Help in Tucson with Buffer tube

[msedward43]

I have a weird "request" or "situation. Long story short I moved a few months back and in the process I can't find my dang lower receiver block and I ended up dropping my vice and cracking it in half during the move. No biggie, I'm mostly buying Sionics gutless lowers anymore as they do the work for me except for things I WANT to customize and install (fcg, furniture etc). Now, here's the rub. I have an Aero lower that I installed a PSA lpk in some time back (it's just used in conjunction with a CMMG 22lr bolt as a plinking rifle for my wife). Now, on this particular lower I had accidentally canted the buffer tube when installing slighly (it was my one of my first lowers about 2 years ago when I wasn't as careful as I am now) and it's been bugging me, so I said to myself "hey, I'll just break the staking on this, realign, and then re torque down, easy fix". So I grab my trusty magpul wrench, break the staking and get ready to go put it in my vice to re-assemble when it clicks in my head "wait, I BROKE my vice 2 months ago!!!!" and without 3 arms it's REALLY hard to get the buffer tube 100% timed straight without a 3rd arm or the use of a vice and block to make sure it doesn't rotate under torque. So now I'm stuck with a lower and buffer tube assembly that's not put together and I'm out the proper tools to hold it in place so I can install properly besides my magpul wrench and me cussing at myself for forgetting

what I was HOPING, was that a Tucson area M4carbine member with the vice and block would be kind enough to give me a hand reinstalling the buffer tube (had to go order a new back plate and castle nut as I don't like re-using them) PROPERLY, as I'm currently in between vices (and I can't find that dang bev block, it got lost somewhere in the move). I'd be happy to bring the beer or take em out to lunch as thanks for giving me a hand tightening it down properly

[JulyAZ]

You don’t need a vice.

You can do it with your bare hands honestly and just torque it with a wrench then stake it.

And what to you mean you aren’t getting it timed? You rear end plate does that for you. You don’t have to time it. The buffer tube and end plate work to go to always get it perfectly timed.

Go to any shop and I’m willing to bet most will do it for you for free.

Diamondback if you on the east side, 2nd amendment for central ask for Steve C, Disruptive Products on the west side ask for Larry.

Or just call Sionics on Monday and I bet Steve-O will help you out.



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[msedward43]

the indexing tab on the end plate and the notch on the buffer tube almost NEVER is 100% perfect at lining up by itself. there's some slop or "play" between them. that means you can clock the tube 2-3 degrees either direction of center if you center the tube and don't hold onto it as you're torquing down due to the wiggle room.

[boss_hawg]

the indexing tab on the end plate and the notch on the buffer tube almost NEVER is 100% perfect at lining up by itself. there's some slop or "play" between them. that means you can clock the tube 2-3 degrees either direction of center if you center the tube and don't hold onto it as you're torquing down due to the wiggle room.

There is supposed to be some play in this arrangement until the castle nut goes on. The castle nut is what holds the end plate and buffer tube in place.

[msedward43]

There is supposed to be some play in this arrangement until the castle nut goes on. The castle nut is what holds the end plate and buffer tube in place.

correct. I was just explaining why you need to manually adjust the tube and hold it in place while tightening to keep it from adjusting to one side vs. letting the notch align the tube FOR you

[boss_hawg]

Buffer tube and end plate from a reputable manufacturer + proper application of torque to spec should solve your problems.

[msedward43]

Buffer tube and end plate from a reputable manufacturer + proper application of torque to spec should solve your problems.

I may be miscommunicating, if so I apologize, but I do use reputable parts for my buffer assemblies. Sionics, BCM, SOLGW, Daniel Defense, Damage Industries. As I was saying, this is an ASSEMBLY issue, not one of specs. This last one was with a Sionics kit. the indexing tab on the plate fits into the notch on the buffer tube, but there is some slight side to side play. when you torque down to proper specs, the rotation of the castle nut will pull the buffer tube around until it hits the other end of the "notch" that the indexing tab of the end plate rides in, allowing it to cant the tube a few degrees. ANY buffer tube will do this with an end plate notch. Proper assembly requires you to hold the buffer tube in the center while your crank down on the nut, otherwise the tube will naturally rotate slightly 1-3 degrees (on an average tube) until it bottoms out the notch on the side of the tube threads... without my vice to hold it in place, I can't hold onto the tube and crank down at the same time, so it tends to over rotate by a hair. This is the problem I'm running into.

[CPM]

Why are you sweating “1-3 degrees” on a plinking 22 upper? How do you even notice that? What negative effect does this have on the performance of the tool?

Looks like you have three options above this post already. Enjoy.

[msedward43]

Why are you sweating “1-3 degrees” on a plinking 22 upper? How do you even notice that? What negative effect does this have on the performance of the tool?

Looks like you have three options above this post already. Enjoy.

apologies if I came off as being anal retentive. I'm just a slight perfectionist when doing my lower builds and without my normal tools am not able to get it to my normal quality levels. I still have Will Larson's (Iraqgunz) voice stuck in my head from a few years back when I took his armorer's course saying "there's the right way to install something, then there's all other ways" and that amplifies my perfectionist nature. apologies if it came off as argumentative.

and as for the "how do you even notice"... it's a curse. I can see cant on the tubes when inspecting starting at about 1.5 degrees. When you've seen it before, you can never unsee it.

[Dennis]

correct. I was just explaining why you need to manually adjust the tube and hold it in place while tightening to keep it from adjusting to one side vs. letting the notch align the tube FOR you

I agree with you that to get it all visually straight you usually need to align while tightening. However you can do it without a vise if you "attempt" to hold the extension counter-clockwise during torquing and hope for a bit of luck where it ends up and retrying. The side of a cabinet and your elbow can help too.

Good Luck!

Dennis.

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