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Thread: My reliability upgrades for the AR-15:

  1. #11
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    deleted
    Last edited by TomMcC; 07-28-19 at 19:58.

  2. #12
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    You have made no improvements to your rifle.

    In honor of IG- as most of these I learned from his posts over the years-

    A real reliability imporovement list for a Sport would probably look like this-

    1. Remove and discard the YFS chinesium gas key screw, replace with Grade 8 US made screws, apply Permatex, tourque and stake properly.

    2. Verify RE castle nut torque, and stake properly.

    3. Discard extractor spring, replace with Colt gold spring and buffer.

    4. Remove and discard one steel buffer weight, and replace with tungsten.

    5. Check disconnector geometry, verify "fire on release" condition does not exist.

    6. Verify chamber geometry with guauges- ream as needed with Ned's reamer. (might be easier to just shoot 1k rounds, and if you dont have popped primers chances are your chamber is fine)

    8. Verify barrel nut torque

    9. Discard 6061 aluminum charging handle, replace with known quality 7075 forged.

    EDIT TO ADD-

    Don't be tempted by Gamer Garbage, don't waste your time with anti-rotation pins, BAD levers, clip on, strap on, Instagram garbage, "silent" buffers, etc.
    Last edited by BFS; 07-03-19 at 11:35.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodan1957 View Post
    A. BCM large latch ambi charging handle: IMproves charging and extraction
    B. Toolcraft Nickel Boron BCG: reduces corrosion and easier to clean
    C. Strike industries extended rear take down pin: FN-FAL -style push pushbutton simple to clean and maintain riflr
    D. Hex mag G2: works like a charm in my M&P 15 sport 2.

    With my M&P 15 Sport 2.

    Discuss....
    I wouldn’t have done any of this. Only item B has anything to do with reliability, maybe. I own several rifles with fancy coatings in them, but I would not swap out a working carrier in a factory rifle. That money is better spent on ammo. Every factory rifle I own has stock carriers. And Colt and FN M4A1s run, no problem.

    Welcome to M4C. Throw some oil on that hooker and go shoot.


    TomMcC, I’ve not had any issues with any NiB products that I own. I’ve got a bolt thats 10 years old and has many thousands of rounds on it. That said the consensus seems to be that it is inferior, so I tend to buy other coatings when I “build” (assemble) new rifles.
    Last edited by 1168; 07-04-19 at 06:16. Reason: Syntax

  4. #14
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    A few quick takeaway's from a Mike Pannone article;

    AR's rely heavily on Springs and Lube. Make sure the buffer, mag and extractor springs are all in tip top shape. If I didnt buy a BCM BCG, I put the BCM extractor enhancement kit in the BCG. I only run Pmags or GI and if a mag has spring or feedlip issues it gets crushed and thrown in the trash. Use a quality buffer spring and a heavier buffer. I prefer H2.

    For inspection purposes make sure the BCG can stand on the bolt face without retracting. This test ensures that your gas rings are tight enough. After a simple gas ring check all you need is a thin coating of lube. AR's run better wet.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFS View Post
    You have made no improvements to your rifle.

    In honor of IG- as most of these I learned from his posts over the years-

    A real reliability imporovement list for a Sport would probably look like this-

    1. Remove and discard the YFS chinesium gas key screw, replace with Grade 8 US made screws, apply Permatex, tourque and stake properly.

    2. Verify RE castle nut torque, and stake properly.

    3. Discard extractor spring, replace with Colt gold spring and buffer.

    4. Remove and discard one steel buffer weight, and replace with tungsten.

    5. Check disconnector geometry, verify "fire on release" condition does not exist.

    6. Verify chamber geometry with guauges- ream as needed with Ned's reamer. (might be easier to just shoot 1k rounds, and if you dont have popped primers chances are your chamber is fine)

    8. Verify barrel nut torque

    9. Discard 6061 aluminum charging handle, replace with known quality 7075 forged.

    EDIT TO ADD-

    Don't be tempted by Gamer Garbage, don't waste your time with anti-rotation pins, BAD levers, clip on, strap on, Instagram garbage, "silent" buffers, etc.
    Points 1 and 6: if you are buying stuff from Ned, might as well get his awesome carrier key screws.
    RLTW

    “What’s New” button, but without GD: https://www.m4carbine.net/search.php...new&exclude=60 , courtesy of ST911.

    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Points 1 and 6: if you are buying stuff from Ned, might as well get his awesome carrier key screws.
    I'd like to echo this advice.

  7. #17
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    OP,
    Welcome to M4C. There is a ton of knowledge here, though as SOLGW mentioned, we just lost perhaps the most knowledgeable member of the forums.

    I think you will find more success by asking questions, rather than beginning with why you already made purchases.

    If you ask a question, be prepared to get a response that includes links to threads 40 pages long, as well as the comment “did you use the search function?”

    You purchased an entry level fun gun. At that price point, you really do need to follow the advice of BFS and do some very basic checks.

    A. BCM large latch ambi charging handle: IMproves charging and extraction
    B. Toolcraft Nickel Boron BCG: reduces corrosion and easier to clean
    C. Strike industries extended rear take down pin: FN-FAL -style push pushbutton simple to clean and maintain riflr
    D. Hex mag G2: works like a charm in my M&P 15 sport 2.
    The BCM latch isn’t necessarily an reliability improvement, unless the OEM piece used inferior steel, as another poster referenced. I have one.
    The Toolcraft NiB BCG isn’t necessarily a reliability improvement; you still need to oil it. However, the Toolcraft may be constructed better overall in other ways. As others noted, concerns have existed about the coating’s durability. However, it’s still likely an overall general improvement over the stock BCG. I have one.
    The takedown pin was probably a regression rather than an improvement. I promise you stock takedown pins are fine. That’s a solid loss of money.
    HexMags have a worse reputation here than NiB coatings. Yours may be fine; however, Okay, PSA, Magpul, Lancer, and Troy are all unquestionably better-respected. No need to go sell the Hex, but you really should purchase a known quantity if you consider this to be a weapon that needs to be reliable.

    Here’s what you definitely need:
    Lubricant
    Ammo

    Here’s what you should do:
    Lubricate it
    Shoot it
    Decide if you want a sling

    Later, if you genuinely wants to maximize reliability, ask on the forum. Most likely, you’ll be given one or two ideas...because the gun is inherently reliable already.
    Last edited by JediGuy; 07-03-19 at 13:06.

  8. #18
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    Part of me thinks this is a troll thread. The other part of me wonders how many rounds does the OP have through the gun? Did those parts break or underperform during a training class?

    I've broken/bent inferior 6061 handles before, so I think the charging handle was a good buy.

  9. #19
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    Pretty much IBTL, god bless him.

    Quote Originally Posted by SOLGW View Post
    God Bless Iraqgunz.
    I'm glad he didn't have to see this post.

    :-(

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  10. #20
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    I studied the AR-15 from 1980 to 2014 when I decided to adopt one. Unfortunately, it was M&P 15 sport 2. However my upgrades have improved its functioning[about 300 rounds since 2016]. I've been shooting semiautos since 1993 and love my WASR-10, 1911A1, and XD 9 Mod 2. I did much research online before I did same upgrades, too.

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