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Thread: Zero preference for 11.5” 5.56

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldState View Post
    I’ve been intrigued by the 36 yard zero since seeing this video. Starts talking about it at 3:45

    The CD makes it pretty easy to grasp why he chooses the 36 yard zero. Well illustrated...

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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsbhike View Post
    What are the criteria for the MPBR? Is it just a general desire to hit a certain diameter target and how far away can that be achieved without adjusting point of aim?

    Or is there something different?
    that's pretty much it. i've run a couple of my rifles through the calculator and it comes out pretty close to the 50/225 zero.

  3. #33
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    50m for all my 5.56s ranging from 8.5" to 16". Same for 9" 300blk. These have either hard sights, red dots, prism scopes. One exception is 100m for scoped 20" 5.56. Pretty simple stuff with half a brain, consistent ammo and range time.

  4. #34
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    50/200 for all guns unless using a BDC optic, in which case I follow the instruction manual.

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  5. #35
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    I zero at 100m for all of my rifles.

    Back up irons get an initial zero at 50m, then fine tuned and verified at 200m.

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  6. #36
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    I prefer 200m zero.

  7. #37
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    My 11.5" is zeroed at 50.
    Rifle/carbine irons and RDS, all zeroed at 50.
    Optics zeroed at manufacturer recommended zero, for the one I have, at 100.

  8. #38
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    I do 50 yards for any gun with RDS and 100 yards for any gun with a magnified optic, unless the optic manufacturer specifies to use something else.
    Steve

    Disclaimer: I am employed by Shadow Systems. My posts on this site are my own and do not necessarily reflect the views of my employer.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eurodriver View Post
    55gr out of a 10.5” drops 3.5” at 200y with a 100y zero. That’s certainly still “center mass”.

    The benefit with a 100y zero is that you always hold over, never under. This is important when people are shooting at you and a range finder isn’t a smart thing to be looking through.

    50y zeroes are only useful with irons.



    This mofo shoots.
    WISDOM.

  10. #40
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    I was doing 50yards with irons and/or red dot for awhile, then gradually transitioned to 100yds.
    I ended up zeroing my 10.3" SBR at 50yds though and am considering going back to that for my other guns too.

    On a few occasions I've taken guns that had the irons zeroed at 100 yds, and grouping well at that range, and shot them at 50yds, only to find the windage was now off at the closer distance. It led me to wonder if my not-so-good eyesight was somehow distorting the perceived relationship between the sights and target at 100yds and was giving me sort of a "false zero". It led me to think that perhaps going back to 50yd would give me a more "true" zero with irons.

    With Aimpoints, I suffer from the "blob" effect when viewing the dot. It's most noticeable inside, where it looks like a jagged starburst but even outdoors in daylight the dot is still a little bit distorted. Even with the brightness turned down to the lowest setting that is still visible I have found that at 100yds trying to place shots exactly where I want them on a 6" or 3" bullseye with an even slightly distorted dot can skew the point of impact. So I've begun doing my Aimpoint zeroing at 50yds again.

    As far as magnified optics go, I generally follow the manufacturer recommendation, with the exception of my Steiner P4Xi, which is apparently supposed to be zeroed at 200yds. Not having access to a 200 yd range, I first sighted in at 50, and then later transitioned to a 100yd zero. Although currently I don't have that particular scope on a gun at the moment.

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