Barrel scraping inside the slide?

[JDH1]

It looks like minimal wear from what could be a variety of reasons -- loose linkage fit, perhaps rough-finished lug seats in the slide.

If you look very carefully you can see a very fine line between the "O" in .45 AUTO and the leading edge of the ejection port. You have a two-piece barrel -- typically a mass-produced item to make cheaper than a one-piece barrel from a forging.

Not a common failure, but it can happen:

Attachment 58093

JB Weld?

So the friction welding process is not as fool proof as claimed. I feel better now for buying the Colt instead of the SA.

[gaijin]

The 2 piece barrel thing has been around a long time.
FN (“Browning”) used them in their Hi-Powers for ever, never heard of issues with theirs coming apart or cratering like S&A.

[gaijin]

LOL NO SHIIIII... Thanks gaijin... Thought it looked like cardboard or paper... still LOL

The silver bit (last photo) is the recoil spring guide rod.

[Ttwwaack]

There could be a couple of problems. 1911s aren't plug n play so, you have alittle homework. It appears a tolerance stack has been introduced by the new frame barrel bed. Is the barrel the same barrel that came with the slide (that barrel has been fitted to the slide) from the factory? Before firing further range time....

First, check barrel lugs and slide lugs and lightly deburr. I mean no more than .002-3 at a 45°angle. If the interior is cerrokoted or there are obvious high spots on the slide lugs they will need to be knocked down either by lapping or sanding with turned cylinder (can't remember dimension) and wet dry 220/320.

Second, does the slide barrel fully lock up? Does the slide overhang the rear of the frame, is the slide stop tight or loose with the slide all the way foward. Sharpie the barrel lugs, reassemble and see if the slide stop is going all the way back on the lugs. Link too long?

Third, check you barrel/slide clearance and timing with Schuemann's installation instructions and that should give you an idea of where the problem is and if you or your smiff have the knowledge/ability to fix it. This will identify clearances that are nessessary and where the tight spots are. If after reading the instructions and re-reading till you fully comprehend and absorb the test steps, seek out a 1911 smiff who is well versed. If you feel confident in your understanding, it is kinda a tedious fitting session. Basically, you are going to check that the vertical impact stop distance, barrel bed height and barrel to slide clearance once the barrel is resting on the barrel bed.

Generally, production 1911s are no where near the Schumann standard but are loose enough to get by. Once you start start tighten up a 1911eliminating the loose tolerances, timing and clearancing become more critical.

Link to rabbit hole:

https://www.m1911.org/testkit.htma