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Thread: KAC URX4 QD cup removal

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    Whats wrong with a factory SR-15 MOD 2 rifle in the first place?

    Stripping and reanodizing is going to open up all the holes (like your MLOK slots) and make things fit loose.
    I considered an SR-15 Mod2 SBR but instead opted to not wait 12+ months for the Form 4 to be approved. The rifle being built is based around a Centurion Arms 12.5" CHF barrel and I vastly prefer the 30-45 day turnaround time on Form 1s right now. As for the anodizing I don't feel it's any different than blasting off the black anodizing in preparation for cerakote, as H-series cerakote has a cured thickness of .001-.002 inches. Type 3 anodizing which is what I'm opting for - uniformity and color matching be damned - will be roughly the same thickness when complete. I also highly doubt the stripping and refinishing process on the MLOK slots will cause such a change in dimensions that it will cause an issue of fitment for a Scout light mount and MAYBE an Arisaka finger stop - everything else will be mounted to the top rail.
    In heavenly love abiding, no change my heart shall fear;
    and safe is such confiding, for nothing changes here:
    the storm may roar without me, my heart may low be laid;
    but God is round about me, and can I be dismayed?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merle View Post
    They come out. They are screwed in from the inside of the handguard. Install a qd sling swivel in one and turn it hard in the clock wise direction and it will break free. Might have to put a little heat to them if they have some sort of thread locker on them. Mine came out with not much effort or heat though.
    Worked perfectly. It did take a little heat but after they broke loose I was able to remove them with a punch and light taps from a hammer from the inside of the handguard once the QD swivel bottomed out against the outside surface.
    In heavenly love abiding, no change my heart shall fear;
    and safe is such confiding, for nothing changes here:
    the storm may roar without me, my heart may low be laid;
    but God is round about me, and can I be dismayed?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leonidas24 View Post
    I considered an SR-15 Mod2 SBR but instead opted to not wait 12+ months for the Form 4 to be approved. The rifle being built is based around a Centurion Arms 12.5" CHF barrel and I vastly prefer the 30-45 day turnaround time on Form 1s right now. As for the anodizing I don't feel it's any different than blasting off the black anodizing in preparation for cerakote, as H-series cerakote has a cured thickness of .001-.002 inches. Type 3 anodizing which is what I'm opting for - uniformity and color matching be damned - will be roughly the same thickness when complete. I also highly doubt the stripping and refinishing process on the MLOK slots will cause such a change in dimensions that it will cause an issue of fitment for a Scout light mount and MAYBE an Arisaka finger stop - everything else will be mounted to the top rail.
    Or, ya know, you could have just bought a KAC lower and upper separately.



    Folks really over think this stuff


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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leonidas24 View Post
    I considered an SR-15 Mod2 SBR but instead opted to not wait 12+ months for the Form 4 to be approved. The rifle being built is based around a Centurion Arms 12.5" CHF barrel and I vastly prefer the 30-45 day turnaround time on Form 1s right now. As for the anodizing I don't feel it's any different than blasting off the black anodizing in preparation for cerakote, as H-series cerakote has a cured thickness of .001-.002 inches. Type 3 anodizing which is what I'm opting for - uniformity and color matching be damned - will be roughly the same thickness when complete. I also highly doubt the stripping and refinishing process on the MLOK slots will cause such a change in dimensions that it will cause an issue of fitment for a Scout light mount and MAYBE an Arisaka finger stop - everything else will be mounted to the top rail.


    Cerakote does not surface harden the aluminum.

    And yes it will change the dimensions. It will permanently open all the holes about 0.003"
    Last edited by scottryan; 09-09-19 at 16:30.
    "Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    Cerakote does not surface harden the aluminum.

    And yes it will change the dimensions. It will permanently open all the holes about 0.003"
    I messaged the folks that did the re-anodizing on the rail above just to gauge them and to see if they even care about the tolerance issues that can arise from stripping and re-anodizing. I asked them about loss of material and if they would build up the coating to lessen the gap. They just replied "don't worry about it, not that much material is lost".

    No thank you. Especially if you're just going to play it off like losing 0.003" is no big deal.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by patriot_man View Post
    I messaged the folks that did the re-anodizing on the rail above just to gauge them and to see if they even care about the tolerance issues that can arise from stripping and re-anodizing. I asked them about loss of material and if they would build up the coating to lessen the gap. They just replied "don't worry about it, not that much material is lost".

    No thank you. Especially if you're just going to play it off like losing 0.003" is no big deal.
    Who did the anodizing? Because AFAIK the guy who built that never revealed who did the work.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    In heavenly love abiding, no change my heart shall fear;
    and safe is such confiding, for nothing changes here:
    the storm may roar without me, my heart may low be laid;
    but God is round about me, and can I be dismayed?

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