuEh.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/zR9RkASh.jpg
    Last edited by Humpy70; 02-09-20 at 17:12.

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