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Thread: S&W Model 19 cylinder stuck

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dienekes View Post
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod26886.aspx

    I have one of these; works fine. However you can get by with a small vise and leather pads to hold the tip of the rod while you tighten it (LH threads!) No need to over do it--just snug it up. I used to put some blue loc-tite on those threads and that was the end of that problem.
    Alternatively: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod26662.aspx

    The small vice is a good alternative as well.

    I think the key here is the 242.
    Using loctite is a bandaid for a worn extractor / extractor rod. Correct torque will prevent the rod from coming loose.

    It's also worth pointing out that these are not loctited from the factory, never have been AFAIK. And the only time they come loose is after someone removes them then doesn't torque them back down properly.
    Last edited by jh9; 06-07-19 at 14:30.

  2. #22
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    Dont think he was looking install a new ejector rod.

    I've actually had a lightly used Smith revolver loosen the ejector. Maybe they didnt get it good at the factory. I didnt feel like sending it in, so I 242'd it.

  3. #23
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    Had one recently that came loose that I know had not been tampered with previously. Fortunately the new design with the ball detent is less likely to lock up if the ejector is just starting to loosen.

    It may be worth mentioning that it is sometimes recommended to put -spent- shells in the chambers when tightening the ejector so as to provide added support for the extractor against the torque being applied.

  4. #24
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    It may be worth mentioning that it is sometimes recommended to put -spent- shells in the chambers when tightening the ejector so as to provide added support for the extractor against the torque being applied.[/QUOTE]

    As Wildcat said, always support the extractor with a couple of pieces of empty brass, to prevent damage to the extractor or locating pins.
    Billy

    US Army Retired, NRA Life member, M/C mechanic, Gunsmith

  5. #25
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    Wrap the ejector rod in heavy white tape, throw a set of vice grips on there, tighten.

  6. #26
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    I've had a few hundred S&Ws apart and when I tighten the ejector rod up I use a .223 case neck over the the end and pinch with pliers to tighten that way the soft brass doesn't mar the rod.

  7. #27
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    Left out that I always place empty cases in the chambers before I tighten the ejector rod.

  8. #28
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    I have a S&W 19 also. It was an officers gun and has wear and shot quite a bit. The only issue I ever had with mine is that the cylinder screw will work itís way loose after shooting awhile and make it hard to open as you stated. I simply tighten it up and itís fine again until the next time. I havenít shot it much is recent years. Was always going to see what could be done with it. Perhaps some of the lighter lock-tite that is used on knife bushings will work as it holds firmly in place, but not permeant.

  9. #29
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    K frames do this with a steady diet of hot 357. Tighten things back up and it will work again. (Yep, i had my panic with the stuck cylinder)

    Over time I got tired of having to tighten up every screw and retainer on the pistol after shooting and moved on.

    Maybe there is a locktight that will help, but its an issue.

    I'd still love to have a 65 or 66, but for the money, it's a pain.

    The worst was guys who tried to shoot IHMSA with 29s. Might not even make it though a match of 40 rounds full house without loosening up.

    Meanwhile a blackhawk will run with the same loads very long times (wanted to say indefinitely).

  10. #30
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    When you start screwing in ejector rod make sure to have two empty cases in cylinder.

    Also with cylinder open put on ejector rod stick out back of cylinder and watch how it comes out the front of the ejector rod in front. The inside rod should extend forward of the tube about .005" so the retaining plunger is pushed far enough forward to release it.

    I have also see cases stick in cylinders that have shot lots of 38 special ammo and the residue builds up on cylinder walls and when you run in 357 mag cases the crud binds up the case with the brass wanting to protude out the cylinder in the back and drag on the frame.

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