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Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor pet loads?

  1. #1
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    6.5 Creedmoor pet loads?

    I got very lucky with the Onyx/Kansaswoodsguy/markm .223 load that I use on my PRS Gas gun. I didn’t have to do load development at all and my SDs with 10 rounds are always <5 using cheap Lake City brass.

    I now have a 26” 6.5CM and was hoping to get equally lucky. I bought 500 140gr ELDM bullets and have an 8lb jug of H4350. It looks like I need to get Lapua brass and some CCI450s (which I use for my 223 load anyway)

    Is doing a ladder the only proven way to do this? I can shoot paper with a chrono at 300y. Should I keep the suppressor on when I chrono?

    It looks like 41.5-42.5 is where most people get their nodes with this combo but was hoping for a really proven performer.
    Why do the loudest do the least?

  2. #2
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    My experience loading for bolt action rifles leads me to advise you to perform a ladder test. If you can get throat measurements so you can determine a place to start seating depth that can also help.

    Otherwise you’re on the right track, I’ve found it easier to develop consistent loads in bolt guns and expect you will not find it terribly difficult either.

    If you plan to shoot suppressed in competition then I suggest you do load development with the suppressor attached.
    Last edited by Coal Dragger; 05-22-19 at 13:03.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    I got very lucky with the Onyx/Kansaswoodsguy/markm .223 load that I use on my PRS Gas gun. I didn’t have to do load development at all and my SDs with 10 rounds are always <5 using cheap Lake City brass.

    I now have a 26” 6.5CM and was hoping to get equally lucky. I bought 500 140gr ELDM bullets and have an 8lb jug of H4350. It looks like I need to get Lapua brass and some CCI450s (which I use for my 223 load anyway)

    Is doing a ladder the only proven way to do this? I can shoot paper with a chrono at 300y. Should I keep the suppressor on when I chrono?

    It looks like 41.5-42.5 is where most people get their nodes with this combo but was hoping for a really proven performer.

    If you intend to shoot it suppressed, yes it should be on there.

    You should work up your own load. The easiest way to find a node is purely velocity. Once your velocity nodes are discovered you can tweak it with seating depth and work between the nodes.


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  4. #4
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    I can't remember our load off the top of my head. I know we're running pretty hot (as usual) using that ADG? brass.

    But honestly we haven't had any load, factory or handload, that has impressed at 1300 yards. The low bc bullet S&B factory load shoots good some days. But we often end up saying "screw this", quit playing grab ass and fire up the 300 Win Mag.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

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    I have been enjoying 147gr ELDM's in Alpha SRP brass using 40.2gr of H4350 and CCI41 primers (just because I have a lot of these inventory).

    It is a moderate load at around 2650 fps in my 26" x-bolt.

    Premium brass is the key foundation for good performance in 6.5cm in my experience. Hornady factory brass wasn't cutting it for me.
    Last edited by B52U; 05-22-19 at 15:47.

  6. #6
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    140 ELD-M's with Hornady brass, 41.8 gr. RL16, Fed 210M gives me 2720 FPS from a 26" Bolt Gun. Low extreme spreads.

    One positive on the RL16 is temperature insensitivity. Chrono diff at 23 degrees and 85 degrees was virtually same.

    Got into this when 4350 was non-existent and SRP brass unobtainable.

  7. #7
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    I think this round may be one of the easiest loads to develop. I have yet to buy any ammo that didn't shoot MOA. You can buy :
    S&B , $11.00 for 20 rounds and it shoots MOA
    Hornnady Am Gunner, shoots MOA
    Marks loads shoots holes in holes.

    You will enjoy your 6.5 because it shoots flat and accurate, at least I would guess so. It doesn't give you the big audible off steel, but it does get there.

    Try some ADG brass, very nice stuff and beefier than Lapua but not as much as RWS. But weighs very consistent.

    Yes, chrono with suppressor, shoot with suppressor, eat dinner with suppressor.........

    PB
    Last edited by Pappabear; 05-22-19 at 17:35.
    "Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"

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    FWIW the charge range you mention is where you will, or at least should find your node. I would caution that I have run into pressure signs with Starline brass at the lower end of your suggested range. In Hornady brass I shoot 41.6 of H4350 from my 24" Wiseman barreled R700. No problem with 140 ELD-M's breaking the .5 MOA mark.

    You know that each barrel is a law unto itself, so verify pressure safe with a few lower than hoped from loads and then let the games begin.

    Good luck and enjoy the Creedmoor.
    Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it. Mark Twain
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I just ordered Lapua brass.

    My plan to start with is as follows:
    Lapua brass
    CCI450
    40.0-44.0 of H4350 in 0.2g increments
    140gr ELDM

    Full length size in RCBS with no expander ball
    Sinclair carbide expander mandrel (I aim for 0.002” tension)
    RCBS seater die with no crimp. For now I’ll just go with a popular mag length load as I don’t have a way to measure off the lands.

    I think that’s a good mix of not driving myself crazy and bankrupt but not wasting potential either. I did that with my .223 and get stupid low SDs. The only difference is I used an M die which they don’t appear to make for 6.5CM.

    ETA: I will develop a node using the Magnetospeed V3

    Pic of the rifle

    Last edited by Eurodriver; 05-23-19 at 10:46.

  10. #10
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    Don't forget to use a smaller diameter decapping pin with Lapua brass. Don't want to mess up your nice brass bending a decapping rod.

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