KAC URX4 QD cup removal

[Leonidas24]

Without explaining everything that's happened in the last two years I have found myself in the precarious position of starting over -- basically everything. Short version: False criminal accusations, property taken by ex-wife, divorce, everything sold. Attempting to recover anything has proven fruitless as my firearms, gear, ammo, spare mags, tools, everything, was sold without my ability to retaliate and the judge presiding over the divorce granted my ex-wife defacto everything other than my clothes, truck, and an empty house that I was no longer able to keep up payments on. At this point; however, things are improving and while I've made no headway in recovering anything that was sold (about $30,000 in furniture, firearms, etc) I am at least in a new career that pays well enough for me to start over without too much pain. With that said my first AR is going to be a one-and-done type rifle where no expense is spared.

I have a KAC URX4 10.75" MLOK on order that should be getting delivered next Tuesday, and after that it's getting shipped back out to be anodized DD brown (along with a set of in-the-white forged receivers in FDE.) The QD cups on either side of the handguard cannot be in place when it goes for anodizing though. If anyone has any insight as to how to remove these I'd appreciate it.

[Sry0fcr]

Sorry man, I don't. But I've never seen a re-ano job look "good". Consider Cerakote.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[Leonidas24]

Sorry man, I don't. But I've never seen a re-ano job look "good". Consider Cerakote.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

That's not my experience, and as far as cost goes the ano job on the receivers and handguard are going to cost about the same as a cerakote job.

[themonk]

That's not my experience, and as far as cost goes the ano job on the receivers and handguard are going to cost about the same as a cerakote job.

Who is doing the ano if you don't mind me asking?

[scottryan]

Whats wrong with a factory SR-15 MOD 2 rifle in the first place?

Stripping and reanodizing is going to open up all the holes (like your MLOK slots) and make things fit loose.

[Leonidas24]

Whats wrong with a factory SR-15 MOD 2 rifle in the first place?

Stripping and reanodizing is going to open up all the holes (like your MLOK slots) and make things fit loose.

I considered an SR-15 Mod2 SBR but instead opted to not wait 12+ months for the Form 4 to be approved. The rifle being built is based around a Centurion Arms 12.5" CHF barrel and I vastly prefer the 30-45 day turnaround time on Form 1s right now. As for the anodizing I don't feel it's any different than blasting off the black anodizing in preparation for cerakote, as H-series cerakote has a cured thickness of .001-.002 inches. Type 3 anodizing which is what I'm opting for - uniformity and color matching be damned - will be roughly the same thickness when complete. I also highly doubt the stripping and refinishing process on the MLOK slots will cause such a change in dimensions that it will cause an issue of fitment for a Scout light mount and MAYBE an Arisaka finger stop - everything else will be mounted to the top rail.

[Hammer_Man]

I have a KAC URX4 10.75" MLOK on order that should be getting delivered next Tuesday, and after that it's getting shipped back out to be anodized DD brown (along with a set of in-the-white forged receivers in FDE.) The QD cups on either side of the handguard cannot be in place when it goes for anodizing though. If anyone has any insight as to how to remove these I'd appreciate it.

I'm pretty sure KAC designed those things to never come out. As Sry0fcr stated, Cerakote may be an easier/cheaper solution.

[titsonritz]

The QD cups on either side of the handguard cannot be in place when it goes for anodizing though.

Why not?

[Leonidas24]

Why not?

Because the result of anodizing steel is iron oxide. Rust.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[fledge]

My favorite rifle on Instagram has a re-anodized KAC rail. Owner/photographer: @benchau.