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Thread: Noveske Light Shorty Basic Upper: add a Magpul MOE hand guard?

  1. #1
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    Question Noveske Light Shorty Basic Upper: add a Magpul MOE hand guard?

    Which one of these will fit on a Noveske Light Shorty Basic Upper?

    https://www.magpul.com/firearms-acce...15-m4-m16-ar10

    I can't seem to resist the 20% sale right now. Memorial Day.

    I can get this:

    https://www.noveske.com/products/lig...ty-basic-upper

    for $750

    I am going to make a new SBR.

  2. #2
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    As long as the upper’s got a round handguard cap (should; pretty much all carbine gas guns do) the MOE SL will fit. It’s a great drop-in handguard, btw.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rockapede View Post
    As long as the upper’s got a round handguard cap (should; pretty much all carbine gas guns do) the MOE SL will fit. It’s a great drop-in handguard, btw.
    I've been doing some research.

    The Light Shorty has a sling swivel so it wont work...

    *Must be used with the triangular A2 front sight assembly, other gas blocks are not compatible. Factory sling swivel is not compatible and, if equipped, must be removed from the A2 front sight assembly.

    I think this one would be ok, right?

    https://www.magpul.com/products/moe-...uctColor=VO343

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    It's easy enough to drill out the sling swivel rivit. I don't remember what diameter drill bit to use. Drill just deep enough to weaken the rivit head, then drive it out with a hammer & punch. If the head doesn't break away with a couple of taps, drill a little bit deeper until it does. The Slimline handguard is enough of an improvement over the standard MOE handguard that it's worth it. If you decided to reinstall the swivel, it's easy enough to do.

    Colt 6933 as it came from the factory


    Colt 6933 with the Slimline handguard & stock. The extra length of the Slimline handguard has been much appreciated
    The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday

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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    It's easy enough to drill out the sling swivel rivit. I don't remember what diameter drill bit to use. Drill just deep enough to weaken the rivit head, then drive it out with a hammer & punch. If the head doesn't break away with a couple of taps, drill a little bit deeper until it does. The Slimline handguard is enough of an improvement over the standard MOE handguard that it's worth it. If you decided to reinstall the swivel, it's easy enough to do.

    Colt 6933 as it came from the factory


    Colt 6933 with the Slimline handguard & stock. The extra length of the Slimline handguard has been much appreciated
    Thanks!!!

  6. #6
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    Yup. I’ve ditched the swing swivel on both of the guns on which I installed the SL handguards. It’s very simple. Apologies, I didn’t think to mention it in my first post.

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    The rivit has two heads, one at each end. One end is the manufacturer's head. The other is the shop head which forms when the rivit is installed. The shop head has a dimple. Drill the shop head using a 1/8" drill bit. The dimple will help keep the drill bit centered as you drill. Take your time and go slow. Drill the rivit head a little at a time, then tap it with a hammer & 1/8" punch. The head should break away, then you can drive out the shank. If it doesn't break away with a couple of solid taps, drill just a little deeper until it does. You don't have to beat it to death, but give it a solid tap, like you're starting a nail. Take your time and go slow. You want to avoid drilling completely through the head and nicking the material around the rivit hole.
    The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday

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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    The rivit has two heads, one at each end. One end is the manufacturer's head. The other is the shop head which forms when the rivit is installed. The shop head has a dimple. Drill the shop head using a 1/8" drill bit. The dimple will help keep the drill bit centered as you drill. Take your time and go slow. Drill the rivit head a little at a time, then tap it with a hammer & 1/8" punch. The head should break away, then you can drive out the shank. If it doesn't break away with a couple of solid taps, drill just a little deeper until it does. You don't have to beat it to death, but give it a solid tap, like you're starting a nail. Take your time and go slow. You want to avoid drilling completely through the head and nicking the material around the rivit hole.
    That was very helpful!

    I just love that magpul hand guard.

    I'm still considering but I really want that upper.

  9. #9
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    Mistwolf, any heat issues with the SL compared to stock or regular MOE handguards?
    RLTW

    “What’s New” button, but without GD: https://www.m4carbine.net/search.php...new&exclude=60 , courtesy of ST911.

    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
    That was very helpful!

    I just love that magpul hand guard.

    I'm still considering but I really want that upper.
    Get the upper. Get the handguards. Go shoot. I've put a lot of rounds through AR shorty uppers with the Slimline handguards and have yet to find myself wishing I'd gotten something different. Life is too short to not get what you really want

    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Mistwolf, any heat issues with the SL compared to stock or regular MOE handguards?
    None. I've run ARs equipped with Slimline handguards and standard MOE handguards until the barrel assemblies were hot enough to raise blisters. Both handguards do an excellent job protecting the shooter from a hot barrel. The Slimline has the added benefit of providing protection from the hot gas block.
    The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday

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